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Alright guys, I'm in the place that I know many people have been in while thinking of doing an engine swap. Do I go with the late model 302 or a 351w from a 94+ truck. Either engine I will do the same aftermarket parts most likely. A mild cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, aluminum heads (probably TW 170cc). So what's the real advantages and disadvantages of each. With the same parts as listed above would the 351w get more hp? which one will drop in with the least problems? I heard some exhaust modifications need to be made for the 351. Is that a big deal? You guys know more than me, so tell me hat I should be concerned about, and tell me what you would do in my situation.
 
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hi,

the 351 will beat the 302 worse than a group of baby fur seal hunters will beat a baby fur seal on opening day of hunting season.

keep you compression above 9.5

it will need at least 3.43 gears and a 2000 stall converter to be impressive

please buy afr renegade heads.
 

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How dare you sir. How dare you. Thank goodness I logged in to look for some seat belt info (LOL). Let's say you were being bullied. Would you want your little brother or your BIG brother to beat up the bully? That's right. Your big brother. The one with the 351W tattoo on his bicep. I can only assume you are speaking of putting this in your 69. On that I cannot comment other than to say the mods required can't be that bad. If it were a fox body I could comment further. Someone on here has done this swap and will be able to help you with the details. Also, no mild cams allowed. You would be kicking yourself in the rear, which, is hard to do and makes it all the more unpleasant. Godspeed.
 

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I'm interested in the same thing, but for a 66 Mustang, that's just a shell, so I have a clean slate. No need to get into fitment issues for me, I know the 351 would fit, but with plenty of problems because of the shock towers. I'm leaning towards buying a crate engine, it seems they are a bit cheaper than buying a block, having it machined and building it yourself. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I live in Connecticut so machine shops tend to be very expensive. My other thought was buying a lower mileage fox body mustang, under 100K, to steal the block and selling the shell for someone else to use.
 
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I'm interested in the same thing, but for a 66 Mustang, that's just a shell, so I have a clean slate. No need to get into fitment issues for me, I know the 351 would fit, but with plenty of problems because of the shock towers. I'm leaning towards buying a crate engine, it seems they are a bit cheaper than buying a block, having it machined and building it yourself. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I live in Connecticut so machine shops tend to be very expensive. My other thought was buying a lower mileage fox body mustang, under 100K, to steal the block and selling the shell for someone else to use.
the engine will clear the shock towers with cast iron ex but it will touch the steering box. a little grinding here and there and you are ok.
 
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thinking of doing an engine swap. Do I go with the late model 302 or a 351w from a 94+ truck.

which one will drop in with the least problems?
the 351 uss the same bell housing, flex plate, trans. the metal engine mounts in the body are the same.

just need 351 windsor alt and ps brackets and rubber eng mounts.

since the 351 is a late model you need timing cover, and pulleys.



I heard some exhaust modifications need to be made for the 351. Is that a big deal?
nope, just an hour at the muffler shop and 80.00 to connect your head pipes


PS - A 351w was an option for 69 and early 70 so it easily fits.
 

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I would then use it to run down the baby seal fur hunters; not nice dudes.
 
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Oh my...did someone say huntin season started? . Please help me, I don't want to be a Lindsay Lohan fur coat!
.
 

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If I was starting over, and building an engine from scratch, no way I'd ever go 302, 351 all the way. In my case, I found a used motor, which was a 302, so I was ok with that. The 94+ 5.8 locks are my #1 choice. However, be very careful, the roller 351 blocks have developed an epidemic of cracking. There is a lot of information on this, which you can search for. If you do get a 351 roller block, have the builder carefully inspect the block for cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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Oh my...did someone say huntin season started? . Please help me, I don't want to be a Lindsay Lohan fur coat!
.
hahaha :gringreen
 

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Discussion Starter #12
v8Only, Thanks for the heads up. I will be the one building it, so where could I take it to get it checked. Don't machine shops have a thing that scans for cracks or something? How much would you think that's cost?
 

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Yes they do...when you get the machine work done, just make sure they check it for cracks..shouldn't cost much.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay cool. So if I took a 351w out of a truck I'm going to have to get it machined no matter what? What all has to be machined when building an engine with a block from a donor car? Thanks for all the help:)
 
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hello;

unless the shop has a zillion dollars for an x ray machine they simply put some pretty sulfer colored iron powder on it the stick a big electro magnet on it to check it. the magnet causes the powder to align along the crack, pretty cool to see just as long as it is someone elses engine.

wrecking yards give warranties against cracks on engines.

1. it must be bored out

2. check the block surface for being flat. i used to do it for free, some places might charge 20.00 for 3 minutes worth of work.

3. the journals in the block for the crank are most likely fine but have them check them for straightness if you are worried.

4. never bore an engine more than .040. less is better. it reduces the potential for overheating and the need for a $1000.00 cooling system.

5. you must, must, must calculate your compression and get it to around 9.5 - 9.7 with iron heads or 10.0 - 10.5 with aluminumm heads to optimize perf on 91 - 93 octane or e85 corn gas.

6. you must have a minimum of 3.25 gears and a 2000 rpm stall conv. if you do very little 70 mph fwy driving then 3.43 - 3.55 otherwise it will be a pig off the line. gears are just as important as hp.

CAMS - A custom one from bullet cams is nice. a comp cams xe268h is popular but kinda mild. if you really want to feel hp and have a bit of a high perf lope and spin some tires you need at least an xe274h. anything bigger than this is pretty serious. roller lifter cams are nice.

ROCKERS - Scorpion "race" roller rockers.

CARB - Annular booster type in the 650 - 725 range with vacuum secondfaries.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow, I really appreciate you giving me all of that info and suggestions. Should I still go for 10 - 10.5 compression if I'm only going to be running on 87 unleaded gas. You've been a lot of help!
 
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Wow, I really appreciate you giving me all of that info and suggestions. Should I still go for 10 - 10.5 compression if I'm only going to be running on 87 unleaded gas. You've been a lot of help!
hello;

no prob.

87 octane and performance engine should not be in the same sentence. if you want both then you must have a 351.

for 87 octane with aluminum heads you can run around 9.5 if you 0 deck the block.

in that case, the cam might be an xe268h, the xe274h is too much.

same 3.43 - 350 gears and 2000 - 2200 rpm stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
alright I appreciate the fast response! I'll do that then because I definitely could not afford the constant filling up of premium. Currently I fill up once every 1-1.5 weeks depending on how much I drive. And Yes I have made the decision to go with the 351w :) Plus that sounds cooler than a 302 hahaha
 
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hello;

well if you have a stock 302 the 351 will get much worse mileage. if you put in 3.43 - 3.50 it will get worse mileage. you can't have your cake and eat it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
hello;

well if you have a stock 302 the 351 will get much worse mileage. if you put in 3.43 - 3.50 it will get worse mileage. you can't have your cake and eat it too.
yeah :/ sucks that you can have good mileage and a bad ass engine in one. Unless you think of the coyote which gets pretty good mileage for 412hp engine. Right now I get around 8 miles to the gallon. Is there even any room for it to get worse lol
 
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