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Hi, I have recently ran into some troubles shifting into 2nd when I am shifting quickly. It doesnt matter how fast I am going or how many RPM's im sitting at when I do it, It has happened while doing some spirited 0-60 runs. So I decided to try to shift really fast and hard under normal driving conditions (I shift around 2000rpms) To no avail, the grinding comes back. I have no problem shifting into any of the other gears, I have no problem down shifting into 2nd. Just when I am shifting into 2nd quickly. I can shift fairly quickly normally, but when I really put the hammer down, i get some grinding, but I let off right away.

Just another note, when rolling to a stop light, and attempting to put the car into 1st, I can hear something I would relate to a slight turbine sound coming from the shifter. I think that is the syncro, but it wont actually let me shift into 1st until I am at about 10mph. I dont know if that is normal or not, I'm a new mustang owner. But either way, could the fact that I can hear this sound mean that maybe I need new/different trans fluid?

And as a final note, I do have a B&M shifter installed, and it takes some good effort to "slip" the shifter into place. But this is with any gear, not just 2nd. Sorry for the long read. I am going to change the transmission fluid with some Royal Purple, I have heard good things about it. But I am just nervous about a rebuild.
 

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Sounds like your 2nd gear syncro's got some wear on them and may be going bad, hard to tell through posts though without hearing or feeling it, take it to a local Transmission shop and ask them to take it for a ride then post their answer...also when downshifting its very hard i'd even say unhealthy to shift into the gear at its upshift RPM by that i mean if your going 30mph in 4th cruising..trying to shift down into 1st is very difficult given that you upshift OUT of 1st at 30mph so get your speed down a little lower before you go into that gear...i also cant downshift into 1st untill a slow speed or dead stop, just the way it is on stock setup cars...also with short shifters sometimes it can make it harder to get into a gear given that with a shorter shift stick you have less leverage which means you have to use more muscle to obtain the same shift force that you'd have with the longer stock shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like your 2nd gear syncro's got some wear on them and may be going bad, hard to tell through posts though without hearing or feeling it, take it to a local Transmission shop and ask them to take it for a ride then post their answer...also when downshifting its very hard i'd even say unhealthy to shift into the gear at its upshift RPM by that i mean if your going 30mph in 4th cruising..trying to shift down into 1st is very difficult given that you upshift OUT of 1st at 30mph so get your speed down a little lower before you go into that gear...i also cant downshift into 1st untill a slow speed or dead stop, just the way it is on stock setup cars...also with short shifters sometimes it can make it harder to get into a gear given that with a shorter shift stick you have less leverage which means you have to use more muscle to obtain the same shift force that you'd have with the longer stock shifter.
Yeah those were a lot of my thoughts. I am going to change the transmission fluid with some RP. Who knows how long it's been since the previous owner had replaced it. And I've read some symptoms of when it's time to change fluid, and my car qualifies almost exactly. So im hoping that will remedy a lot of my shifter qualms.
 

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Yup, worn synchro's. And although it's a matter of preference and I'm sure the RP will be fine, from what I've read on this subject Mobile 1 synthetic atf and the GM Synchromax stuff seem to make our 3650's about as happy as they'll get. Actually, I recall reading somewhere that the M1 stuff is what Tremec has spec'd for the 3650.

Regarding the first gear thing, and this should be standard practice with any manual trans vehicle, wait until you are at a complete stop or at least not moving faster than walking speed before trying to move into 1st. Not sure if all or most m/t's are like this, but I've heard that the 1st gear on our cars is cut at a straighter angle than gears 2-5 which is not only why it can be a little noisy but also difficult to get into while you're moving.
 

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I used to have that second gear grind all the time. I kept getting told it was my synchros. I later come to find out that all I needed was a clutch change. I would get second/third opinions (they're free) from a few transmission shops (have them drive it) and see what they say. Is your clutch really stiff? I would wait on putting that Royal Purple in if it turns out you need a clutch job.
 

