[theleeb]

The guy that did some work on my 65 installed a new stock brake light switch and said it worked fine. On the way home, my wife drove behind me and said the brake lights weren't working.

I searched through the threads on this forum and I see all sorts of hacks to resolve brake light switch issues. I have no idea what to do next, I am not really mechanically inclined and don't want to make anything worse by trying to "fix" it .

Maybe there's a best-in-class (lol) brake light switch manufacturer out there?

Any suggestions?

 

[Cobrajet67]

A brake light switch is very simple in design, operation, and installation. It's one of the most easy things to work on and adjust. If you have no lights at all though I'd be concerned that the switch is either defective or not plugged in/getting power somehow.
I'd just take it back to him and have him fix it on his dime since you paid him already and you didn't get the brake lights fixed.
If you decide to do it yourself then testing the switch for power going into/out of it is easy with a voltage tester/test light.
It might not be getting power fed to it. You'll want to check to see where it gets power delivered from and test there for 12v as well.

 

[07redstang]

X2, take it back to the guy who installed it.

 

[imps]

The guy that did some work on my 65 installed a new stock brake light switch and said it worked fine. On the way home, my wife drove behind me and said the brake lights weren't working.

I searched through the threads on this forum and I see all sorts of hacks to resolve brake light switch issues. I have no idea what to do next, I am not really mechanically inclined and don't want to make anything worse by trying to "fix" it .

Maybe there's a best-in-class (lol) brake light switch manufacturer out there?

Any suggestions?

Brake light switch on 1965 Mustang was a hydraulically-operated switch, which was screwed into a fitting on the master cylinder. It was operated by brake fluid pressure, and was a source for fluid leakage if it's diaphragm failed. Here's what they look like.

 

[Lime1GT]

Not saying your wrong. Just defining, RockAuto lists the hydraulic switch for a 1964 with a Generator. RockAuto lists the brake pedal actuated switch for 1965-1970 with an Alternator.
Regardless, if the op doesn't know how to use a test light following a wiring diagram from averagejoes website, then best to take it back to "guy" who installed it previously as mentioned above.
1965 Mustang Wiring Diagrams - Average Joe Restoration

 

[Yadkin]

It's not "the guy's" fault but the cheap China parts that are available to him. I'm guessing that the switch does work, but doesn't turn "on" until you have a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. It needs to switch on when you just touch the brakes.

I gave up on the hydraulic switch four years ago and installed a simple mechanical switch. Not endorsing this product as are many more like it. I installed it under the dash, one end high up on the brake pedal lever and the other end to the bottom of the dash panel. Huge adjustability. The wiring was simple: cut at the old switch, pull through from under the dash.

 

[K4JOE Joe]

The 64.5 had a pressure switch on the brake lines (Master cylinder). Some of the early 65's has the same pressure switch, while others had the mechanical type that attached to the brake pedal - ie under the dash.

There were 2 types of pressure switches- Low pressure such as the Ron Francis SW-32 switch which required 20 to 50 psi to activate. The high pressure switches required about 60 to 100 psi.

You may need the low pressure for your car.

The mechanical has a bar on it that can be bent and thereby adjusting the quickness for the lights to come on.
If you have Power brakes with a vacuum boaster, you may need to adjust the Push rod which is between the master cylinder and the vacuum tank.
see this site for such adjustment:

Hope this helps,
Joe

 

[Pazwazza]

U have a bad ground circuit at the brake lights. Maybe a hacked remote lock unlock install .

 

[Driveway]

All the above info could be of use. We really need some photos of your setup. Brake MC, switch, etc. All the early and first full year Mustangs were VIN with a 1965 year, so just calling your car a '65 is not enough info. Once we know and can see what type of switch you have, you might get the help you need.

 

[SPeace-ATL]

All good points here. I want to add a couple of things just as an FYI for those wanting to know more.

The hydraulic switch on my 64 1/2 coupe started blowing out regularly after converting to a front disc brake setup.
My solution was to install the 65/66 mechanical style switch on the pedal. First, you also need to replace the pushrod with one that activates the pedal switch, but second, be aware that the post on the 64 1/2 pedal that the switch fits on is SHORTER than the one on a 65/66 pedal. I had to round up a genuine 65/66 brake pedal to make it work. The good news is that it works like a charm!

Next, I want to remind anyone troubleshooting problems with the brake lights on a 65/66 Mustang (and several years on) that the power for the brake lights passes through the contacts in the TURN SIGNAL SWITCH up in the steering wheel. Don't rule out a bad, or intermittent turn signal switch as a possibility when you are having problems!

Stan

 

[johndowens1]

Not saying your wrong. Just defining, RockAuto lists the hydraulic switch for a 1964 with a Generator. RockAuto lists the brake pedal actuated switch for 1965-1970 with an Alternator.
Regardless, if the op doesn't know how to use a test light following a wiring diagram from averagejoes website, then best to take it back to "guy" who installed it previously as mentioned above.
1965 Mustang Wiring Diagrams - Average Joe Restoration

I have a May 65 car and it still had the switch on the master cylinder..But heck, it also had early 65 wiring harness under dash, that had been changed at ford assembly to the late 65 harness..

 

[RagTop69]

The guy paid someone to replace the brake light switch to fix his brake light problem. He should take it back to that individual and tell him to solve the problem whether it's a short or a faulty switch or whatever.

 

[Dejerake]

It boils down to whether you've got a 65 or 64 1/2...the earlier model uses a generator AND the switch mounted on the master cylinder. If you've got a 65 with the alternator, then you've got the mechanically operated switch that mounts on the brake pedal assembly inside the car. Which might you have?

 

[07redstang]

It's been 9 days. Have you determined what switch you have and found a way forward?

 

[Cobrajet67]

It's so frustrating when there isn't any follow up by the OP on these threads... I wonder if he has his notifications disabled. I think that if you start a thread in a forum then you shouldn't be able to disable notifications for it for a period of time like at least two weeks. Two weeks minimum of email notifications for posts on your own thread should be a requirement imo.

 

[theleeb]

Life happens and have not been able to see this issue through. A couple of you guys asked for pics...here's a few. Found a new mechanic (the other guy was about an hour away), hopefully he can figure out the best solution.

 

[Cobrajet67]

Life happens and have not been able to see this issue through. A couple of you guys asked for pics...here's a few. Found a new mechanic (the other guy was about an hour away), hopefully he can figure out the best solution.
View attachment 793619 View attachment 793620 View attachment 793621

2 years later... No less than a dozen people responded to your post.
Maybe someone else might be able to glean something from them but from my end these pics aren't useful to identify anything. Terrible resolution and too zoomed in too.