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Well, I have a 1988 mustang foxbody hatchback and i love this car. But there is one issue I have wanted to address since day one, the weak 2.3 liter engine. So far I have gotten a 8.8 rear end installed in the car and new wheels and tires. But thats all so far at first i was just going to go with a stock block with top end kit thats it. But as I have done more research I realized what I really wanted is more horsepower than a top end kit and stock block could give me. So I choose the 4 bolt main 302 block, heads, cam, intake, and prcharger kit D-1SC shooting for at least twenty pounds of boost. What my questions are is what cam, heads, pistons, all internals would I need to go with money isnt that big of an issue I just a strong healthy motor. And any other recommendations please help thanks.
 

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i would try for forged internals, a good intercooled setup and water methanol injection.
 

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If you run meth you dont need an innercooler or after cooler. I would run a dart block with dished pistons. Forged internals, head studs etc. all a must. TFS190 heads with a custom cam and an Edelbrock intake would be good. However, I think you are lacking about $4k in suspension and brakes. Just so you know this is a $15k build.
 

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Going with a Dart block is your best move.

Based on your aspirations, you want all 4340 forged steel internals with forged pistons from the manufacturer of your choice. If you need a kit, these are good places to get one.

Powered By Ford - #1 Source for Mustang performance parts and Ford car or truck parts

Keith Craft Performance Engines

Kuntz and Company Website

Ford Performance Solutions

Bennett Racing 800.240.7223

Forged Piston | Stroker Kits | Crate Engines

As for heads, you want the best thing you can afford. I would suggest any of these.
AFR 205
TFS High Port CNC
Brodix T1
Dart Pro 1
Ford Racing Z304
World Products 200

For intake, you could go with these.
Holley Systemax II
TFS R series
Edelbrock Performer RPM II
Edlebrock Victor EFI
Weiand EFI (same as the Holley)
BBK R series

For the cam, forget about the cam until you decide on the rest of the engine combination.

Don't forget, putting an engine like you want into a car without the proper suspension is the move of a fool. You MUST improve the suspension when you do this.
 

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Hey Cindy, that is what I'm shooting for with my turbo build plans :p

Just to skip off what Spd was saying I have similar plans but on my budget its going to take me about 7-8 years to finish the car. I'm OK with that, because that means I have plenty of time for research. Not just picking parts but understanding why you're picking the parts and how a boosted internal combustion engine really works. There is so much technical knowledge to be had with how to properly put things together to make it put out 100% of its potential and to last a long time under such punishment. This sucker, with the research I've done, to be able to handle 20 lbs of boost you're talking about is going to run you 10-14k all in the engine. Then, add the cost of whatever supercharger you want. My estimate is sitting at 19k just in the engine, give or take.

Good luck to you.

363/347 Dart Iron Eagle Short Block with all forged internals 6K
TFS 225CC High Port heads 2.5K$
Edelbrock Super Victor EFI 600$
Now add studs everywhere, R/R's, a custom grind cam, the best gaskets you can buy, and porting work for the heads if you so choose. I'm probably missing some stuff of the top of my head.

Also, pick your compression ratio/what octane fuel/detonation deterrants wisely. Detonation can make all this go away with the turn of a single key.

Oh, and don't forget dyno tune cost. Before all of this, of course, you need some SERIOUS suspension work, custom drive shaft, a 3-3500$ transmission, a 9 IN rear end or some serious work on that 8.8. The list goes on and on and on and on.
 

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Just so you know this is a $15k build
this could never be a good thing, just imagine trying to sell a foxbody mustang for $20k . I have to admit mustang owners are low ballers, no offense but when I tried selling my first notchback, that I was just asking 1500 for it. they keep low balling my ass. I told all of them go f ur self’s and sold it for 500 to the next guy i saw.
 

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this could never be a good thing, just imagine trying to sell a foxbody mustang for $20k . I have to admit mustang owners are low ballers, no offense but when I tried selling my first notchback, that I was just asking 1500 for it. they keep low balling my ass. I told all of them go f ur self’s and sold it for 500 to the next guy i saw.

Those were either people trying to sell their Camaro to buy your stang or just the usually Craigslist hacks. Anyone who knows Mustangs and knows what to look for when buying a Mustang knows the value.
 

