[bl817]

alright guys heres where im at, ive got everything i need for the install and have swapped the Dplug off the newer harness for the old one (yel/wt to yel/wt, gr/rd to gr/rd, wt/bk has stator plug) i have a fuse block for the bat cable as well. ive read lots of posts on what to do next. some say to cut the 2 bk/or wires at fused link but these both go into one green wire that is bolted to the starter solenoid (this right?) my starter solenoid also looks diffrent than the ones in the pics ive seen. i still need to make the 4guage wires that go from the post on the back of the alternator to the fuse block and then to the Batt post on the solenoid. do i need to move the green wire that has the 2 /bk/or wires to a diffrent post or eliminate them all together? dont want to hook everything up and fry something, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. oh yeah car is a 93 2.3

 

[mg man 75]

Unsure on a 93. But on my 89 I used a I think 96 Ford f-100 wiring. All the wires go to the starter solinoid except the green with red stripe. It hooked to a green with red stripe. Here is wiring diagram for the 3G
http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/3G-ALT_wiring.gif
Site and more info. Maurice
Ford Fuel Injection » Alternator Files

 

[bl817]

thanks for the reply mgman, i did get it installed and the only thing i didnt do was run a positive off the alt stud to the yellow/white wire, i did some reading and seen that that was the easiest way to let the alt to see 12 volts. other than that the work was grinding the mount. also like a post before, my alt is hot to the touch, hope its not gonna crap out on me.

 

[mg man 75]

I would run power to that wire. Per the wiring diagram yellow/white is battery voltage. That goes by the wiring diagram to voltage sensing circuit. That is usually what tells the alt where battery is charged or needs charged. Maurice

 

[NavySVO]

contact PA performance. They specialize in conversions of this sort. They have premade wiring (not expensive either) and provide simple, easy to follow instructions.

You also need to have an inline fuse. If you get the wiring kit, it is included

PA Performance- You only buy quality once!- 877-471-8010

 

[ranger50toy]

Is it worthe the effort to go to the 95 amp 3G or just go 130?

 

[bl817]

i would say it depends on the current draw your planning i.e. big stereo etc. also how much work ya want to do. the 95 amp will bolt right up because it has a smaller case. with the 130 amp, you will have to do some grinding to the bracket to get it to fit. it was well worth it in my opinion to go with the 130. everything is done and i have brighter lights and no more drain while in idle with the ac/blower/lights running. as ppl have said before, its cheap and one of the best upgrades you can do and very easy. i will say for ppl with the dual plug 2.3 that you can remove the whole 2 plug blk/org wires from the starter solenoid and just run the yellow/white wire to the post on the back of the alternator with the larger 4 guage charge wire. makes things alot simpler. very simple. as mgman has linked a post to this. the dual plug cars are just like the 5.0 cars except the alt is on the opposite side of the engine. i aquired a new Dplug from the junkyard as well as the 130 amp alt off a 95 3.8 mustang. honestly the grinding of the bracket is the worst part. unplug your 2g alt and get rid of the 2 blk/org wires all the way to the solenoid, hook grn/red to grn/red and run a 4 guage wire with fuse to battery side of starter solenoid, yellow/white goes to post on back of alt with ring terminal and your done!!!! easy easy. good luck

 

[bl817]

sorry for the repeated post but forgot to mention that you will need a 4 guage wire from the post off the alt to the battery side of the starter solenoid with inline fuse (100 amp or better), the post on the alt is also where you will run your yellow/white wire (voltage sense)