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Discussion Starter #1
alright, so as i am tearing aaway through all kinds of stroker kits on the internet, i realize i cannto make sense of any of it. so i am looking for some help my friends.

I was wondering what all has to be done to make an engine capable of handling up to ~600 hp

how do i stroke an 4.6 to a 5.0


how much does it cost? (i dont know all the parts that are needed, pretty much, i know that connecting rods, pistons and a crankshaft are inorder, but after that i am lost.


thats for everyone in advance. eventually i would love to start tearing into my engine, and create a beast. i figure now would eb the time to start teaching myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you need a 3.75'' forged crank,forged h beam rods and forged pistons.get a kit.:bigthumbsup
im sorry if this is a stupid question, but i simply do not know.

is it the size of the crank that will determine the displacement?

any particular brand i should look for? i understand livernois is a good company. im assuming they could hook me up?
 

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eagle makes some too im not sure how good they are though
 

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You are going to need a blower to make that kind of power. And there are only a few that will do it without a lot of trouble. The KB, Procharger and Vortech come to mind. Going the blower route will require you to get forged internals for the shortblock. You could get a stroker, but strokers technically weaken the block because of the removed material and the different loads placed o it because of the geometry of the stroker crank. The good news is that making 600rwhp is a piece of cake without stroking the motor so you can have your cake and eat it too.

Why go stroker and add potential problems when you can make 600hp with 4.6L with no trouble at all?

Besides, you are going to be spending a fortune making 600hp anyway, no need to spend money you don’t need too.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You are going to need a blower to make that kind of power. And there are only a few that will do it without a lot of trouble. The KB, Procharger and Vortech come to mind. Going the blower route will require you to get forged internals for the shortblock. You could get a stroker, but strokers technically weaken the block because of the removed material and the different loads placed o it because of the geometry of the stroker crank. The good news is that making 600rwhp is a piece of cake without stroking the motor so you can have your cake and eat it too.

Why go stroker and add potential problems when you can make 600hp with 4.6L with no trouble at all?

Besides, you are going to be spending a fortune making 600hp anyway, no need to spend money you don’t need too.;)
good to know, i was under the impression stroking it would make life a little more simple.

i plan on F/I far down the road, since i rarely have much money to play with. But when i do go F/I i am looking at the Powerhouse turbo system.

so scrapping the stroker, just forged internals would be alright? they all ask for bore and information that i have no clue on. which is why i am asking. (i think i was combining stroker and forged in my mind)
 

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i plan on F/I far down the road, since i rarely have much money to play with. But when i do go F/I i am looking at the Powerhouse turbo system.
Well 600 shouldn't be a big deal with that.:D

so scrapping the stroker, just forged internals would be alright?
Plenty.:bigthumbsup

they all ask for bore and information that i have no clue on. which is why i am asking. (i think i was combining stroker and forged in my mind)
Who asked you for the bore of a 4.6?:headscratch:
 

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If money is an issue Stroking it wont be cheap.I think people are assuming that a stroker kit is some simple bolt on part. There is a ton of labor in stroking your engine.
Also stroking the engine wont make the car a 400hp monster. You will need heads, cams, and other boltons to get to 400hp.

I say it again. A blower will be the easiest way to get big power out of these cars. There are many people that are running lower boost levels on stock internal engines and alot have lasted many years and track runs.
 

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they all ask for bore and information that i have no clue on. which is why i am asking.
Bore is 3.55 in. Stroke is 3.54 in. in our 4.6 engines.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #11
If money is an issue Stroking it wont be cheap.I think people are assuming that a stroker kit is some simple bolt on part. There is a ton of labor in stroking your engine.
Also stroking the engine wont make the car a 400hp monster. You will need heads, cams, and other boltons to get to 400hp.

I say it again. A blower will be the easiest way to get big power out of these cars. There are many people that are running lower boost levels on stock internal engines and alot have lasted many years and track runs.
i never expected it to be cheap. i planned on saving up for the engine internals, and then hopefully in the next couple years, do the turbo. I have some rather short term goals of hitting 325 after i do exhaust and all that (in anticipation for the turbo) but dont really plan on creating a monster for quite some time.

and want to get forged internals before i do boost, since if i have the itch, i can just turn up the boost with no worry of destroying something.
 
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i may be getting confused yet again, but it says .020 over?


NVM! i was looking at livernois' 4.6 4valve, which said .020 over.

New - Livernois Motorsports - 4.6L 3-Valve Standad Rotating Assembly


that one has the option for .020 over, is there any point in this? or could i just get the 3-Valve Roots/Turbo 9.1:1 Compression Rotating Assembly, and call it just as good?

.020 over means that the bore has been increased by .020 inches. If you are going to build an F/I enginge you will wont to keep compression down...just in case it hasn't been put out there for you yet. Personally, I would go with a stroker kit and increase the displacement. Its a minimal increase in cost and you are already going to tear into the engine anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so, going .020 over in anticipation for turbo would be a good thing. correct?
 