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And what transmission pray tell will you back up all this power with? ??????

I hope you rebuilt that rear end with parts other than stock to take all that power. ?????

Get ready to redo the whole fuel system also. ??????

Do you have a black card? :smartass::smartass:

Get to searching and reading in between doing your homework before you start a build like this one.
 

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Well, I have a 1988 mustang foxbody hatchback and i love this car. But there is one issue I have wanted to address since day one, the weak 2.3 liter engine. So far I have gotten a 8.8 rear end installed in the car and new wheels and tires. But thats all so far at first i was just going to go with a stock block with top end kit thats it. But as I have done more research I realized what I really wanted is more horsepower than a top end kit and stock block could give me. So I choose the 4 bolt main 302 block, heads, cam, intake, and prcharger kit D-1SC shooting for at least twenty pounds of boost. What my questions are is what cam, heads, pistons, all internals would I need to go with money isnt that big of an issue I just a strong healthy motor. And any other recommendations please help thanks.

Just keep in mind that when you start talking about forged four-bolt engines, 20psi, etc... the direction you're headed can easily cost $100,000+.

I'd recommend for you to take a look at some of my build articles (clicky):

P1

P2

P3

P4

P5

I've learned a lot along the way, and it's still not over, but in hindsight, I can say that UPR Products, ATI ProCharger, FRPP, Coast High Performance, Trick Flow Specialties, DYNAMIC Racing Transmissions, Strange Engineering, and many more companies were absolutely critical to the success of this build.

As me personally, I'd just say that you should be careful what you wish for... you might end up with something like this:
 

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Just keep in mind that when you start talking about forged four-bolt engines, 20psi, etc... the direction you're headed can easily cost $100,000+.

I'd recommend for you to take a look at some of my build articles (clicky):

P1

P2

P3

P4

P5

I've learned a lot along the way, and it's still not over, but in hindsight, I can say that UPR Products, ATI ProCharger, FRPP, Coast High Performance, Trick Flow Specialties, DYNAMIC Racing Transmissions, Strange Engineering, and many more companies were absolutely critical to the success of this build.

As me personally, I'd just say that you should be careful what you wish for... you might end up with something like this:
Why would I want a hoodless fast looking scary car that doesn't run :laugh::laugh::laugh: J/K

Did you work out all the little problems yet?
 

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Lol any project can get expensive, I mentioned water mether with an intercooler to keep temps down more especially since the reading i was doing in MM&FF had some dyno tests and water/meth with an intercooler was more potent and powerful than non intercooled water/meth
 

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price shop do your home work buy used when you can and set goals and stick with them and make your mind up on what you want street car / race car both or do you just want a dyno queen that makes big HP so you can chest thump and brag about dyno numbers and not care how fast it really is. some of the numbers here are a bit high and some of the stuff is just plain out there. As far as boost numbers who gives a flying F any how they are just a measurement of restriction any how. WHAT IT REALLY COMES DOWN TO IS HOW MUCH HP DO YOU WANT TO MAKE AND HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO! $$$$ FASTER $$$$$$$
 

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Lol any project can get expensive, I mentioned water mether with an intercooler to keep temps down more especially since the reading i was doing in MM&FF had some dyno tests and water/meth with an intercooler was more potent and powerful than non intercooled water/meth

All they needed to do was add more meth and tune it.
 

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Why would I want a hoodless fast looking scary car that doesn't run :laugh::laugh::laugh: J/K

Did you work out all the little problems yet?
I didn't say ANYONE would want a hoodless fast looking scary car that doesn't run... on the contrary, I warned the original poster that:

you should be careful what you wish for... you might end up with something like this

That said, the engine is going to MPR for piston rings next month, then Tig Vision is fabbing some new headers. It should be running next month.
 

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Maybe so, however I for one would prefer to be intercooled and have water/meth just in case.
 

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with all due respect you are dreaming...being 16 years old how in the world would you begin to pay for this build? Also any parent that would allow it should be locked up for neglect...keep driving your V6 so you will live to see 20
 

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heheheh.... I'm 26 with a great job and I have to scurry away my pennies to save up for the parts I want.
 
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