[80KM2E]

Hi all, I'm going to be installing some BMR LCA this weekend and I'm just wondering how you guys get the rear up?

I see a lot of people stressing NOT to lift using the Diff.

This is my first time lifting a vehicle and I'm just wondering what the proper way would be?

Can I use a floor jack to one side then place axle stand underneath one side of axle... then go to the other side and repeat for opposite side?? Or will I need two floor jacks to lift each side then place the stands under the rear axle?

Or does everyone just use the diff?

 

[csamsh]

To do LCA's without a lift, you'll need to support the body of the car with jackstands and you'll need to support the weight of the diff with a jack. If you just remove the LCA's with the weight of the axle unsupported, or if the car is being supported with jackstands on the axle tubes, the axle and car will move and you the mounting points won't line up.

Be sure to torque with the suspension loaded.

 

[xarius]

You could back onto some rhino ramps in the rear, too. I installed my Steeda LCA's with the suspension fully loaded on a drive-on lift. It may actually be easier to install this way, the e-brake cable is mighty tight with the rear suspension at full droop.

 

[PMDmustang13]

I believe you can support rear axle with jackstands and replace the lca's. I usually jack the rear up from the pumpkin and using thick phonebook as a shim to distribute the load.

 

[xarius]

Jack stands would make me nervous. My LCA bolts took some serious effort to get loose. Maybe I'm just a pansy, but I could easily see the car rocking back and forth a lot on jack stands. I still say the ramps are probably worth the $50 investment.

 

[80KM2E]

I'm just going to bring them to a shop instead. I have no tools and the cost to buy everything I need would be same or more than what shop will cost. Doesn't sound worth the hassle with suspension stuff especially if I get stuck. Ill post after to say how they feel. Right now I'm getting massive wheel hop in colder weather with my 3.73 and starting in 3rd haha

 

[Mustang concept]

in my opinion I would not bring it to the shop I just did my own over the weekend and instead of paying someone to do it for me I took half that amount of money and bought the tools I need and I did it myself so in the end I have my lower control arms and relocation brackets on and I got new tools for half the price. Also it feels better when you work on your car your own just watch a bunch of YouTube video

 

[xarius]

It takes all of about two hours to install LCA's. You just need ramps, sockets, a breaker bar would make it easier, a good vocabulary of 4 letter words and some patience. Shop would probably charge you 1-2 hours of labor for an install, so what, $150-$200?

In regards to the wheel hop, the upper control arm is typically the culprit, so don't get too upset if the LCA's don't make a huge difference there. If you're going to pay a shop to do anything, pay them to do the UCA and associated upper mount. It's a PITA to install.

 

[Blackpenguin69]

1/2 inch drive 18mm socket, 1/2 drive breaker bar, $10 1/2 drive torque wrench that will do 129 ft/lb's. Put jack stands on the pinch welds on either side of the car right in front of the LCA. Put a jack under the pumkin and lift it less than a centimeter just to support it. This way you can move the axle a little bit if needed. Itll take stress of the bolts.

 

[[email protected]]

since I am interested in doing this to my car, aren't the LCA's supposed to be tightened at the normal height and while supported?

In trucks and jeeps I've done this and had no issues. Obviously the ride height of the car poses an issue. I agree that a 4 post lift would make this a easy task.

 

[Fabulozzz]

since I am interested in doing this to my car, aren't the LCA's supposed to be tightened at the normal height and while supported?

In trucks and jeeps I've done this and had no issues. Obviously the ride height of the car poses an issue. I agree that a 4 post lift would make this a easy task.

YES! Car must be at normal ride height to torque the LCAs. There are instructions in the shop manual about this.

 

[80KM2E]

I still ended up taking it to the shop since I was getting wheels put on as well. Yah I was charged around $200 to put them in but I have no tools at all & the tools needed for this would have cost more unless you really cheap out on them.

The LCA have helped a little bit, not as much as they are hyped up to be. I don't notice any added vibration or harshness but going over bumps (manholes) you can feel it in the rear a little more & also the rear definitely feels a lot stiffer when turning or accelerating. Keep in mind I'm using my summer P Zeros in temperatures as low as 40 and they are hooking a little better after LCA. I bet in summer the LCA will add a more noticeable difference in elimination of the wheel hop. I think it was a worthy upgrade for sure even after the install cost. You are also saving in weight & you can SEE the new LCA between the wheel and fender which is really cool if you got red ones ( I got red ones so they also added some HP gain )

 

[93TealNotch]

I still ended up taking it to the shop since I was getting wheels put on as well. Yah I was charged around $200 to put them in but I have no tools at all & the tools needed for this would have cost more unless you really cheap out on them.

