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Discussion Starter #1
Long day and lots done with a few problems.
The good:

  • Autozone loans a slide hammer that works great for removing the axle
  • New axle bearings pressed on the axles at the machine shop for $30 each
  • Figured out how to get out the old axle seals. Found a 1 1/4 inch PVC coupling works perfect for setting the new seal in the axle tube.
  • Was able to get the old center chunk loose with few bangs of a hammer
  • New center pumpkin went in with no problem (heavy though)
The Bad:

  • Found both brake wheel cylinders were leaking
  • It needed new shoes
  • Found there are 2 different wheel cylinders based on your build date on a 66.
  • The brake line to the wheel cylinder can VERY easily get caught behind the the backing plate and crush the flare. I get to practice my tube bending skills again tomorrow.
  • Work on 1 side at a time when doing brakes so you have a reference.
The 66 is on jack stands for the night. Tomorrow the brakes get finished and new tubing installed. And then the fun begins with the first drive!

My question:

Is there a proper way to break in a new center chunk with Trak Lok and new gears? The guy at the shop said to go do figure eights for 10 minutes and then let it cool for a 30 minutes but I had never heard that before.

Suggestions?

Thanks in Advance!

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
 

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Hi there 66 resto,

I had mine changed out a while back and swapped the open 2.7 to a 3.5:1 LSD, the diff guy gave me a conditioner to put in the oil to get the noise down quickly but i don't recall any special brake-in instructions.

I understand the type of conditioner is very important as the wrong one will significantly shorten the life of your diff (i can't help with the correct brand sorry).

Steve
 

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we knew you could do it!:bigthumbsup and yes that is the best way to brake in a gear. richmond recomends, 5-8 miles and cool for an hour. 2-3 times.
 

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Nice job!! I figured out this same thing about the wheel cylinders when I did mine... I replaced both of mine along with all the other brake hardware. The later 66 wheel cylinders look slightly different than the early ones. Not sure if it matters really.

As for the break-in procedure, the company I bought mine from (3.25s with Trak Lok) gave me an actual procedure. It says to drive the car continuously for at least 30 miles, but no more than 100, and then let is it for 3-4 hours until it is completely cool. Repeat this two more times.
 

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Ron, about removing and installing those pesky axle seals should you ever have to do it again...

The same slide hammer loaner you got has a seal remover attachment. It's shaped like a "T", where the "T" is hinged so it can collapse to fit inside the seal and you open the "T" back up so it expands across the entire length of the seal. Then give the hammer a few good tugs and it yanks the seal right out.

They will also have a bearing and seal installer set for loan, that are shaped for the size of bearings and you smack on it with a hammer to install the bearing or seal. Both are very good things to have for this type of work that ameliorate the head ache.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well just got back in from the 3rd 30 min drive.

WOW!

The car feels like someone gave it some steroids the way it throws you back in the seat now. It is definately a big difference in the feel of the car.

Take off from 1st gear is just right with the T5 and 3.55 gears. I was thinking I wanted 3.80 gears but I think it would have made 1st gear too short. It gets going to redline in a heart beat now.

5th gear has much more passing power now. If you need more, drop it into 4th and be in the middle of the powerband.

Went through a radar "you are going" sign and the speedo is 6MPH off now. More home work for the right gear tooth on the cable....

And to top it off... In the deserted Industrial park on private property, there is now 2 black rubber stripes from a Trak Lok test.

The Mustang Gods are smiling right now... It was a very good day!

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ron, about removing and installing those pesky axle seals should you ever have to do it again...

The same slide hammer loaner you got has a seal remover attachment. It's shaped like a "T", where the "T" is hinged so it can collapse to fit inside the seal and you open the "T" back up so it expands across the entire length of the seal. Then give the hammer a few good tugs and it yanks the seal right out.

They will also have a bearing and seal installer set for loan, that are shaped for the size of bearings and you smack on it with a hammer to install the bearing or seal. Both are very good things to have for this type of work that ameliorate the head ache.
Thanks Lizer
I put a large washer on the slide hammer between 2 nuts and it made quick work of the seal. I did not know Autozone had the seal installer or I would have grabbed it also.
Love the Autozone Loan a tool program. The part I hate at my local store is they have people who are "new" to parts business and dont have much to offer in the way of advice. I have also been known to walk out with the wrong part. But it also happens at other parts stores too.!

Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron
 

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Right on Ron. Loved it when I dropped my 3.40's. Whew! I was hesitant to accelerate the first day I got it but when I did last week on the freeway, WOW! Enough said. Feels good to give your pony some juice, huh? hahah I'm still debating whether to swap to a T-5 or stick it out with my C4. I love my C4 and yea it revs up to 3-3200, but I REALLY don't here it. Weird! I almost thought it drove normal. I'll decide later after my paint job whether to tranny swap or not.
 

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Right on Ron. Loved it when I dropped my 3.40's. Whew! I was hesitant to accelerate the first day I got it but when I did last week on the freeway, WOW! Enough said. Feels good to give your pony some juice, huh? hahah I'm still debating whether to swap to a T-5 or stick it out with my C4. I love my C4 and yea it revs up to 3-3200, but I REALLY don't here it. Weird! I almost thought it drove normal. I'll decide later after my paint job whether to tranny swap or not.
so major difference I take it? Is the 3000 rpm at highway speeds?
 
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