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The TR-3650's almost always grind 2nd, and often 3rd, in stock form. I have tried several fluids, depending on the viscosity, certain fluids will get rid of the 3rd gear grind and give way to the 2nd gear grind, and vise versa.

I run Dex in mine, it seems to be the best for my car in terms of both gears.
 

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His signature says his car is a '96... so I doubt it has the 3650 tranny.
It should have the T45.
I experienced grinding in second in my '99 with the T45 on hard/quick shifts as well. It didn't happen all the time, and I still experienced it after I installed a Steeda short-throw shifter.
Here's what cured mine (It sounds like ********, but I swear it doesn't happen any more)
I got rid of the ****** stock shift knob and put a retro style shift knob from B&M on there. It's just round and white, but it has some more mass to it. I did it for looks, but it also made it easier to shift the gears.
I haven't missed second since I put it on there. Go figure.
 

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Yeah, I posted and was like... I wonder what year it is, but was too lazy to look back for his signature.

Please disregard anything I said, however, fresh fluid is always good!
 

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yep mine did it for years until I rebuilt the trans with updated synchros...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I know this is an aging thread, but just a quick question. When looking into this, I have noticed that buying a short throw shifter can remedy the problem. I haven't had the opportunity or and need to take the boot off of the shifter to see what kind of shifter I had. So now it leads me to wonder what kind of shifter I actually have.

On the bottom plastic ring of the shift knob/handle, it says B&M, so I assumed it was a B&M shifter. But now I realize that it could definitely just be an aftermarket knob. When I feel the shaft of the shifter it feels like it would resemble a construction like this:

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/27596428/m5lp_0501_06_+steeda_tri_ax_shifter+shifter_handle.jpg

^^It just feels something like how that would feel ^^

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/148876/ppuser/137047
^^ heres a pic of my interior, I'm in reverse. ^^

And the throw doesnt seems too long, but it doesnt seem too quick either, but this is also my first mustang so I have nothing to base it on in the first place.

So final question: What kind of shifter do I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
nevermind, pulled it off, saw it was a tri-ax. What a nice surprise! haha. either way, going to change the fluid this weekend. Ill post updates. not that anybody cares anyways! :laugh:
 

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This forum likes to answer only some questions :winks

The fluid change should help a little if the old fluid is warn out. Might want to try some synthetic, RP Synchromesh is supposed to be a good synthetic, and I've read the t45's aren't that picky about fluid. Since the fluid change is easy, and a small volume, you can try different fluids until you find one to minimize the problem.
 

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And lucky on the Tri-ax, when I pull stuff apart on my car, its all the original 65K, 7 year old ford stuff :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This forum likes to answer only some questions :winks

The fluid change should help a little if the old fluid is warn out. Might want to try some synthetic, RP Synchromesh is supposed to be a good synthetic, and I've read the t45's aren't that picky about fluid. Since the fluid change is easy, and a small volume, you can try different fluids until you find one to minimize the problem.
I was planning on putting RP in! Good to see I have a second opinion on it! But yeah I know, everywhere I look this thing has something more to give, haha. The salesman at the dealership said that the only thing he did to the car was the cold air intake and ignition. Lucky for me he was mistaken. The only thing the previous owner didnt do was a PI swap! :(

But thanks for the input, I appreciate it.
 

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You lucked out with that purchase then!

Are you planning on doing the PI swap? If your car is a weekend cruiser, I would just as soon swap in some 4.10 gears and see if that satisfies your need for acceleration, and it puts a lot less of a dent in your wallet. The NPI engines are enough for fun street cars from the ones I've driven with gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah Im planning on PI swapping this summer. Since I only work part time in summer without having school, I'll have more time to do it. But I've also looked into doing a rear-end swap too, I've just heard that even though the parts are cheap, you need professional labor to put them in. Whats your thoughts on that?
 
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