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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry guys, I posted another thread but had no luck... hoping this will be better.

My transmission has been making some noise and rattling so I'm trying to find out why.

I found that the bellhousing is cracked. Also there is a metal bracket-like thing that rattles (squeaking sound) against the outer part of the transmission. It is attached to a cable that goes up through to the dash (could this be related to the clutch?)

Also, there is a significant amount of oil/grease near where the shifter comes through the floor. I'm trying to figure out if something leaked or if it has always been like that.

The transmission is getting kind of stiff so I wonder if it needs new fluid. Amyone know what I should put in there, how much and how? I hear auto trans fluid but that seems strange since it's a 5 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
how much could I expect to pay for another transmission from the junkyard, and what if it were just the bell housing?

If you guys can help me figure out what that bracket is I will be off to a good start because the squeaking noise at idle is coming from there. The noise goes away when you push the clutch in (Before I was thinking it was the throw out bearing, don't know if this bracket is related).
 

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Theres only two cables that come from your trans that go through your firewall. Clutch and speedometer. clutch cable is attached to the bell housing and the speedometer is further back around the middle.

If your tranny is gettin stiff and your seeing tranny oil around the shifter chances are your tranny is leakin from the shifter and/or somewhere else. so your trans needs new fluid.

To do that...the drain plug is on the bottom of the trans. once drained put the plug back in and take out the fill plug which on about half way up the trans on the passenger side. after that, inside the car take out your shifter and fill it slowly till you see fluid start to come out the fill plug. thats the easiest way to do it.

Probably a good idea to do it asap and not drive it till you do so it doesnt cease since its already gettin stiff
 

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mercon/dexron III for trans fluid or synchromesh trans fluid (little more expensive but worth it if you can afford it
 

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how much could I expect to pay for another transmission from the junkyard, and what if it were just the bell housing?

If you guys can help me figure out what that bracket is I will be off to a good start because the squeaking noise at idle is coming from there. The noise goes away when you push the clutch in (Before I was thinking it was the throw out bearing, don't know if this bracket is related).

That bracket you are referring to is the bracket that holds the clutch fork cable and is connected to your clutch pedal up under the dash. :bigthumbsup

The squeaking you are hearing is not the bracket itself, but rather, the pilot bearing in the back of the crank. :scratchchin
When you push on the clutch pedal, the cable you see is pulling on the clutch fork, which in turn, is pulling the throw out bearing into the fingers of the pressure plate and releases the clutch disc. Normally, your throw out bearing is not in constant contact with these fingers (assuming the clutch is adjusted properly), so, the face of the throw out bearing is not spinning at all, until you depress the clutch pedal. Once again, assuming your clutch is adjusted properly, the throw out bearing cannot be making any noise as it is just sitting on the snout of the retainer, waiting for you to depress the clutch pedal. Once you do, it comes in contact with the fingers and begins to spin. If the throw out was bad, it would start to "squealing" at this point. :bigthumbsup

The pilot bearing on the other hand, is constantly spinning as long as the engine is running. It gets a little more tricky here.... The pilot is basically 2 parts. The outer casing and the inner bearing. The outer casing is in constant contact with the walls of the crank, therefore, it is spinning when the engine is running. The inner bearing(needle bearing) is what the input shaft of your tranny is in contact with. With the clutch pedal not being depressed, both the inner needle bearing and it's outer casing are spinning at the same rpm. When you push the clutch pedal down to shift, the disc releases and slows down the input shaft, which in turn causes the inner needle bearing to slow down as well BUT the outer casing is still turning at engine rpm. This causes the pilot bearing to turn at 2 different speeds. A bad pilot bearing will squeal when both "halves" are turning the same speed, but usually stops squealing when the clutch pedal is depressed, causing the needle bearings to slow down. :bigthumbsup

Sorry for the long post....just trying to explain it in a manner that hopefully, you understand. ;)




Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
 

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yeah you can throw about any kind of lube in a 5 speed ppl use atf or gear lube or whatever
 

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yeah you can throw about any kind of lube in a 5 speed ppl use atf or gear lube or whatever


Actually, that is incorrect. You cannot run gear lube in a T5, it is way too thick and it won't shift.
Stick to Dexron III. :bigthumbsup




Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
 

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you can call junkyards around for the bell housing, the new one is around $200.00 or so
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks everyone. I assume putting in a new bellhousing is a big job? What has to come out in order to get it in? What about the pilot bearing?
 
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