[SilverHorse]

I have a 91 5.0L / 5 speed car and want to know what I need to do to swap in a 351 Windsor out of a 69 Mach 1. The 351 was rebuilt in 95 with forged pistons and rods. It was also bored .30 over. The motor was in a 68 coupe, but shortly after we bought the car, my old man pulled the motor, and it sat on a stand ever since. The motor has roughly 3000 miles on it since it was rebuilt, and of course I know I will need to replace all the gaskets and seals. I am planning on putting AFR 185's and a Track Heat intake set-up on it if it will work, so no worries about a problem matching intake to heads, or so forth. I was wondering what parts for the swap were needed, if the older Windsor will work, and what to watch out for...

Will be updated with hopeful progress:thumbsup

 

[GTRaptor]

If you want to keep the Fox accesories you might need to change the front cover and the water pump, also the oil pan. You might need a larger radiator too. New headers.....let me think it over, but i bet something else will be needed.

anyone else can help???

 

[macx]

351 swap pan with oil pickup (Ford) - it's a stock 5 quart and fine for most street motors

Highly recommend new motor mounts - the Stang vert ones are stronger and will lower the motor a little - helps with hood clearance.

Your front cover should be fine. Your 302 water pump and other accessories bolt
right on, except for the PS/AC bracket. Ford sells an adapter bracket. You might
want to invest in a high perf aftermarket water pump and hi-flow T-stat.

You'll need a damper spacer to get the serpentine pulley on the crank to line up.
Ford sells it.

If you're staying efi, you need to widen the fuel rails. Remove the plastic hose
at each end, replace with longer lengths of hi pressure efi specific hose, and
with efi specific clamps (rolled edges to prevent cutting into the hose) NAPA
and others have them.

You'll probly need 30 lb injectors, or maybe even 36 lbs - check one of the many
injector size calculator programs available on the net.

You'll also for sure need a larger throttle body and EGR plate, match it to the
intake opening, and I would recommend at least around an 80 mm mass air -
Pro-M closed but there's a new outfit with the same guys making them.
Stay away from C&L. Or you can use a large size Ford meter from a number
of different vehicles, but it would have to be recalibrated for the proper size
injectors if different. If you can find a used Pro-M with the right calibration (I did) or
can buy a new one from that outfit, the meter wouldn't have to be recalibrated
but you would still need a dyno tune to reset the tables in your computer so the
engine will run right and you don't destroy it with too much timing or running too lean.

If you're retaining air injection, cut the tube behind the intake and widen with
a piece of 3/4" hi temp heater hose.

You'll need a 351 distributor out of a 351 efi later model truck, and if you're
going roller cam (although your block is not roller, so probly not?) you'd need
to change the distrib gear to the yellow stripe Ford gear for use w/roller cams.
Otherwise you're probly OK. You might watch for a setup that has the tfi
module mounted in a little remote holder that mounts usually on the radiator
frame, with a wiring harness to connect to the distributor. Then you won't
have the chance of heat trashing your tfi module.

You'll need 351 swap headers - lots of companies make them. I found a good
used set of shorty ceramics reasonable, but they didn't fit the H pipe worth a
crap! JBA. I do like the ceramic, though, as they don't rust and the underhood
temps stay alot cooler.

[email protected] if I can help w/anything else.

There's an article in the Water Box archives on www.alternativeauto.com that
lists out all the stuff needed for that kind of a swap, although they start right
with the motor and everything else. But there are the Ford part numbers for
the crank pulley spacer, swap pan, etc. I found lots of the stuff I needed good
used on ebay and on the various Mustang classifieds.

Oh, you've of course got to have a 28oz balance flywheel for a 351
as the 302 one is 50 oz balance.
If you've got one on the 351 already, should work I think. I believe
164 tooth. You should be able to tell by comparing the one on your
351 and the one from your 302 as far as diameter and tooth count.

 

[alexcor]

i think macx covered about everything... my advice is listen to him about the mass air. i had a c&l on mine w/ stock injectors. then i changed over to 30s w/ the matching sample tube, my car wouldn't idle for s$$t. i just picked up a pro m 77 and is in the process of being calibrated so hopefully my problems will go away. good luck and let us know how it goes :smilie

 

[SilverHorse]

Hey, Thats alot of good to know info! I havent thought about the roller block issue, but I will take that into consideration now. I know roller lifters are alot more advanced then mechanical, but how much of a difference should that make? Should I save the old Windsor for a different future project, and hunt for a later model, roller 351???

It will be a few months before the conversion takes place. I just wanted an idea from people with the experience as to how involved I was getting. I will update with a new post when the work commences!


Thanks agian guys. Good info is usally hard to find, but a blessing when you get it.

 

[merkerguitars]

We should really make this a sticky.

 

[macx]

I know roller lifters are alot more advanced then mechanical, but how much of a difference should that make? Should I save the old Windsor for a different future project, and hunt for a later model, roller 351???

Couple things about roller lifters - less friction / heat, a small incr in power becuz of
less friction, but the biggest advantage is that your cam can have steeper ramps / faster lift rates with a roller lifter than a flat tappet.

However, that doesn't matter so much with streetable cams - it's the race oriented cams
that benefit most from steeper ramps & higher lift rates, though perf street cams can
benefit some also.

The earlier blocks are stronger than the later roller blocks, but the later blocks are plenty
stout for most street type motors. Only when you get into really pulling the power out like
for a major race effort will it make any possible difference. The roller blocks are still lots stronger than oem 5.0 blocks. And you can put ARP main studs and a girdle on them.

You'd just have to do the math with your particular situation to see if a roller block
could be done without dropping a lot of money and be worth it. If you have a good older block, you could convert to aftermarket hydr roller retrofit lifters for about $400, or there are plenty very good flat tappet hydraulic cams available.