I have a 1965 with a c4 trans and 289 mostly stock. I have been using this car all summer as a daily driver with few problems besides my constant tinkering with things. The engine and trans have less than 20K miles on them since a rebuild. The other day when I tried to pull it out of the garage the engine died as soon as I put it in gear. After a few failed attempts, I let it warm up, and tried at higher rpm. Both to no avail. This is not a slow stall like I have seen before like if the carb was out of adjustment or there was a small vacuum leak. This stall is instant. As soon as I put the car in rev. or drive its dead. As if I had just turned off the key. I'm afraid to think there is something catastrophically wrong with the trans. Maybe the torque converter? Has anyone experienced this sort of thing before? Any tips to try before dropping the trans?
65 with c4 Stalls instantly as put in gear
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792 Posts
is it an off and on problem like has it driven fine since or is it just done as in since this she wont do a thing?
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2,825 Posts
Hello jtettenb,
How should I start this - -STOP - - -
Stop thinking about the trani as the issue and don't think of pulling it
at LEAST not yet for sure.
One thing I have learned over the years is often times when we have an issue
with these classics - -it is something simple.
PLease DON"T think of pulling the trani - - NOPE - -not even a consideration
until a LOAD of things are checked.
It sounds as if you have had some issues with a vacuum leak and a carb
that is out of adjustment - - those are/were 2 possible causes for your condition
BUT there are MANY others.
Before doing much of anything you gotta check a LOT of little things.
Think of it like this - -when you shift the car into a gear, the motor torques up
a little but and twists etc - -this LITTLE movement could be enough to
cause a wire to short or perhaps just move a little causing a shut off.
What you describe sounds like an electrical issue - so here is a few things
I would start with.
1. - Check the wires on the SOlenoid - make sure they are clean and tight
2. - Check the wires and connections on the coil.
3. - Look and push on the plug at the firewall that feeds the motor compartment.
Things like that are a starting point.
You could have an issue with a bad ignition switch or so many other things.
I would HATE to see you pull the trani without checking a LOT of little things
first. In my opinion - -the trani would NOT cause the motor to just shut off like that
so suddenly.
So PLEASE don't pull the trani - get some more ideas from others BUT I have a strong
feeling it is NOT in the trani.
Print Dad
How should I start this - -STOP - - -
Stop thinking about the trani as the issue and don't think of pulling it
at LEAST not yet for sure.
One thing I have learned over the years is often times when we have an issue
with these classics - -it is something simple.
PLease DON"T think of pulling the trani - - NOPE - -not even a consideration
until a LOAD of things are checked.
It sounds as if you have had some issues with a vacuum leak and a carb
that is out of adjustment - - those are/were 2 possible causes for your condition
BUT there are MANY others.
Before doing much of anything you gotta check a LOT of little things.
Think of it like this - -when you shift the car into a gear, the motor torques up
a little but and twists etc - -this LITTLE movement could be enough to
cause a wire to short or perhaps just move a little causing a shut off.
What you describe sounds like an electrical issue - so here is a few things
I would start with.
1. - Check the wires on the SOlenoid - make sure they are clean and tight
2. - Check the wires and connections on the coil.
3. - Look and push on the plug at the firewall that feeds the motor compartment.
Things like that are a starting point.
You could have an issue with a bad ignition switch or so many other things.
I would HATE to see you pull the trani without checking a LOT of little things
first. In my opinion - -the trani would NOT cause the motor to just shut off like that
so suddenly.
So PLEASE don't pull the trani - get some more ideas from others BUT I have a strong
feeling it is NOT in the trani.
Print Dad
Joined
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792 Posts
i second this from print dad. its odd for a tranny to just crash like that. usually it would be while driving. i ask you this. is it now colder where you live than it was since the last drive? 10 to 20 drop? choke could be on still. do you have a tach? very valuable diagnostic tool. engine could be lean which i have fought with on my buddies vehicles that had the SAME issue. im pretty handy with carbs but have been humbled many times when i just decided in my mind that it wasnt the issue. for example i changed my whole damned timing chain.
so my point is, check that carb over. for instance a carb is set for a certain temp. change the temp and it will perform differently sometimes very noticable on these classics. when its cold they prefer a richer mixture is my expirience. too much air when engine is cold under a load will shut it right down sometimes.
what are your rpms at when in park? could be not able to handle the load because of a lean condition. play with it in park rev it up and down see if it responds like it always has. smooth and crisp response or slow to idle down or rev up, lazy, or inconsistant
the same with a rich condition. what kind of choke do you have? could be sticking closed, staying on too long, not long enough, and any other kind of thing that could go wrong with it. next time i would let her warm to full operating temperature before attempting to move if you havent yet.
hope this helps. im sure its really simple as dad says just start checking the simple things off the list and dont stress yourself out. dont drop the old girls tranny just yet either. :bigthumbsup
so my point is, check that carb over. for instance a carb is set for a certain temp. change the temp and it will perform differently sometimes very noticable on these classics. when its cold they prefer a richer mixture is my expirience. too much air when engine is cold under a load will shut it right down sometimes.
what are your rpms at when in park? could be not able to handle the load because of a lean condition. play with it in park rev it up and down see if it responds like it always has. smooth and crisp response or slow to idle down or rev up, lazy, or inconsistant
the same with a rich condition. what kind of choke do you have? could be sticking closed, staying on too long, not long enough, and any other kind of thing that could go wrong with it. next time i would let her warm to full operating temperature before attempting to move if you havent yet.
hope this helps. im sure its really simple as dad says just start checking the simple things off the list and dont stress yourself out. dont drop the old girls tranny just yet either. :bigthumbsup
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582 Posts
Aside from the neutral-safety switch on the driver's side of the transmission, the tranny, itself has NOTHING to do with any electrical circuit. The N/S switch only deals with the START circuitry, not the RUN circuits. In almost all cases, symptoms such as yours are caused by a vacuum leak. Look on the passenger's side of the transmission and insure the rubber hose from the steel transmission vacuum line and the tranny's modulator valve is intact and not leaking or slipped off. That small rubber hose is frequently compromised by transmission fluid, oil, and anti-freeze over time and becomes soft and stretched to the point that it is not getting a good seal. When in doubt, replace it.
Best,
Al
Best,
Al
Joined
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42 Posts
You know, you get really good advice here.
I agree 100% with these guys and would bet a dollar it's a vacuum problem.
Don't touch your tranny. :yup:
I agree 100% with these guys and would bet a dollar it's a vacuum problem.
Don't touch your tranny. :yup:
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