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i have a 1989 hatch with a stock 302ho i would like to stroke it to a 331 and put a set of 205cc afr heads and a mild mid-high rpm comp cam a cobra upper and lower intake with a bbk cold air and a k&n at the end of that with a high presser low volum oil pump and full msd with 2 and 3 step igniton and i was wondering whats a good crank rods pistons lifters spec on the cams headers exaust oil pan brand oil pump and what parts i need to get to beef up the t-5 to handle it and if the stock block cold handle it after i bore it out and have it magnifluxed pretty much have a good idea but need to fill in all the spaceses and what im missing and im on a little budget and i know how much frame work and suspention work i will need for this power but this is a project car and im hoping with a little time i could have 400+ out of it tell me what u think im open for any sugestion and any advice and i want a weekend car for the strip and the road in the end
 

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I am doing a similar project with the afr 185's I went low compression heads because I want to go higher boost with a twin screw Kenne Bell.

I read a few posts where people were taking their high volume oil pumps out. Don't really remember why.

Canton oil pan (7 quart) is the way I plan on going, but with a standard volume oil pump.

There are many places to get your stroker kit from. I posted last week and most everyone responded DSS Racing, Ford Stroker and someone mentioned CHP.

Shocks, struts, springs, bushings, subframe connectors, strut tower brace, fuel pump, torque box (welding or reinforcement), brakes, girdle, fuel injectors, mass air meter, throttle body, timing chain, water pump Etc. will probably need upgrading if they are still factory.

With a setup like that I would probably have a cam custom ground, just costs a few bucks more.

400 ponies is expensive as I have found out.

I read that the cobra manifold is good for around 350 hp. so you will probably need something that flows a bit more. Look to one of the big three for something more free flowing.

I'm not sure what framework you mean unless it is subframe connectors, K member brace and strut tower brace.

I would suggest long tube headers with a shorty H pipe if emissions are not a problem. Otherwise go shorty headers.

Stock block can handle a good bit of power with a girdle (read around 450-500, but I don't think I would be beating on it with 500 ponies often).

What is your budget? Is it a set amount that you have right now or do you spend a little as you earn it and is your car a daily driver? This will help determine where you should start.

Mine is not a daily driver so the motor and trany are sitting next to it right now.

If you plan to drive it while working on it then I would start with suspension, brakes, then do motor and tranny at the same time. If you are going to buy a short block which I have found to be almost as cheap as trying to build it myself after paying for all the machine work. (Plus if you buy a short block that you are turning into a performance machine you can sell your existing long block for a few hundred to offset the price).

I know there are companies out there that sell heavy duty parts for trannies, but I have an AOD and the site I have been looking at does not fool with T5's. You may be better off upgrading to a TKO 500. Call around to the transmission shops in your area let them know your performance goal and see if they are interested. If so get a detailed list of what they suggest and post it back along with the price. I'm sure someone will tell you if it is a good deal.

Just don't fall into the trap of buying a part for now then having to buy another part to replace it later.

I hoped I helped

Aaron

PS I jacked my car sky high so I could clean and spray the bottom of the car with a rust inhibitor and paint. The fenders are coming off so I can attempt to hide as many wires as I can, then the engine bay is getting painted. There is no point in spending this much money and leaving it half done.
 

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the car is a daily driver now but in august i will getting a motorcycle for colidge and ill be getting a second job to save as much money as possible so ill be driving it for the summer if it makes it .it has been runnung really ruff and it need some work and tlc to last the summer
 
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you maybe better going with 185's

with a stroker i would advice going with a custom grind cam rather than one off the shelf......
 

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the car is a daily driver now but in august i will getting a motorcycle for colidge and ill be getting a second job to save as much money as possible so ill be driving it for the summer if it makes it .it has been runnung really ruff and it need some work and tlc to last the summer

Sorry couldn't help myself. :gringreen

If you are going to school then I would focus on that. Leave the mustang alone or you will fail out. Right now I am trying to fit in my mustang when I can and I don't have homework.

Expect to pay several thousand bucks to do the project right. Get it running good and let it be until you have the money saved. Two jobs in college and the project sounds extremely difficult.
 

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Sorry couldn't help myself. :gringreen

If you are going to school then I would focus on that. Leave the mustang alone or you will fail out. Right now I am trying to fit in my mustang when I can and I don't have homework.

Expect to pay several thousand bucks to do the project right. Get it running good and let it be until you have the money saved. Two jobs in college and the project sounds extremely difficult.
Buzzkill... :nogrinner
Although you are right. Building a 400HP car is EXPENSIVE to do the right way. You pretty much have to redo everything on the car... suspension, chassis, and engine.

I agree with Reggie though... stick with the 185's.
 

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The 205's will make lots of power and it'll run fine but chances are for that additional power you'll get in the upper rpms, you'll lose some bottom end torque. For a street engine, you'd do better with 180-195cc intake ports. There's other factors as well but that's one important facet you need to consider.
 

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i just got done building and installing my 331, i used a fully balanced eagle stroker kit with forged rods and pistons, high compression 10.5:1, afr 185's with the 2.02 intake valves and used the trickflow street heat upper and lower intake i had laying around, lunati voodoo series 61011 cam,scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, moroso 7qt oil pan and moroso recommened oil pickup tube4, had to get a new aluminum block plate that was custom made to fit the pan, melling 68HV pump which is high volume and slightly higher pressure, in my opinion if you had to choose one i would go with the high volume had to upgrade to the 30lb/hr injectors and make sure you get the right mass air to match, im in the process of breaking in the engine but im expecting atleast 400hp I HOPE lol after all that money oh and a spec stage 2 clutch
 

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331 stroker kit from Keith Craft, Victor Jr intake, Holley 750, X303 cam, 200 shot NOS kit, MSD ignition system, 3" exhaust, Tremec 3550, etc, etc,, AFR 185 heads.
 

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i have a 1989 hatch with a stock 302ho i would like to stroke it to a 331 and put a set of 205cc afr heads and a mild mid-high rpm comp cam a cobra upper and lower intake with a bbk cold air and a k&n at the end of that with a high presser low volum oil pump and full msd with 2 and 3 step igniton and i was wondering whats a good crank rods pistons lifters spec on the cams headers exaust oil pan brand oil pump and what parts i need to get to beef up the t-5 to handle it and if the stock block cold handle it after i bore it out and have it magnifluxed pretty much have a good idea but need to fill in all the spaceses and what im missing and im on a little budget and i know how much frame work and suspention work i will need for this power but this is a project car and im hoping with a little time i could have 400+ out of it tell me what u think im open for any sugestion and any advice and i want a weekend car for the strip and the road in the end
You will need high volume, not high pressure. or am i backwards?
 
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