The LCA have helped a little bit, not as much as they are hyped up to be. I don't notice any added vibration or harshness but going over bumps (manholes) you can feel it in the rear a little more & also the rear definitely feels a lot stiffer when turning or accelerating. Keep in mind I'm using my summer P Zeros in temperatures as low as 40 and they are hooking a little better after LCA. I bet in summer the LCA will add a more noticeable difference in elimination of the wheel hop. I think it was a worthy upgrade for sure even after the install cost. You are also saving in weight & you can SEE the new LCA between the wheel and fender which is really cool if you got red ones ( I got red ones so they also added some HP gain )

What LCA's are red? I want to do the same on my car. Thanks for the write up too. Never mind, I went back and read BMR, duh!

 

[PMDmustang13]

I still ended up taking it to the shop since I was getting wheels put on as well. Yah I was charged around $200 to put them in but I have no tools at all & the tools needed for this would have cost more unless you really cheap out on them.

The LCA have helped a little bit, not as much as they are hyped up to be. I don't notice any added vibration or harshness but going over bumps (manholes) you can feel it in the rear a little more & also the rear definitely feels a lot stiffer when turning or accelerating. Keep in mind I'm using my summer P Zeros in temperatures as low as 40 and they are hooking a little better after LCA. I bet in summer the LCA will add a more noticeable difference in elimination of the wheel hop. I think it was a worthy upgrade for sure even after the install cost. You are also saving in weight & you can SEE the new LCA between the wheel and fender which is really cool if you got red ones ( I got red ones so they also added some HP gain )

Yeah I guess you would need a good torque wrench which would eat up at least 100 bucks but you would have it for further modifications. As well as a decent 1/2" drive socket set. Oh well to each his own.

Yes you will notice more elimination of wheel hop in warmer summer time weather. Put some LCA relocation brackets in and get more traction and put some more hp to the pavement. You can get them red or black also. I have the red LCA's and the black relocation brackets.

 

[80KM2E]

BMR make a red powdered set. I picked em up at LMR BMR Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms Red (05-14)

 

[NoVa5.0]

OP, your rear LCAs were never your problem. The Track Pack cars use GT500 rear LCAs, and they aren't the culprit when it comes to wheel-hop. Just like another poster further up noted, you weren't going to see any major improvements by replacing them.

It's the upper control arms (UCAs) that are the main cause of wheel hop.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you should have left your LCAs alone, and replaced your UCAs, if eliminating wheel hop was what you were after.

 

[80KM2E]

OP, your rear LCAs were never your problem. The Track Pack cars use GT500 rear LCAs, and they aren't the culprit when it comes to wheel-hop. Just like another poster further up noted, you weren't going to see any major improvements by replacing them.

It's the upper control arms (UCAs) that are the main cause of wheel hop.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you should have left your LCAs alone, and replaced your UCAs, if eliminating wheel hop was what you were after.

Yea, I'll be doing the UCA as well when I do some other suspension mods.

 

[PMDmustang13]

Many people have solved the wheel hop problem with aftermarket LCA's and relocation brackets. That is what I did before I installed the adjustable UCA because I planned on lowering the car and the LCA's and relocation brackets were a whole lot easier to install than the UCA and mount. Both the LCA's and UCA control wheel hop in my opinion and going from rubber bushings to the poly bushings reduces the movement of the rear end. Anyway I don't think the OP will be disappointed with the results.

 

[NoVa5.0]

Many people have solved the wheel hop problem with aftermarket LCA's and relocation brackets. That is what I did before I installed the adjustable UCA because I planned on lowering the car and the LCA's and relocation brackets were a whole lot easier to install than the UCA and mount. Both the LCA's and UCA control wheel hop in my opinion and going from rubber bushings to the poly bushings reduces the movement of the rear end. Anyway I don't think the OP will be disappointed with the results.

Many people have solved wheel-hop, by replacing many parts at one time, and therefore never understanding which parts installed actually made the difference. I would theorize that relocation brackets change the geometry of the rear suspension, therefore helping with wheel-hop. Just changing rear LCAs would probably do nothing, but it depends on which rear LCAs you start with.

There are videos, posted here, and they dramatically illustrate that the UCAs are the real issue when it comes to wheel-hop.

 

[80KM2E]

Cool, thanks for the insights guys.