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I did some searching and found a couple of threads about how to change the seats in a 2011/2012 Mustang but didn't have all the info at one place. Plus, pictures were lacking so I decided to do a DIY on how to install aftermarket seats in the 2011-2012 Mustang.

I choose to install Corbeau CR1 with the Microsuede in my 2012 Mustang GT. I do track events throughout the summer and needed a seat that would hold me more then the stock seat does. (Pictures show the passenger seat since it is harder to install then the driver's seat due to the bladder installed in the seat)

Remove:
Step 1: Remove the four bolts that hold the seat in place. You will notice that the back bolts are covered by a piece of plasic. To remove the plastic, simply slided them back towards the rear of the car. Once the four bolts are removed, you can rock the seat foward to disconnect the power and airbag wires. Once those are disconnected, carefully remove the seat.

Step 2: Once you get the seat out, you will have to disconnect all the wires from the motors/heat seats/etc. This is a time consuming part but take your time because you don't want to break anything in the process. I started with the main power connector and worked back towards all the different components. I found that using a knife, screw driver and wire cutters (for the small pieces of plastic) worked good. You need to transfer the wiring harness into the new seat.

Step 3: Disconnect the seatbelt wires and remove the seatbelt from the seat.

Step 4: Remove the seat position sensor located in the front on the side. It is pointed down towards the rail and is magnetized. This needs to go into the new seat.

Step 5: (Passenger seat only) The passenger seat has a bladder that is located in the bottom of the seat. This needs to be removed carefully and installed into the new seat for the system to work. What I found that worked was disconnecting the three wires that run from the front of the seat to the rear that act as a spring when you sit on them. If you disconnect them at the back of the seat, you can position them out of the way to get access to the bladder. You also need to cut off the green tabs that hold onto the bladder located at the front of the seat. Once I disconnected the wires and cut off the tabs, I was able to work back and forth with the bladder pulling it towards the rear of the seat to remove. It took some work to make sure it didn't rip/tear but it came out.

Install:
Step 6: (Passenger seat only) Install the bladder into the new seat that you have. I positioned my like the stock seat and did between the bottom wires/springs and the padding directly above. For my seats, I had to take off the metal rings that hold the fabric on the seat so I had a enough room to slide the bladder between them. I also put the front of the bladder tucked between the top and the bottom of the submarine hole. Once the bladder was in place, I re-installed the metal pieces holding the fabric.

Step 7: Install the wiring harness into the bottom of the seat. I used plenty of zip-ties to secure the wires to the bottom of the seat. Start off by pulling out the power supply wires, seatbelt wires and seat position wires knowing they have to be connected to other items under the seat. Then connect the bladder back up to the wiring harness and zip-tie the rest of the items to the bottom of the seat. Keep in mind that the bladder works off pressure that goes to the sensor so don't zip-tie that line tightly to anything or you might run into issues with it not working. Once you get all the wires connected under the seat, you can fold the flap back over the wires.

Step 8: At this stage, I installed the seat rails to the seat. Be sure to pull the wiring harness through the bottom center and not to smash them between the seat and the rails.

Step 9: Install the seatbelt to the frame/rails of the seat. Once connected, plug back in the wiring to the wiring harness and secure with a zip-tie.

Step 10: Install the seat position sensor. I stalled my to the bottom of the seat pointed at the seat rail but I am not sure if you need to do this or just have it connected to the system.

Step 11: Make a 2 Ohm resistor to plug into the airbag terminal that is located in the car under the seat (yellow plug) to trick the system into thinking the airbag is there. I bought the plug (Part # XF2Z-14B022-AA) from Ford that directly plugs into that plug but found out that was for the previous Mustang and the resistance is different. What you have to do is replace the resistor with a 2 Ohm resistor or two 1 Ohm resistors ran in series. I cut the back off of the plug I bought with a dremel then cut out the resistor. I then soldered the resistors together and then to the yellow plug wires to make it a true plug and play. Make sure to use electrical tape to cover up the exposed wires and then secure it better to the yellow housing. Once complete, plug it into the other yellow connector located under the seat in the car.

Step 12: Place the new seat into the vehicle to be re-installed. I found it easier to set the seat more forward then where the bolts were so I could rock the seat foward to connect the power. Once the power is connected, I picked the seat back up and placed it over the rear bolts that stick up. Install the four bolts that connect the seat to the car and you are done.


Attached are plenty of pictures showing the process and each step.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I had to resize the photos.
 

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Exactly how I did mine last month, same seats as well. Awesome write up, I just didn't have time to do a DIY. I was actually able to get the bladder in the new seat without removing the rings. Took a while but was worth it. I also installed the 3 point retractable harness. That install was easy but had to remove a lot of the interior rear panels to access the stock mounting point.

