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Discussion Starter #1
I just swapped my 99 3.8 for a 2002 4.6(both automatic) along with the harness and all. Thankfully all this came off my 02' GT donor. One owner(hate myself for wrecking her) and now I can't seem to get the car to even crank.

I have no fuel pressure; car does not crank. But I can use the factory alarm to unlock and open trunk so that should say that the harness is some what installed correctly. I verified most important wiring clips and ECU are connected.

I swapped the engine harness and the dash harness. I haven't swapped the cabin harness yet, but I heard it is not necessary?

The previous owner did have have an aftermarket alarm but I cut it off. There are a few wires dangling around the ignition but I wired them back to place. Which leads to other wires that are not in place or cut around the neutral safety switch, brake switches, what ever else goes around the pedal assembly.

I NEED HELP. I have a possible hurricane coming to Miami in 2 days and need to move the car.

Do you guys think that getting a custom tune for my SCT tuner could bypass any minor issues that are preventing the car from starting?

Any pointers would be appreciated.
 

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Are you getting any codes? Sounds like you missed some things. Do you have fuel? Do you have power to sensors around the motor (ohm meter will be your friend) What happens if you jump the starter to the battery?

Start there. God speed before the twisty
 

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Also, it sounds like to me the fuel pump driver isn't doing shiz. Check power to the PCM under the passengers side fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I need to double check for codes. If you jump the starter the engine cranks but it does so in a ruff bumpy fashion.

Are you talking about the CCRM that is under the fender?
 

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Is the theft light blinking? Did you swap the ECU, Key Cylinder and Key along with the gauge cluster? All those things work together with PATS so that if one doesn't match the others, Passive Anti-Theft kicks in, and the car won't start.

A custom tune with PATS disabled will take care of any anti-theft problems associated with doing the swap.
 

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FWIIW, the no crank issue is a different problem from the no fuel pump issue.

The no crank is NOT a PATS problem. It's a pure electric control/fuse issue.

Do you have a set of wiring diagrams? If not, I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

Since you can jump the stater solenoid to start it, let's consider that a secondary problem.

Onto the no start issue.

First, is the battery FULLY charged? Are all battery cables clean and tight? Are all of the grounds around the radiator core support attached?

First test. Confirm +12 volts to the IFS switch in the trunk with the key on. If no voltage, STOP. The problem is either the CCRM, fuel pump fuse, or ignition switch. It will never start until there is +12 volts at all times to the IFS switch. Don't even look at the fuel pump until voltage has been confirmed.

Likely we will need more information on what has been swapped and what has been retained. Not only do you have the different model year thing, there's the V6/V8 thing. There are differences in the wiring harness, PCM, and devices.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again for the support.

Like wmburns said, the theft link blinking doesn't indicate a PATS issue. If I am not mistaken the car should crank and the odometer should be dashed-----out if its a PATS issue.

wmburns,

I should have the wiring diagrams since I have the Haynes manual; need to check but they are probably in there.

I did install the CCRM from the gt. I hope it did not get damaged. I have had the fender off for sometime now and it's been raining. I wonder if that could have damaged it.

The battery wires are tight and the battery should have charge. Only other wire issues that scare me is under the dash and ones that I may have janked out during the removal of the aftermarket alarm.

I don't think every single ground is connected but most of them are. I have swapped maybe 98 percent of the parts into my v6 shell. I did not swapped the ABS system or brakes and the cabin harness that runs under the carpet.

It looks like I am buying a multimeter tomorrow. I've barely used one but I will learn to do so.

So how should I begin troubleshooting this animal?

many thanks,

tobe
 

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I should have the wiring diagrams since I have the Haynes manual; need to check but they are probably in there.
The wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual are NOT good enough for what you need. They are incomplete and general in nature. They do not contain the subtle model year differences that very well may prove to be the problem. Suggest reconsidering especially since time is important.
I don't think every single ground is connected but most of them are.
This could be important. There is a key ground behind the center dash. If not connectied, I could see several strange issues goin on. Same for the PCM. Every ground is important.
So how should I begin troubleshooting this animal?
In my opening post, I gave you the key test to start with. Results?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see what you mean about the vague diagrams. I also had finding the serpentine belt path for a 02 GT.

