[2VipeRS]

So, I was talking to MMR about my options and there are a few out there, but we both came to the agreement that the most fun build would be the following:

• 20 over hone the old block
• 20 over larger pistons
• Reuse old block instead of getting a new one ($1325 from Tousley) because of the added costs in balancing the rotating asssembly

The other option would be to keep the OEM specs for piston diameter, get a new block and balance the rotating assembly.

Sound like a good direction, or would you guys keep the stock dimensions and go with the new block...

 

[jlawrence613]

I have no idea what you're talking about. But if it makes your car faster and its never been done before, rock on!

 

[goldenr1]

I have no idea what you're talking about. But if it makes your car faster and its never been done before, rock on!

We need more people like you.

Honing is done after a bore, but I am assuming he meant boring out to .20 over, in effect slightly increasing the displacement.

I say stroke it! Though I am not sure how much room we have...

 

[mustangkid9234]

We need more people like you.

Not sure if total ******* sarcasm or not... But, thank you for clarifying the stroking and what .20 and stuff means. I always look at 331 stroker fox bodys and never understand half of what they say lol

ALSO, SWEET CANT WAIT TO HEAR ABOUT THIS MONSTER OF A CAR

 

[goldenr1]

Not sure if total ******* sarcasm or not... But, thank you for clarifying the stroking and what .20 and stuff means. I always look at 331 stroker fox bodys and never understand half of what they say lol

ALSO, SWEET CANT WAIT TO HEAR ABOUT THIS MONSTER OF A CAR

No, that was absolute honesty! We need more people that support more power and modification, even if they themselves don't fully understand it. We need those people to combat all the people that scoff and say it's dumb, a waste of money, won't work, etc.

I didn't know jack about this kind of stuff until I built a motor myself - we bored and stroked a 351W for my 69 mustang sportroof. We turned a 351 into a 396, and raised the compression. The result? A mean 351 stroker

Truth be told - I still don't really know jack. It's fun just the same

 

[Blackpenguin69]

I have no idea what you're talking about. But if it makes your car faster and its never been done before, rock on!

hahaha same thing.. same thinggg

 

[bluebyu12]

never seen the blue print for the motor but if have to imagine the cylinder walls aren't that thick. if it can be safely don't with out killing the integrity of the block go for it. but if its sketchy get a new block and build it with oem specs

 

[bluebyu12]

safely done*

damn auto correct lol

 

[2VipeRS]

I just talked it over with my buddy at the Mustang Shop in Seattle and learned a couple really good tidbits of information:

1. Keeping stock dimensions is HIGHLY recommended, especially for road course days. They have a D1 Procharged Mustang completely tracked out making over 700RWHP and completely recommended me keeping stock dimensions due to excess heat, so I will not be over boring/honing.
2. There is a new turbo kit, other than CFM and Hellion that is slated to be coming out shortly. He wouldn't give me details on it, but he said it is going to be a "sweet" option for us 3.7L guys

I love these guys at the Mustang Shop, they are so cool!

 

[solidhadriel]

I just talked it over with my buddy at the Mustang Shop in Seattle and learned a couple really good tidbits of information:

1. Keeping stock dimensions is HIGHLY recommended, especially for road course days. They have a D1 Procharged Mustang completely tracked out making over 700RWHP and completely recommended me keeping stock dimensions due to excess heat, so I will not be over boring/honing.
2. There is a new turbo kit, other than CFM and Hellion that is slated to be coming out shortly. He wouldn't give me details on it, but he said it is going to be a "sweet" option for us 3.7L guys

I love these guys at the Mustang Shop, they are so cool!

Well this is new and relevant information. :bigthumbsup

 

[2VipeRS]

Here are the details (yes, this really dug into my savings I had for a new house, lol):

Engine parts-$2850.00 4340 rods with ARP 2000 bolts, 5810 alloy pistons,
Freight-$200.000
Machine and balance-$1700
Assemble-$500.00
Remove and install $2,000.00
Misc-$500.00
Dyno tune-$400.00
===============
Total $8150.00


He said the machinists they had will make this engine will be putting out more horsepower because of how good a machinists they are, he said they are some of the best in the industry. So, the price is fair if they are what they say they are. Good stuff!!!

Seems to be right on with what Solo estimated for an engine build with having another person do it.

 

[goldenr1]

Here are the details (yes, this really dug into my savings I had for a new house, lol):

Engine parts-$2850.00 4340 rods with ARP 2000 bolts, 5810 alloy pistons,
Freight-$200.000
Machine and balance-$1700
Assemble-$500.00
Remove and install $2,000.00
Misc-$500.00
Dyno tune-$400.00
===============
Total $8150.00


He said the machinists they had will make this engine will be putting out more horsepower because of how good a machinists they are, he said they are some of the best in the industry. So, the price is fair if they are what they say they are. Good stuff!!!

Seems to be right on with what Solo estimated for an engine build with having another person do it.

