[Jstang1808]

So i have 2 12" subwoofers but lack a box to house them. Locally it will cost me 150 to make a custom box, can anyone refer me to a place that would have a 2x12 box for the trunk of a 2008 convertible?

 

[Jstang1808]

Alsooo. Does the shaker 500 system have rca jacks in the back? Just trying to find out before I open stuff up to find out there is not. Thanks!

 

[shifter87]

Not to throw my site out there but I can make you one for way less than that, I live in Sanford NC so shipping wouldn't be much and it only takes 24 hours to make because the wood glue and fiberglass enforcements I add need to fully cure. This would be for 3/4 in standard MDF, black carpet cover and RCA plate it back to attach subwoofer.

Check out Shifter Customs - Are you ready to take you ride to the next level, step on up and let me help you get there.Brandon- Owner/Creator Shifter CustomsSHIFTER CUSTOMS 001Â*Welcome to Shiftercustoms.com, Custom Auto Interiors, Audio and Video installation

It will be under shifter customs products and pricing.
I will cut you a break and PM you a good price.

 

[Jstang1808]

I tried to message you back but it said that you weren't accepting private messages. So hopefully you will refer back to this thread.

Your offer sounds pretty interesting, so let me see if I have this correct. You are offering a carpeted box to house two 12" subs for 85 dollars? Is that the total for the box, ready for use?
As for the RCA adapter, I'm not so sure about that. I have't hooked up anything like this before. At his point I have my RCAs spliced into my rear speaker wires since my radio doesn't have RCA jacks. I'm not sure if the signal going to my amp just isn't strong enough or if it is faulty. Any suggestions on what I should do about the lack of radio RCA jacks?

Oh one other thing, it will fit with the convertible top, correct?

 

[shifter87]

I sent you a PM

Sorry my AFM account was all messed up I changes my e-mail and apparently it disables your account until you verify your new e-mail.

I was kind of wandering how you would pass up such a good deal since I didn't get a response.

First off yes that is correct $85 for the box that is a deal I don't normally give. If you need me to ship it I can using the UPS terminal the cheapest way to ship. I can make it fit any space you need it to, just make sure that the space you want it to go it matched to the Sub you have.

For example I installed a system for a guy that had a truck and the subs under the back seats do to limited space they needed to be shallow mount but he didn't listen and bought regular size needless to say fitment and sound quality was horrible.

Don't worry about the RCA jacks most cars that I have installed systems on dont have RCA on the back of the stereo that's where the RCA module comes in using the existing signal from your speakers usually the ones farthest away such as the speakers in the trunk.

Is that what you currently have the RCA Module.

 

[Jstang1808]

Alright, so I do not have the RCA module, just a splice into the speaker wires with some RCA cables, right at the speakers in the back seats. That's as far back as I could go but the signal is super weak so I guess I do need the RCA module. How much would that cost me? I might as well buy it the same place as the box.

 

[Jstang1808]

Also, could you link me to the RCA module?

I was looking at Hifonics MM-1 (mm1) - Universal iPod/MP3 Adapters for Car Stereos - Sonic Electronix


Is that what you would be using or no?

 

[bigkzilla]

Also, could you link me to the RCA module?

I was looking at Hifonics MM-1 (mm1) - Universal iPod/MP3 Adapters for Car Stereos - Sonic Electronix


Is that what you would be using or no?

I am assuming you are trying to install an aftermarket amp to run your 2 subs? If you are you don't need that thing assuming your amp can accept low level input with the RCA jack. My guess is you are tied into the wires that used to go to the stock sub. The stock amp runs in mono mode so there is only one channel. You are looking for a pink/light green striped wire and a orange/red striped wire. Both of these are the inputs to your factory shaker amp. The pink/light green one is the negative (-) and the orange/red is the positive (+). Wire these to an RCA plug. If you are running a stereo amp instead of a monoblock you will have to get a RCA y-adapter so you can run both channels of the amp if it doesn't have provisions to run mono from a mono input.

 

[bigkzilla]

Your best bet is to run right off of the head unit. You don't need a module just get yourself an RCA cable long enough to run from the head unit to the trunk. Chop off one of the ends and splice into the J4 connector on the back of the head unit. Pin 1 is positive (+) and pin 2 is negative (-). If you get a good wire with a shielding wire (recommended) tap that into pin 3. The remote turn on wire will be pin 4 on this same connector (you were probably wondering about that too, huh?). Again, if your amp is stereo you will have to get a y-adapter. This will give you the best signal to your amp.

Here is a diagram:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5967

 

[shifter87]

Some Info

Also, could you link me to the RCA module?

I was looking at Hifonics MM-1 (mm1) - Universal iPod/MP3 Adapters for Car Stereos - Sonic Electronix


Is that what you would be using or no?

This is what I have, Valor ACC-HLC (acchlc) - Line-Out Converters - Sonic Electronix

I have two of these for my stereo amp I have one amp that runs my speakers behind my seat (custom setup) and the speakers in the sides of my trunk. I then have a mono amp for the added subs.

I suggest going with this setup because the install is so simple these module converters take the signal from the rear speakers and convert it to RCA to attach to your Amp then depending on the amp you have you will run speaker wire or RCA to the Sub box.

They are definitly cheaper from Sonic Electronix but I bought them local for I think $6 a piece.

