[nick5.0d]

I am building a 5.0 engine over the winter with hopes to drop it into a fox over the summer. I will be grabbing a 5.0 from the junkyard after great inspection, re-ring the bottom end but leave it stock. Doing the classic h/c/i on top. Obviously I am on a budget and my goals are a street car that can win some races when taunted.

-So far I know I want to go with an e303 cam (streetable/cheap)
-About to buy a Professional Products 54020 upper and lower intake (solid upgrade/cheap)
-I will do 70mm tb and spacer with a fender mounted intake, under drive pulleys, full exhaust and all the little additive extras
-My main question is about the heads. Not having the money for AFR or TF, but wanting something more than a cobra/explorer. I know some brands like RHS, Flo-Tek, Pro Comp but I have no idea on sizes, whats right with the settup or what.

Taking all opinions here on where I could improve on the whole settup or what heads will work best with the budget/build. Also estimated power output? Thanks you guys!

 

[STREET 4RD]

Are emissions or smog an issue where you are? Edelbrock have a proven head that are street legal. 1.90 intake 1.60 exhaust valves. I think new $1200.

 

[nick5.0d]

I have to pass emissions but then I plan to get an off road x/h pipe and such. Edelbrock is up in that price range with TF and such, kind of out of my budget

 

[sporty12]

Get a good set of heads, or the other parts you listed won't be worth much as far as making horsepower. A good set of heads will make horsepower in a small block ford. Spend your money on good heads and build the 5.0 back with stock cam intake and t.b. This is my opinion and what I would do on a limited budget.

 

[MelloStang]

make sure to Mic then pastigauge the bottom end to be sure its ok if not get it 10/10 and whoever cuts it have them get the bearings you will be good to go

 

[firstfox]

Do u have the car yet or r u just building a motor for a car u plan on buying?

 

[87frankenstang]

Just a fore warning, if you plan on re-ringing it make sure you check the cylinder wall wear. I'm just going by what my engine builder told me. My original plan was to have them do what you intend and just re-ring it and use the stock pistons. But after they checked the cylinder wall "roundness" they said that if they just put rings in it wouldn't last. So it had to get bored .30 over and new pistons installed. My motor had in the neighborhood of 150,000 miles. Or a very rough 50,000...lol cant tell with these five figure odometers.

I mean, yeah the shop could have just told me that to get more money but I doubt it. They are very well known by me and literally the only shop worth a damn according to everyone I have asked.

 

[nick5.0d]

Motor first, then find a foxbody roller I can put it in. And yeah I plan to do an inspection like that. I hope I wont have to get it bored and new bottom end cause that is not in the budget. Junkyard gives like 15 dollar insurance on engines where you can bring back if there is a major problem like that, so I have a backup plan for a bad engine.

 

[87frankenstang]

Motor first, then find a foxbody roller I can put it in. And yeah I plan to do an inspection like that. I hope I wont have to get it bored and new bottom end cause that is not in the budget. Junkyard gives like 15 dollar insurance on engines where you can bring back if there is a major problem like that, so I have a backup plan for a bad engine.

I would make sure you and the junkyard are on the same page. I can see them covering a cooked motor yeah or a motor that has a spun bearing or snapped rod. But If you bring back a motor that ran, and worked fine, in pieces and tell them the cylinders were worn a bit out of spec they may tell you to take a hike.

And if the bores are indeed out of spec, getting new pistons is about all you need to do after you get the block bored and honed from a local machine shop. A quick search online shows that forged pistons run as low as 250$ NEW. Unless you vastly overstress them, or spin a bearing the crank and rods typically never "wear out" under proper conditions.

You can get a new set of pistons for under 100$ if you are willing to use hypoeutectic ones. But keep in mind those are not ideal for power adders, AKA boost or nitrous.

If I could go back I would probably do what you are doing and build the motor myself. But I chickened out and had a shop do the work for me. I just spent alot money on the parts I bought and didn't want to risk ruining it with a screw up.... I did rebuild my trans though. If that holds up then I will trust myself with an engine next time.

 

[nick5.0d]

I would make sure you and the junkyard are on the same page. I can see them covering a cooked motor yeah or a motor that has a spun bearing or snapped rod. But If you bring back a motor that ran, and worked fine, in pieces and tell them the cylinders were worn a bit out of spec they may tell you to take a hike.

And if the bores are indeed out of spec, getting new pistons is about all you need to do after you get the block bored and honed from a local machine shop. A quick search online shows that forged pistons run as low as 250$ NEW. Unless you vastly overstress them, or spin a bearing the crank and rods typically never "wear out" under proper conditions.

You can get a new set of pistons for under 100$ if you are willing to use hypoeutectic ones. But keep in mind those are not ideal for power adders, AKA boost or nitrous.