Does your "Passenger air bag off" light in the Dom cluster stay lit until someone sits in it then it turns off? If so u found a fix but still need to do it myself. Apparently when switching the bladder you need to reset the pressure sending system. Reason being that the bladder is under more pressure in the new seats then it was in the old so it thinks a small child is in it. By reseting it, it now starts fresh. Either way the system works fine but normally that light is only on when some small is sitting there.

Once again, great write up.


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Thanks for the concise "how to"!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh yeah, forgot that add that, need to go to the dealer to reset the bladder sensor. Pretty much they zero it out. Right now my light is on which means it senses anything from a couple pounds up to 40 lbs. At 40lbs I am pretty sure the light goes out. That is my first write-up of any project I have done. Been doing work on my cars for some 13 years now, maybe I should do more write-ups.... lol
 

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Oh yeah, forgot that add that, need to go to the dealer to reset the bladder sensor. Pretty much they zero it out. Right now my light is on which means it senses anything from a couple pounds up to 40 lbs. At 40lbs I am pretty sure the light goes out. That is my first write-up of any project I have done. Been doing work on my cars for some 13 years now, maybe I should do more write-ups.... lol
Sit in it yourself and see if it goes out, it should. So how do you like them? I love them though it takes getting use to not being able to move your legs around freely.


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Mike
Nice job, I have the Ford resistors for my Sparco install, Drivers side only so no bladder to swap. Thanks for the tip on the 2 ohm resistor, would have made me crazy when it didn't turn the light off. Guess I have to make a trip to Radio Shack.
Steve
 

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The system looks for 1.7 to 2.5 ohms.


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Discussion Starter #9
When I seat in the passenger seat the light does go out, fyi. Thanks to Devildog1679 for figuring out the resistors for me!
 

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What is this?

GREAT GREAT GREAT! Thanks to devildog and you i can finally do this! Thank you both! Im just in my garage right now doing it! Got the bladder out in seconds thanks to the guide. I will make the resistors in a few days. DevilDog was helpful enough to show me.

ALLTHOUGH i just ran into a "problem" Please see pictures i uploaded. In my GT500 (2010) passenger i have that thing! Its kinda mounted with some WEIRD bolts that i cannot remove with regular tools. What is it exactly? Something about that OCS? What does it really?

What shall i do? Can i drive the car without it with my aftermarket seats and WITHOUT have any OBC warning?

Or. Can i try removing it from the seat, mount them on the aftermarket, connect and problem solved?

Cant wait to hear from you guys!

Thanks again.

Pictures:
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
 

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Thanks for the guide!

Thanks to you and devildog i managed to swap my seats!! :bigthumbsup :worship

Allthough i have this under my 2010 GT500 passenger seat:

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Seems like basic tools cant remove it? or?

And what is it exactly? Some kind of OCS that devildog mentioned in his other thread?
And IF i manage to remove it, will i just need to install it on my aftermaket passenger seat?

Little more interested in how to get it of/remove it. Its stuck with some funny bolts and maybe glue?

Regards
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread but this is what followed for my seat install and its actually exactly the same for the 2007 Mustang.

Few notes:

1. Resistor Plug Part # XF2Z-14B022-AA does not work for the 2007 Mustang either, the resistance is too high (IIRC 6.8~7 Ohms)
So I bought 2 Ohm 1/2 Watt 5% Resistors from Amazon (no local stores IE Radioshack carries 2 Ohms) and did the same mod as the OP.

2. Both Driver & Passenger side need the 2 Ohms or else you will get Airbag light 23 for Pssngr SRS short circuit or 22 for Drvr SRS short circuit.

Now finally my airbag dash light is off. If you correct it correctly with the right resistor the light will go off by itself no need to reset anything.
 

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Thanks for sharing, awesome pictures!
 

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Thanks so much for this excellent how-to with pictures! Just installed Corbeau GTS II seats in my 2014. Waiting on the plugs from Ford and the resistors from Amazon. Got the air bladder to work just fine without needing to recalibrate the system -- got lucky I guess.

Couple more notes that someone may find helpful:

1. For the GTS II seats, easiest way (for me anyway) to install the air bladder was to remove the 3 or 4 front hog rings under the seat, then the seat cushion just lifts up as you separate the Velcro. Bladder can go under the black plastic or fiber sheet, between it and the springs on the bottom.

2. To remove the hog rings, I just pulled on them with a set of pliers (I used lineman's pliers), opened them up, pulled them out.

3. Had a hard time finding hog rings and hog ring pliers at local car parts stores, but at Tractor Supply Co. they had actual livestock pliers and rings sized for different animals. Pliers and rings were inexpensive. "Pig" size rings worked great.

Thanks again. Your "how to" and comments made the job a whole lot easier and the GTS II seats look and feel great.
 

