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Discussion Starter #1
im new to this scene. i picked up my 68 mustang about 3 months ago and decided to build an engine first. i picked up a 351c 2v, and a c6 with 56k for fairly cheap as a pair.

the cleveland was in not so hot shape so i decided to go for a full out rebuild. so far i have:
-bore + .060 bearings .010/.010
hypereutectic flat-top Speed Pro pistons
Hastings cast rings
Clevite 77 street performer Class II camshaft 292/302 adv. cam
16 new Speed Pro lifters
Clevite 77 main bearings
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Durabond seamless cam bearings
Pioneer brass freeze plugs
Fel Pro full gasket set, including valley pan
Cloyes 3-piece couble roller timing set
Melling oil pump
-heads redone w/1pc valves
CompCams1.72 roller rockers
Maddog hardened pushrods

i have just about worked my way out to things like ignition and air/fuel. this is where it gets tricky for me.

whats recomended for the carb size. im pretty much set on the edelbrock intake, would the 750cfm be too much? as far the rest goes for exhaust i plan on going with hooker full length headers and 2.5 piping.

is anyone running procomp 6AL ignition set ups? they look pretty legit. but ive yet to use any of thier products.

are there any other parts that are recomended for builds like mine?

what would a few good options be for street/strip set ups?

i have an edelbrock nitrous kit, would a mild shot be wise in this application?

is there anyone who has built a similar set up? or a 2v cleveland for power and streetabiltly that can give a few pointers?

all input is appreciated. im sure there a things ive forgot to list.

light porting, high cooling and good lubrication are a given.

thanks,

Angel
 

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I haven't built a cleveland, but I can tell you that you should spend extra for forged pistons and rods...cheap life insurance for the motor and the ability to upgrade the engine later if that ever arises...why did you go with the cleveland, hard to modify and very few performance parts are available...the 302/331 stroker or 351/408 stroker in my opinion is a much better option...
 

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1. .060 over is usually frowned upon without a sonic check, seems odd to have '56k miles' and need to go .060 over if it is at .030 now I would look to see if you can go to .040

2. The full MSD ignition setup is nice, I run it in my cleveland. (6a box, ready to run dizzy, blaster 3 coil)

3. 750 is too large, that is the size that I run on my 410c, a 650 (or even a 600) is more in line with that you need

4. A few good options for street/strip? Not sure how much I can help you there, you have already decided on the cam and the brand of intake...but which one are you using? I assume this is the cam since its the only one I can find named what you posted: Fast Engine Parts

5. You building a hand grenade if you expect to run nitrous on a .060 cleveland and without a forged bottom end (IMO anyway)

6. The heads need to have the one piece valves upgraded

Here are some example engine builds:
Cleveland Engine Builds: 351C 2V FMX '71 Cougar - Wade K 13.9 @ 103.4 Drag racer
This is from specs in a magazine:
Cleveland Engine Builds: 351C 2V trans? car? Chris J Mustang & Fords" Sept 95 Build
 

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Welcome to the site.
I run a 800 demon and its to small. But I do have a aggressive cam. .060 is to big it doesn't leave much room between the cylinders. MSD worked the best for me. All plug and play. The headers and the exhaust should be fine. Try to stay away from the NOS until you have a forged setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
forged options werent an option from fast engine parts at the moment. i asked, no dice. i dont plan on horse beating the engine aside from the a few stoplight runs.

the cam was also on backorder... so they "upgraded" to the 292/302 cam. i was told i would be ok since i plan on running a little bigger torque converter on the c6.

cylinder rust was the major factor in the bore size. i could have sleeved one clylinder, and had a +.030... i did pick up the complete engine tranny setup for 300 though. im pretty sure i can pick up another cheap block if things went wrong. that is also the reason i choose the cleveland- it was cheap. and theyre a pretty respectible engine.

i dont plan on every spraying more than a 75 shot... its more of a just to have type of thing.

one piece valves were an upgrade. complete head job to boot.

MSD would be very nice, at this point im starting to take budget into consideration. ProComp seems like an OK multiple spark n all. $250 for the complete package.

Procomp has a few intake manifolds too. they honestly look like cast replicas of edelbrocks. internally i plan on porting a little anyways.

i appreciate all the input. those engine builds are pretty similar to mine- im not 100% sure what my compression ratio is- sad huh. but i hope my numbers are similar!
 

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I would advise a roller cam kit if you can afford it,it is one thing I never regret doing and the engine us smooth and revs freely - also controls heat
 

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You should "strongly consider" the advise that dodgestang is saying. $300 may not be such a deal if you think about all the money you are putting into the motor (not to mention your hard work). I have several clevlands. I would avoid anything more than .040 on the boring. You have to consider the heat issues. If you dump nitrous, its gonna get even hotter.

I've got several clevelands. To many actually. I even have a 4-bolt main block thats bored .040 over ready to be rebuilt. I dont think we are supposed to sell things here but what you paid for your cleveland and tranny you could own this block for the same money.

The clevleand is an incredible engine if done properly.

Hey dodstang, sweet fastback !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thing is... everything listed is what i already purchased. not what i plan on buying. i dont want to have to sell and replace parts. i know it would be better now then later if i planned on doing it- but this is where im at now.

a 30% over stock water pump is already in the works. im going with an aluminum radiator w/dual electric fans to help with the heat. hood also has vents (anything helps). thermo wrapping everything, even adding an oil cooler. no ac/ps (yet, maybe ever).
 
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