And unless your looking at hooking an IPOD you don't need the item you attached.

you can use BigKZilla Method and it should work fine I just prefer this method but like anything else it's personal preference

 

[bigkzilla]

This is what I have, Valor ACC-HLC (acchlc) - Line-Out Converters - Sonic Electronix

I have two of these for my stereo amp I have one amp that runs my speakers behind my seat (custom setup) and the speakers in the sides of my trunk. I then have a mono amp for the added subs.

I suggest going with this setup because the install is so simple these module converters take the signal from the rear speakers and convert it to RCA to attach to your Amp then depending on the amp you have you will run speaker wire or RCA to the Sub box.

They are definitly cheaper from Sonic Electronix but I bought them local for I think $6 a piece.

And unless your looking at hooking an IPOD you don't need the item you attached.

you can use BigKZilla Method and it should work fine I just prefer this method but like anything else it's personal preference

\

Those things work ok if you are not too terribly concerned about sound quality. Anytime you run a signal through a some sort of "converter" you introduce noise and reduce signal integrity. Really the best option would be to get an aftermarket head unit and replace all of the speakers in the car. That's what I did. Let's just say I have more in my stereo than you have in your turbo set up so far lol. :hihi: Believe it or not, the stereo has been the first thing to go in all of my rides.

 

[bigkzilla]

This is what I have, Valor ACC-HLC (acchlc) - Line-Out Converters - Sonic Electronix

I have two of these for my stereo amp I have one amp that runs my speakers behind my seat (custom setup) and the speakers in the sides of my trunk. I then have a mono amp for the added subs.

I suggest going with this setup because the install is so simple these module converters take the signal from the rear speakers and convert it to RCA to attach to your Amp then depending on the amp you have you will run speaker wire or RCA to the Sub box.

They are definitly cheaper from Sonic Electronix but I bought them local for I think $6 a piece.

And unless your looking at hooking an IPOD you don't need the item you attached.

you can use BigKZilla Method and it should work fine I just prefer this method but like anything else it's personal preference

\

Those things work ok if you are not too terribly concerned about sound quality. Anytime you run a signal through a some sort of "converter" you introduce noise and reduce signal integrity. Really the best option would be to get an aftermarket head unit and replace all of the speakers in the car. That's what I did. Let's just say I have more in my stereo than you have in your turbo set up so far lol. :hihi: Believe it or not the stereo has been the first thing to go in any of my rides.

 

[Jstang1808]

I'm going to wire I to the head unit since I can do it without ordering anything else. And as for the box I actually plan on passing through Sanford on my way to the whitelake/elizabeth town area around Friday. So if I do ill call the number on your site to let you know and we can forget about the shipping price. But I'm definitely interested in you box.

 

[shifter87]

Sounds Good Man

I'm going to wire I to the head unit since I can do it without ordering anything else. And as for the box I actually plan on passing through Sanford on my way to the whitelake/elizabeth town area around Friday. So if I do ill call the number on your site to let you know and we can forget about the shipping price. But I'm definitely interested in you box.

Sounds Good just let me know remember I need 24 Hours.

 

[bigkzilla]

I'm going to wire I to the head unit since I can do it without ordering anything else.

Let me know how that works out for you.

 

[shifter87]

works fine

Let me know how that works out for you.

I would just run the speaker wires down the opposite side of you amp power lines and into the amp and from the amp to the sub.

 

[bigkzilla]

I would just run the speaker wires down the opposite side of you amp power lines and into the amp and from the amp to the sub.

That's basically what he is doing. The factory head unit doesn't have RCA jacks on it but it does have outputs on it that the factory door sub amp and the rear shaker amp uses for a low level signal. He is going to tie into this feed at the source with an RCA cable and run it to the amp. This same plug has a remote wire on it to turn the amp on too (he was using a switch originally).

No need for a converter because the signal is already low level. The only time you need one of those converters is when all you have is speaker outputs. It converts the higher voltage to a lower voltage to drive a low level amp input.

 

[KlrStng]

That's basically what he is doing. The factory head unit doesn't have RCA jacks on it but it does have outputs on it that the factory door sub amp and the rear shaker amp uses for a low level signal. He is going to tie into this feed at the source with an RCA cable and run it to the amp. This same plug has a remote wire on it to turn the amp on too (he was using a switch originally).

No need for a converter because the signal is already low level. The only time you need one of those converters is when all you have is speaker outputs. It converts the higher voltage to a lower voltage to drive a low level amp input.

I would still use a hi level converter as you may still need to adjust for level to prevent noise, and it will also decouple the signal from ground and possibly prevent a ground loop that can also result in noise. Any stereo shop will have one they can sell you, and they are usually around $20-30 for a decent one.

 

[bigkzilla]

I would still use a hi level converter as you may still need to adjust for level to prevent noise, and it will also decouple the signal from ground and possibly prevent a ground loop that can also result in noise. Any stereo shop will have one they can sell you, and they are usually around $20-30 for a decent one.

If this were true then the factory stereo would have noise in it. This is the same signal that the factory amps use. High level converters are used when you only have speaker (high) level outputs. If he finds he has noise (as with any amp install) you can get 1:1 ground-loop isolators (noise blockers).

 

[Jstang1808]

Yeah, the local places tried to bull crap me with those converters. Every private company I called could have tried to sell me something but told me I could do what Bigkzilla said. I got all my wires running up to the radio but it started storming pretty bad so I have not finished yet :/.

At first I though I would need some kind of converter, but Big's suggestion should def work, and thanks for the diagram btw