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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Im going to put it back to stock this weekend and see if that helps. I have a bama tune and I keep hearing how bad they can be. I looked at the long term fuel trims and it seems to be pulling too much fuel, ie white spark plugs. So new plugs, oil, stock tune back to factory and see. It makes sense cause no cel on engine or anything related to my issues. Ill let you know what happens, im buying a lund tune after this!!
 

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does the Airaid intake that you have, require a tune?

I think there are two versions: one with an insert that does not require a tune (with the insert installed) and one that does require a tune.

If you use an intake that requires a tune adjustment, with a tune that is not adjusted (such as the original factory tune), car will probably run lean and may throw lean codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
does the Airaid intake that you have, require a tune?

I think there are two versions: one with an insert that does not require a tune (with the insert installed) and one that does require a tune.

If you use an intake that requires a tune adjustment, with a tune that is not adjusted (such as the original factory tune), car will probably run lean and may throw lean codes.
The Airaid requires a tune, but I have a JLT series one that doesn't which I will put on in place of the factory intake.
 

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but you'll also need to install the factory intake, unless that Airaid CAI is the one that does not require a tune . . . if you try to run the car with an intake that requires a tune, with the factory tune, that will cause other problems that will make it all even more confusing and harder to sort out
It's not necessary to do that to simply find out if it clears up the misfiring and vibration. If he's going to drive it with the aftermarket CAI for any length of then he might get some MAF or lean codes but nothing like he's experiencing now.
 

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the Bama tune must have been the issue.
It wouldn’t be first time. Some people have okay luck BAMA, but a lot of people don’t, if you can believe the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I swear its always something, so after I took the tune off now my car says left and right cylinder banks running lean. P0171 and p0174 codes.
 

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I swear its always something, so after I took the tune off now my car says left and right cylinder banks running lean. P0171 and p0174 codes.
This was to be expected just as JBert explained in post #42. If you have an aftermarket air intake of any kind with the factory tune then lean codes may very well register even with those air intakes that advertise the supposed "no tune required" statement.
The MAF is very sensitive and will notice anything even modestly out of stock spec.
 

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The MAF is very sensitive and will notice anything even modestly out of stock spec.
“Very” isn’t even a strong enough word to describe their sensitivity and twitchiness.

Just my personal observation, but I feel like the MAF/non-stock Intake combination are responsible for the majority of tuning problems. However, exhaust can run a close second for some.
 

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I swear its always something, so after I took the tune off now my car says left and right cylinder banks running lean. P0171 and p0174 codes.
yeah, like Cobra and I mentioned, that is probably because the tune is not correct for the intake

a little more background about this:

The EFI (electronic fuel injection) system measures the incoming air (using the MAF sensor) and calculates the needed fuel to go with the air, to give the right mixture. To do this math correctly, it must have the correct diameter of the intake tube; because the MAF measures velocity, and velocity times area equals volume per unit time. (it actually uses mass, and the math uses "transfer functions", I am simplifying). If it has the wrong diameter, it will calculate the wrong area (too small) and there will be more air coming in than the computer thinks is coming in, so it won't ask for enough fuel from the injectors, and the car will run lean. Most aftermarket intakes have a bigger tube than stock, and that's why the tune must be adjusted, to fix the math, so the system calculates the right mass of incoming air and commands the right amount of fuel to go with it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I know you guys are right, I'm looking for a factory air intake box to buy and see if this goes away, hopefully the stalling and vibration goes away. It amazes me how sensitive these cars are, an old carbureted small block vs this night and day!
 

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or you could adjust the tune for the intake . . . might be a good time to talk to Lund
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
or you could adjust the tune for the intake . . . might be a good time to talk to Lund
I am planning on getting a Lund tune, after I make for sure there are no issues with the engine running rough cause I would hate to go down the path where I'm upgrading the car and there's something wrong and the tune and all the upgrades make it even more difficult to find the issue. BTW does anyone know a cheaper way to get a Lund tune other than the HP TRD device and two credits which is $400?, then the basic Lund tune is $300 on top of it.
 

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When I bought my 2013 GT (stock tune) it had about the same mileage as yours and it didn't have the smoothest of idles. So, I took the throttle body off and gave it a good, but careful cleaning and then added a passenger side oil separator. Now there's no more roughness. Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thanks, ill try it out, at this point I'm willing to try anything. I've not really enjoyed the car, it feels like car payment and car repairs then drive a car that has this issue, very depressing.
 

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I've not really enjoyed the car, it feels like car payment and car repairs then drive a car that has this issue, very depressing.
Aftermarket tunes and the mods that require tunes can open a can of worms for some people. When you get a bad tune there's probably nothing worse to figure out. Most people will generally assume it's something else causing a car to run poorly just as you did.
I've heard that Bama tunes tend to be lacking and subpar on this forum over the years as well. SCT seems to be the most popular brand out there and what most dyno tune shops use. I'm betting that they employ some of the best programmers as they will have the resources to do so.
When I bought my 2013 GT (stock tune) it had about the same mileage as yours and it didn't have the smoothest of idles. So, I took the throttle body off and gave it a good, but careful cleaning and then added a passenger side oil separator. Now there's no more roughness. Just a thought...
A dirty TB can cause idle issues for sure. It's just barely cracked open at idle and if there's build up on it then it will affect how the car idles.
 
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