If I could go back I would probably do what you are doing and build the motor myself. But I chickened out and had a shop do the work for me. I just spent alot money on the parts I bought and didn't want to risk ruining it with a screw up.... I did rebuild my trans though. If that holds up then I will trust myself with an engine next time.

You're probably right about the junkyard and an issue with just the cylinder. And I always thought I would have to get a new rotating assembly, but just pistons does not sound too bad at all. I will have to see what I get later on and assess my situation from there, many thanks for that input.

Update on the build I actually just got an Edelbrock Performer upper and lower of craigslist with less than 2k miles on it for 300 bucks. Absolute steal. Working on a set of the same thing but heads off craigslist too, I might go this weekend to take a look.

I cant wait to build the engine up. I know it will take longer than I have planned for it and I will be spending more than anticipated too... but i'm sure my dad and I will get it right and it'll be that much more satisfying

 

[Smurf stang]

Well the motor is more of a "take it to a machine shop" thing as it has to get checked out pretty well. Also if you get a 5.0 out of a mustang you will have decent crank, good rods and good pistons if it all checks out.

I do not see RHS heads being much cheaper than the other ones listed.

Also I would suggest having any used heads purchased checked out by a machine shop also.

 

[HandOverFist]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h606p30

 

[87frankenstang]

Oh yeah, Craigslist is the way to go. I got my track heat upper and lower, comp rockers, BBK fuel rail, and patriot heads with triple springs , freshly rebuilt for 900$. I doubt I'll ever find a deal like that again. I suppose that's also why I went with a shop for the motor. I had unexpected cash laying around after that steal on the heads so I figured I'd get it done professionally

 

[ItalianM4fia]

I just built my engine and was gonna go with the E303 cam but after much research I went with a custom grind comp cam specs r 224/230 and .544/.544
AFR165 heads with 7/16 stud mount part number 1402
Stock bottom end stock Pistons and I clayed the Pistons to make sure the valves wouldn't hit... The exhaust touched the clay but the intake didn't but still had over .100" clearance

So for the price of a letter cam look into a comp cam
Basically this came in using is slightly better then The X303 cam

 

[nick5.0d]

Yeah I am now re-thinking my cam choice. With recent purchases of parts I didn't think I would have the money for, I don't think the e303 will bring out all of their potential. Gotta think about it more when the time comes.

Might be picking up a cleaned 91 bottom end with 50k miles on it for 200 dollars next weekend, I'll keep postin

 

[ItalianM4fia]

Yeah I am now re-thinking my cam choice. With recent purchases of parts I didn't think I would have the money for, I don't think the e303 will bring out all of their potential. Gotta think about it more when the time comes.

Might be picking up a cleaned 91 bottom end with 50k miles on it for 200 dollars next weekend, I'll keep postin

Ya defiantly research cams!! Lol learn about them I also talked with other pros and they were all saying that the cam choice I went with should be a safe max I could go for piston to valve clearance with stock Pistons and the afr165s

Did u pick up any heads yet?
The motor I picked up had the bottom end rebuilt 20,000kms ago
My afr's costed me like 1500$ I went with afr because the trick flow twisted wedge heads wouldn't allow me to run such a big cam because of the valve placement I guess they don't line up with the relief cuts

 

[nick5.0d]

Okay build is going good. Got the short block, edelbrock RPM upper and lower intake (and everything listed up top). Now I will be hunting the RPM heads to match which might take a while. Question is cam. Will the e303 bring out the potential of these products or should I chose another? Trick flow, Comp, ect. Or are the brand names just siking me out and e303 will produce results.

Want to run 1.6 rr and have stock pistons and the heads will be 1.90 intake. If a bigger cam will clear but I need better springs let me know. All opinions appreciated!

 

[nick5.0d]

My afr's costed me like 1500$ I went with afr because the trick flow twisted wedge heads wouldn't allow me to run such a big cam because of the valve placement I guess they don't line up with the relief cuts

A guy by me on craigslist is selling freshly machined AFR 165's for $900, assembled. Not sure the millage on them before. Would these even match my intake manifold? I do not want to deal with port matching.

 

[ItalianM4fia]

I have afr 165 they r a proven head...

Cam is never a for sure thing u need to make sure u have proper piston to valve clearance by claying the Pistons...
I have the afr 165s with stock Pistons and my cam specs r 224/230 .544/.544 which is slightly better then the x303 cam... I went out on a limb getting this comp cam and it turned out that I had enuf clearance when I clayed the Pistons... U can also advance the cam to gain exhaust clearnace but that in turn reduces I take clearance or u can send the cam back to get some duration ground off

 

[ItalianM4fia]

Rpm intake will match up nicely with the afr heads.... If u look on afr website they suggest the use of the rpm intake... Also find out the part number of those afr heads
I have 1402 on my engine and mine r 7/16 stud mount for more strength over pedestal mount