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your best bet without a doubt would be to buy a shortblock from say MMR or livernois and then look into F/I later down the road. Actually now that i think about it do forced induction first would be best. You can run a safe tune and make 400rwhp which will be like daylight and dark for what u have now. Then later on buy a shortblock from mmr or livernois and bolt that same blower on and then turn the boost up and make 800 hp if want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
your best bet without a doubt would be to buy a shortblock from say MMR or livernois and then look into F/I later down the road. Actually now that i think about it do forced induction first would be best. You can run a safe tune and make 400rwhp which will be like daylight and dark for what u have now. Then later on buy a shortblock from mmr or livernois and bolt that same blower on and then turn the boost up and make 800 hp if want it.
hmmm that sounds like quite the plan!

sometimes i wish i just had another 20k to play with this thing!! ohwell, seems that will take quite a while.
 

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Im hoping Brenspeed will make their own shortblocks. When I had my blower installed there one of the guys was saying they were thinking of making Brenspeed shortblocks. Just in the idea stage now I guess. Id buy one. Those guys have been pretty cool to me. And I trust that they would only produce a quality engine.
Right now if my rods wanted to be liberated from the block Id say I would go with an MMR, Livernois, JDM(298) or FRPP Aluminator shortblock. Im hoping my engine lives a long happy life though.
 

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I can understand you wanting to do the wrench work yourself, but quite frankly, if you don't know the difference between an un-bored block and one that has been bored .020 over, I dont' know if taking on an engine build is for you. Start smaller.. get a Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed and bolt it on. Then go to the track and start socializing with people who build, and learn from there.

The reason to bore an engine out is typically because the cylinder walls are worn (lots of miles), or damaged. You can bore an engine out for more displacement, but it does weaken the walls, so if the block is new or only has a few thousand miles on it, just hone the walls and install regular sized pistons.

Yes, the crank will determine the stroke, and contrary to what a couple people say here, you can get a stroker kit that requires very little machining (if any at all). In the past, if you wanted to build a stroker, you would start with a crank from a larger displacement motor and have it machined to work in your block. Then you would have to pay careful attention to the clearances, sometimes machining the block, and sometimes having to machine the pistons to clear the valves. It was very custom work back then, but these days you can buy everything you need, already machined, right off the shelf and as long as you buy from one place, it will most likely all work together.

Usually, a stroker cannot handle the RPM that a stock setup can.. The crank has more mass and is usually machined pretty close to the max size you can squeeze, and that never goes good with high revs. However, unless you are going for 20+ psi boost and massive power, there is no reason not to go with a stroked engine.

As was mentioned, if you want to go FI in the future, you want to build for it, which means lower compression. However, that means lower power when naturally aspirated. By doing a stroker, you can make up for the lower compression with more displacement, giving you decent performance now with the option for much much more in the future.

However, like I said in the beginning, if you are going to burn through $4k building a motor, I would recommend you start with a basic blower and go from there. That way you get 400+ rwhp now, and will know a lot better how much more you want to spend down the road for another 200 hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I can understand you wanting to do the wrench work yourself, but quite frankly, if you don't know the difference between an un-bored block and one that has been bored .020 over, I dont' know if taking on an engine build is for you. Start smaller.. get a Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed and bolt it on. Then go to the track and start socializing with people who build, and learn from there.

The reason to bore an engine out is typically because the cylinder walls are worn (lots of miles), or damaged. You can bore an engine out for more displacement, but it does weaken the walls, so if the block is new or only has a few thousand miles on it, just hone the walls and install regular sized pistons.

Yes, the crank will determine the stroke, and contrary to what a couple people say here, you can get a stroker kit that requires very little machining (if any at all). In the past, if you wanted to build a stroker, you would start with a crank from a larger displacement motor and have it machined to work in your block. Then you would have to pay careful attention to the clearances, sometimes machining the block, and sometimes having to machine the pistons to clear the valves. It was very custom work back then, but these days you can buy everything you need, already machined, right off the shelf and as long as you buy from one place, it will most likely all work together.

Usually, a stroker cannot handle the RPM that a stock setup can.. The crank has more mass and is usually machined pretty close to the max size you can squeeze, and that never goes good with high revs. However, unless you are going for 20+ psi boost and massive power, there is no reason not to go with a stroked engine.

As was mentioned, if you want to go FI in the future, you want to build for it, which means lower compression. However, that means lower power when naturally aspirated. By doing a stroker, you can make up for the lower compression with more displacement, giving you decent performance now with the option for much much more in the future.

However, like I said in the beginning, if you are going to burn through $4k building a motor, I would recommend you start with a basic blower and go from there. That way you get 400+ rwhp now, and will know a lot better how much more you want to spend down the road for another 200 hp.
thankyou! tons of information that is extremely useful to me.

i think i will take your advice, and since i think i have decided on a turbo, rather than a blower, i think i will just save up the rest i need (a couple grand) and order it, i have a lot of friends and people on a local forum that know tons about turbo installations, and i think they can help me (one actually has a turbo s197, which he installed and had a friend tune, but i will be going to a professional for tuning) i figure low boost (i think 8 PSI puts me at something like 415) will do me in for a long time, and then when i save up enough for forged internal (probably a livernois set, since i have never heard anything negative about them, either customer service or product wise) i will pick that up, and look at either upgrading turbo, or just turning up the boost. the forged internals, i do not consider my level so i will be taking that to a local mustang shop.

I'm quite excited, and now i am just hoping i can sell my project car, and old truck soon!! if so, then the week after them, the turbo kit will be in the mail!
 
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