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If I want to delete the passenger seat, do I need to worry about the bladder thing?

Thanks.

I did some searching and found a couple of threads about how to change the seats in a 2011/2012 Mustang but didn't have all the info at one place. Plus, pictures were lacking so I decided to do a DIY on how to install aftermarket seats in the 2011-2012 Mustang.

I choose to install Corbeau CR1 with the Microsuede in my 2012 Mustang GT. I do track events throughout the summer and needed a seat that would hold me more then the stock seat does. (Pictures show the passenger seat since it is harder to install then the driver's seat due to the bladder installed in the seat)

Remove:
Step 1: Remove the four bolts that hold the seat in place. You will notice that the back bolts are covered by a piece of plasic. To remove the plastic, simply slided them back towards the rear of the car. Once the four bolts are removed, you can rock the seat foward to disconnect the power and airbag wires. Once those are disconnected, carefully remove the seat.

Step 2: Once you get the seat out, you will have to disconnect all the wires from the motors/heat seats/etc. This is a time consuming part but take your time because you don't want to break anything in the process. I started with the main power connector and worked back towards all the different components. I found that using a knife, screw driver and wire cutters (for the small pieces of plastic) worked good. You need to transfer the wiring harness into the new seat.

Step 3: Disconnect the seatbelt wires and remove the seatbelt from the seat.

Step 4: Remove the seat position sensor located in the front on the side. It is pointed down towards the rail and is magnetized. This needs to go into the new seat.

Step 5: (Passenger seat only) The passenger seat has a bladder that is located in the bottom of the seat. This needs to be removed carefully and installed into the new seat for the system to work. What I found that worked was disconnecting the three wires that run from the front of the seat to the rear that act as a spring when you sit on them. If you disconnect them at the back of the seat, you can position them out of the way to get access to the bladder. You also need to cut off the green tabs that hold onto the bladder located at the front of the seat. Once I disconnected the wires and cut off the tabs, I was able to work back and forth with the bladder pulling it towards the rear of the seat to remove. It took some work to make sure it didn't rip/tear but it came out.

Install:
Step 6: (Passenger seat only) Install the bladder into the new seat that you have. I positioned my like the stock seat and did between the bottom wires/springs and the padding directly above. For my seats, I had to take off the metal rings that hold the fabric on the seat so I had a enough room to slide the bladder between them. I also put the front of the bladder tucked between the top and the bottom of the submarine hole. Once the bladder was in place, I re-installed the metal pieces holding the fabric.

Step 7: Install the wiring harness into the bottom of the seat. I used plenty of zip-ties to secure the wires to the bottom of the seat. Start off by pulling out the power supply wires, seatbelt wires and seat position wires knowing they have to be connected to other items under the seat. Then connect the bladder back up to the wiring harness and zip-tie the rest of the items to the bottom of the seat. Keep in mind that the bladder works off pressure that goes to the sensor so don't zip-tie that line tightly to anything or you might run into issues with it not working. Once you get all the wires connected under the seat, you can fold the flap back over the wires.

Step 8: At this stage, I installed the seat rails to the seat. Be sure to pull the wiring harness through the bottom center and not to smash them between the seat and the rails.

Step 9: Install the seatbelt to the frame/rails of the seat. Once connected, plug back in the wiring to the wiring harness and secure with a zip-tie.

Step 10: Install the seat position sensor. I stalled my to the bottom of the seat pointed at the seat rail but I am not sure if you need to do this or just have it connected to the system.

Step 11: Make a 2 Ohm resistor to plug into the airbag terminal that is located in the car under the seat (yellow plug) to trick the system into thinking the airbag is there. I bought the plug (Part # XF2Z-14B022-AA) from Ford that directly plugs into that plug but found out that was for the previous Mustang and the resistance is different. What you have to do is replace the resistor with a 2 Ohm resistor or two 1 Ohm resistors ran in series. I cut the back off of the plug I bought with a dremel then cut out the resistor. I then soldered the resistors together and then to the yellow plug wires to make it a true plug and play. Make sure to use electrical tape to cover up the exposed wires and then secure it better to the yellow housing. Once complete, plug it into the other yellow connector located under the seat in the car.

Step 12: Place the new seat into the vehicle to be re-installed. I found it easier to set the seat more forward then where the bolts were so I could rock the seat foward to connect the power. Once the power is connected, I picked the seat back up and placed it over the rear bolts that stick up. Install the four bolts that connect the seat to the car and you are done.


Attached are plenty of pictures showing the process and each step.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The bladder thing is so when the weight is 0-40lbs in the front seat the airbag is off and a light pops on saying passenger airbag is off located between the driver and passenger map lights. I would guess if you don't hook it up/etc, that the light will be on all the time.
 
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