Add 5k for a turbo kit and another 1k for additional installation and you have one heck of a little machine built (engine wise) for over 700whp. Not bad for car + $15k

 

[2VipeRS]

Add 5k for a turbo kit and another 1k for additional installation and you have one heck of a little machine built (engine wise) for over 700whp. Not bad for car + $15k

I've got a P1 procharger on it already, just waiting for my car to be shipped back to me in a running condition I would definitely love a nice turbo on it some day (mmmm!).

 

[mustangkid9234]

man whats better a fully built v6 or a gt with a supercharger on it... man i vote the sixxer
hmmm build my car or buy a Buick GN lol
good luck broski and keep us updated

 

[trustyrusty436]

CFM used a D1 pro charger unit, they also have it on a stock motor that runs in the 10's! A new 3.7 is a lot cheaper than the $8150.00 for the build job, so why not wait till or if the stock unit goes bad. As far as I know CFM is still using the same motor!:wavey The crank and rods are forged are they not! The pistons are cast so you could possible replace them if you think your really going to make that much power, but you got that to do right.:smoke:Seems like a lot of money and effort for not that much reason, course it you nickel!:kooky:

 

[FiK]

Good luck to you and the forged V6 'Stang 2vipeRS.

News about another turbo kit coming out... This is a great week for the 3.7L guys.

 

[2VipeRS]

CFM used a D1 pro charger unit, they also have it on a stock motor that runs in the 10's! A new 3.7 is a lot cheaper than the $8150.00 for the build job, so why not wait till or if the stock unit goes bad. As far as I know CFM is still using the same motor!:wavey The crank and rods are forged are they not! The pistons are cast so you could possible replace them if you think your really going to make that much power, but you got that to do right.:smoke:Seems like a lot of money and effort for not that much reason, course it you nickel!:kooky:

Well, I do have a reason. My #2 piston took a dump (no compression) and cylinder 4 & 6 were down to 40% compression.

So yes, I am using all stock components, just getting tighter tolerances with having my old block machined and honed, then getting the block balanced and measured to get exactly the right fitting parts. I was planning to do an engine swap to a forged setup a year or two from now anyway, it just came a bit sooner than anticipated.

Thanks FiK!

 

[frankp]

Ring end gap will need to be opened up, as it is at .004" which was done by Ford for emissions. I think we're going to see more procharged V6 engines with low compression. I suggest compression and leak down testing all of you V6 Procharged guys ASAP.

Keeping the bore stock, and using the manley pistons will cost you more than going over .020, and using off the shelf parts. MMR is pricing their parts high, due to the small number of people asking for forged internals. Try triangle speed shop for a set of billet oil pump gears. The originals are one of the weak links in the 3.7L. The originals are powder metal. Also contact ATI for a custom overdrive damper pulley. I'm getting my block machined this week. Seems like forever to get all the parts in. ARP still does not have a head or block stud kit for this engine.

You are number three in the rebuild list.

 

[2VipeRS]

Ring end gap will need to be opened up, as it is at .004" which was done by Ford for emissions. I think we're going to see more procharged V6 engines with low compression. I suggest compression and leak down testing all of you V6 Procharged guys ASAP.

Keeping the bore stock, and using the manley pistons will cost you more than going over .020, and using off the shelf parts. MMR is pricing their parts high, due to the small number of people asking for forged internals. Try triangle speed shop for a set of billet oil pump gears. The originals are one of the weak links in the 3.7L. The originals are powder metal. Also contact ATI for a custom overdrive damper pulley. I'm getting my block machined this week. Seems like forever to get all the parts in. ARP still does not have a head or block stud kit for this engine.

You are number three in the rebuild list.

I'm right there with ya, bud lol. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks now, the engine was sent to the machine shop yesterday, and we are just waiting for the parts as of right now (quoted 3-4 weeks... but I have ZERO faith on MMR time schedules after what my friend and Solo has been through, haha), but one can only hope :worship

I emailed my builder the info you suggested, so just waiting back a reply for them for their suggestion on your suggestion :grinroll:

 

[frankp]

I'm right there with ya, bud lol. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks now, the engine was sent to the machine shop yesterday, and we are just waiting for the parts as of right now (quoted 3-4 weeks... but I have ZERO faith on MMR time schedules after what my friend and Solo has been through, haha), but one can only hope :worship

I emailed my builder the info you suggested, so just waiting back a reply for them for their suggestion on your suggestion :grinroll:

I was told yesterday by email that MMR has the pistons and rods, so you may get them in 3-4 weeks.

Let me know if you need phone numbers and email contacts on the oil pump gears. 5 to 6 weeks delivery though. Your builder must not be very busy. I had several engines before mine, so I've been 90 days since my piston ring broke and my engine was disassembled. I also had low compression on the passenger side. Solobusa's been waiting even longer (since April?)

I'm getting the heads ported and polished. S/B done this week. I'm hoping to be able to get an NA tune in 3 to 4 weeks, then the 8 rib pulley set up goes in. Also, the one way plastic valve is $28.00 from Procharger. Good thing to replace as it's inexpensive and tears easily.