351 swap pan with oil pickup (Ford) - it's a stock 5 quart and fine for most street motors
Highly recommend new motor mounts - the Stang vert ones are stronger and will lower the motor a little - helps with hood clearance.
Your front cover should be fine. Your 302 water pump and other accessories bolt
right on, except for the PS/AC bracket. Ford sells an adapter bracket. You might
want to invest in a high perf aftermarket water pump and hi-flow T-stat.
You'll need a damper spacer to get the serpentine pulley on the crank to line up.
Ford sells it.
If you're staying efi, you need to widen the fuel rails. Remove the plastic hose
at each end, replace with longer lengths of hi pressure efi specific hose, and
with efi specific clamps (rolled edges to prevent cutting into the hose) NAPA
and others have them.
You'll probly need 30 lb injectors, or maybe even 36 lbs - check one of the many
injector size calculator programs available on the net.
You'll also for sure need a larger throttle body and EGR plate, match it to the
intake opening, and I would recommend at least around an 80 mm mass air -
Pro-M closed but there's a new outfit with the same guys making them.
Stay away from C&L. Or you can use a large size Ford meter from a number
of different vehicles, but it would have to be recalibrated for the proper size
injectors if different. If you can find a used Pro-M with the right calibration (I did) or
can buy a new one from that outfit, the meter wouldn't have to be recalibrated
but you would still need a dyno tune to reset the tables in your computer so the
engine will run right and you don't destroy it with too much timing or running too lean.
If you're retaining air injection, cut the tube behind the intake and widen with
a piece of 3/4" hi temp heater hose.
You'll need a 351 distributor out of a 351 efi later model truck, and if you're
going roller cam (although your block is not roller, so probly not?) you'd need
to change the distrib gear to the yellow stripe Ford gear for use w/roller cams.
Otherwise you're probly OK. You might watch for a setup that has the tfi
module mounted in a little remote holder that mounts usually on the radiator
frame, with a wiring harness to connect to the distributor. Then you won't
have the chance of heat trashing your tfi module.
You'll need 351 swap headers - lots of companies make them. I found a good
used set of shorty ceramics reasonable, but they didn't fit the H pipe worth a
crap! JBA. I do like the ceramic, though, as they don't rust and the underhood
temps stay alot cooler.
[email protected] if I can help w/anything else.
There's an article in the Water Box archives on
www.alternativeauto.com that
lists out all the stuff needed for that kind of a swap, although they start right
with the motor and everything else. But there are the Ford part numbers for
the crank pulley spacer, swap pan, etc. I found lots of the stuff I needed good
used on ebay and on the various Mustang classifieds.
Oh, you've of course got to have a 28oz balance flywheel for a 351
as the 302 one is 50 oz balance.
If you've got one on the 351 already, should work I think. I believe
164 tooth. You should be able to tell by comparing the one on your
351 and the one from your 302 as far as diameter and tooth count.