Ok would I need anything else to troubleshoot or just a multimeter will do? I am on my way to get buy the multimeter. Again, I am troubleshooting an electrical problem for the first time in my life :headscratch:

Thanks again
 

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IMO, you are one brave (foolish) soul to attempt such a project without a full set of wiring diagrams.

Also, a volt-Ohm meter (VOM) is an important tool. Will need something that does voltage measurements as will as resistance measurements.

Likely the bulk of your issues are going to be the not yet connected grounds followed by the wiring differences between the V6 and V8.

This is where the wiring diagrams are invaluable to compare what are the real differences between the versions and model years.

One difference is in the cooling fan. The V6 uses a single speed whereas the V8 uses a two speed fan. Frankly I don't know if there is a difference in the body harness for the V6.

There are also differences in how the V6 handles the AC high pressure cutoff. The V6 has a simple cut off whereas the V8 as a two step affair needed to switch the fan from low speed to high speed. Again, the subtle differences in the body harness could come into play.

Those are just a few of the differences between V6 and V8 that I'm aware of.

Made any progress on getting a voltage reading at the trunk IFS switch?

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The project was indeed reckless but I figured it might be close to plugnplay since I gutted the v6 and put everything from the v8. in the v6 shell.

The weather has been horrible so today hopefully I will be able to test out my new multimeter and test power to the IFS

I will keep you all posted and appreciate any help.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so after a few months of putting this project aside, we are back to it.

After re-wiring ignition wires, connecting a few grounds and installing a custom tune with the PATS disabled, the car cranks, turns on temporarily and then shuts down after a few seconds.

Even though the tune we uploaded has the PATS disabled, the cluster is throwing a d262 scp missing code.

do you think we need to double check for grounds? At this point we checked for fuel pressure and we have 42 psi. But again, the car turns on and then shuts off. I still believe the main engine ground is disconnected but at one point, we had jumpers connected to another car while selecting a ground point on the motor from the mustang itself.

I am using the ford service manual. Yet, I am still having issues troubleshooting since reading electric diagrams is not my strongest suit

please help
thx
 

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The "SCP missing code" means that the cluster and PCM are not talking to each other.

Have you mixed and matched cluster, PCM and wiring harness from different model years? If so, it's possible this is where the issue is.

It would also be handy to know what's happening when the motor quits. For example, does it die when going from "open loop" to "closed loop".

Do you have an ODB2 scanner?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
although we have kept the parts as organized as possible. It could be that the PCM was mismatched. I need to have this verified. One thing we did verify was that the IFS (rear fuel switch) was receive 12+ volts.

The car turned on for about 3-5 seconds after several crank. I would assume this is open loop especially since the o2's, or better yet, the entire exhaust is disconnected.

thx
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I forgot to mention. We have an SCT tuner which we can use an OBDII scanner. According to my friend, the only code that shows up is an o2 sensor related one. The v8 cluster it self generates the SCP message.
 

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You need to use a set of wiring diagrams to trouble shoot the SCP lines from the cluster to the PCM to the DLC port.

On the cluster pins 1 (TN/OG) and #2 (PK/LB) diagram 060-002.

PCM pin 16 and 15 from diagram 014-002.

DLC pin 2 and 1.

Since the ODB2 scanner works, focus on the cluster.
 

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A few more things. You never did respond to the questions about the source of various parts. The missing SCP messages to the cluster should NOT prevent the car from starting assuming that PATS is disabled in the PCM.

The missing cluster SCP messages WILL keep the cluster from working. We are talking about the tach, speedometer, temperature gauge, and most of the idiot lights. Remember that the PCM "tells" the cluster what to do via SCP messages.

On diagram 62-2, the SCP pins can be seen on connector C220b #1&#2. With the key off and battery disconnected, Ohm these lines out to the DLC connector. We are trying to confirm the wire path from the cluster to the DLC.

Use the ODB2 scanner to monitor operational data. Look at the PCM operating mode PID. Look to see if it changes from "open loop" to "closed loop" when the motor quits. In the same way, look at the RPM's and the fuel pressure.
 
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