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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a update to my last post about the over heating problem. OK so i have taken the water pump off, and found no problems. my question is has anyone had any problems using the early 289 and 260 timing covers with the same early 289 water pump. I have bought a new water pump for a 65 with a 289 and it is different from the one that is on there. the one i bought has the plate (bolted onto the pump) between the pump and cover. My old pump has two scoops on each end that fit into the timing cover. So I was wondering if the older style doesn't flow as good as the newer style with the plate? Because as the car begins to reach normal operating temp, The upper and lower hose has quite a bit of pressure, almost like it is not flowing enough. And if it is not flowing enough it is possible that the coolant is boiling and that is what is creating my bubbles along with the pressure. It seams to me that the style with the backing plate cover would work a lot better because it actually directs the coolant flow much better. Other than that I see nothing wrong with the original pump and i am back to square one....still over heating, and a lot of time and money wasted because i can not pinpoint the problem. Thank you for any help.

Oh and the link to my original post is here for the hole story.. Thank you

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...-mustang-overheating-problem.html#post2411636
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It has a brand new 3 core radiator, cap, hoses, heater core, tried 3 different thermostats(160, 185, and 195), new aluminium elderbrock performer heads and intake, the motor was rebuilt bored 30 thousands over, had the original fan, flex fan, and now electric fan. I am running out of things to replace! The only thing that remained the same from the 289 to 302 swap was the water pump and timing cover.
 

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Also one quick thing, I had posted in the original post that when driving, the car would not overheat. That has changed with outside temp. Now since it is hot out i can't drive the car during the day because it gets too hot. If i drive it at night it still runs hot but i can maintain about 200 degrees as long as i am moving. But what I cant get over is the fact that when the thermostat is open I should have little to no pressure within the system. Once the car gets to operating temp, there is just too much pressure, however there is not enough to set off the cap. I just feel like it something with the pump and or timing cover,but i am just looking for something i guess? what else could be the problem?
 

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hi! with a 16 psi rad cap you will build some pressure and it wont release the presure/coolant to the ground until that pressure is met. at 16 psi if you have a mixture of 50% coolant and water in will not boil below 265 degrees. both hoses will get hard went the engine warm up, due to the pressure and not the lack off flow from the pump.

-Did you install you thermostat with the sensing bulb toward the engine.
-What is your timing set at.
-Are all 8 cylinders firering, what did you gap the spark plug at.
-Did you put the head gasket the right way.
-Did you adjust your carb using a vacuum gauge.
-Are you filling your rad over the tube, if not you may not get flow throughout the entire rad.

-What was you original fan, a 4 blades fan, did you have a shroud.
-Which flex fan did you have in, some dont flow much air.
-What are you running for electric fan.

good luck. Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wolverine,

i agree with you that within the cooling system as the engine warms up a certain amount of pressure will be built until the thermostat opens, and once the thermostat is open I should be able to grab and squeeze the upper or lower hose and or take the cap off with little to no coolant coming out (depending on how full it is). After about 20 minutes of idle time my car will build pressure and then the thermostat will open, now the system is in closed loop. I can take the cap off and have little to no pressure. Now once the car reaches the point where the t-stat opens, If i let the car idle more than 7 to 10 minutes longer with the cap on the car will begin to over heat and I can no longer take the cap off due to the amount of pressure. IF the cap is off and the t-stat is open and the radiator is all the way full, I can watch the coolant and every now and again see bubbles. I think this is where I am getting my excess pressure.

Yes it has a 16 psi cap, 50 50 mix, thermostat is right,timing is about 10 degrees btdc, runs great, have tried 3 different carbs, i fill the radiator to the top of the cores, yes original fan was 4 blade with shroud, tried a 7 blade flex fan, and "What are you running for electric fan" i guess you mean why, because it just something someone had told me to try,

Lastly I am pretty sure I got the head gaskets in correctly, but to be 110 % I guess I will tear it back down, because i have noticed that after I shut the car off It will actually get hotter (about 10 to 15 degrees). So maybe i screwed up?
 

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Do you have a aftermarket temp gauge or are u following using the stock or with temp gun? (posted the question in ur older thread also by accident ignore that)
 

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Regarding the electric fan question, not why but Which fan, what cfm, is it ducted over most radiator core with no gaps between the fan and core, puller fan...
The block will "heat soak" and the temp will go up after the motor is shut off when warn - completely normal. What temp gauge??Hope its a maual auxillary one. Buy an ifared heat gun($35-50) and see what the real numbers are on the block. It will not build cooling system pressure until the tstat opens. The bubbles are unsettling, should not be bubbles in there. Lots of bubbles indiacte blown head gasket. Do a compression test. What trans and gear? 210 is not high as you may think, most cars operate at 210 from new. raiator temps and block temps will usually run 10 to 15* hotter than tstat rating.
Good luck,
joe
 

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wolverine,

i agree with you that within the cooling system as the engine warms up a certain amount of pressure will be built until the thermostat opens, and once the thermostat is open I should be able to grab and squeeze the upper or lower hose and or take the cap off with little to no coolant coming out (depending on how full it is). After about 20 minutes of idle time my car will build pressure and then the thermostat will open, now the system is in closed loop. I can take the cap off and have little to no pressure. Now once the car reaches the point where the t-stat opens, If i let the car idle more than 7 to 10 minutes longer with the cap on the car will begin to over heat and I can no longer take the cap off due to the amount of pressure. IF the cap is off and the t-stat is open and the radiator is all the way full, I can watch the coolant and every now and again see bubbles. I think this is where I am getting my excess pressure.

Yes it has a 16 psi cap, 50 50 mix, thermostat is right,timing is about 10 degrees btdc, runs great, have tried 3 different carbs, i fill the radiator to the top of the cores, yes original fan was 4 blade with shroud, tried a 7 blade flex fan, and "What are you running for electric fan" i guess you mean why, because it just something someone had told me to try,

Lastly I am pretty sure I got the head gaskets in correctly, but to be 110 % I guess I will tear it back down, because i have noticed that after I shut the car off It will actually get hotter (about 10 to 15 degrees). So maybe i screwed up?
Sorry but you are getting it wrong, pressure built has the engine warm up, presure is the same on ehter side of the stat. the cooling system is open from one side to the other side of the stat. and it doesn't go away went the stat open. the coolant is always flowing through the engine even went the stat is close. pressure go away went you remove the rad cap. you got a bypass beside the heater port on the water pump which go to the stat housing and coolant flow out the water pump to the heater core and back into the intake.

like other said, you might not be overheating. you can check if your head gasket are installed correctly without taking the head off. if they are on right, the head gasket has one corner that stick out on the front of the engine outside corner.

check you theory on a different car and be carfull no to get third degree burn.

Eric
 

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one more thing, flex fan are not all made to run on a V8. the first pic is a 4cyl fan and the second a V8 fan.
I had the first one on my 351w until a found out it was overheating because of it. now got a Derale fan and you can feel the air runching in front of the car at idle.
 

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