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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a new paint job for my 66 mustang. It was a basecoat clear coat, and I just noticed a couple of paint runs and paint spots on some locations around the car. Needless to say the person who painted it wont fix it without more money, even if it was their poor work. Is there anyway I can fix this myself and just get it over with? I'll do whatever it takes, it would be about 4 - 5 spots about 4" x4" in area that I would need to fix. Is there a coupound, would I need to sand it? Any help is appreciated it.

Also, if you can suggest a coumpound, wax, buffer or anything to protect the rest of the paint job? I want to do whatever I can to make it look good and make it last as long as I can.

Thank you
 

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that's pretty shoddy if they did a subpar paint job like putting runs in it and ask for more money. Actually that's ********. Part of a paintjob is fixing that stuff.

There are several techniques that can remove a run, but the easiest one is one I learned in paint school. Take a straight edge blade (like one that goes in a utility knife) and holding it completely perpendicular to the run, scrape off the run. Then buff it out with rubbing compound and it will look perfect.

The run is usually from the clear coat. The basecoat is pretty thin and sprayed on quickly...basecoats are pretty hard to mess up. The clear coat is a little more difficult because you need to put it on thick enough to look wet but not so thick that it runs.

Regarding waxes, etc...I'm assuming the paint probably isn't completely cured, so you won't want to wax it for several months. Meguiar's and Mother's brand products are quite good.
 

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that's pretty shoddy if they did a subpar paint job like putting runs in it and ask for more money. Actually that's ********. Part of a paintjob is fixing that stuff.

There are several techniques that can remove a run, but the easiest one is one I learned in paint school. Take a straight edge blade (like one that goes in a utility knife) and holding it completely perpendicular to the run, scrape off the run. Then buff it out with rubbing compound and it will look perfect.

The run is usually from the clear coat. The basecoat is pretty thin and sprayed on quickly...basecoats are pretty hard to mess up. The clear coat is a little more difficult because you need to put it on thick enough to look wet but not so thick that it runs.

Regarding waxes, etc...I'm assuming the paint probably isn't completely cured, so you won't want to wax it for several months. Meguiar's and Mother's brand products are quite good.
Thanks for your reply, and I agree with you in your opinion of the painter. I think the same thing but after suggesting more payment, I wouldnt want to deal with him anymore, just seemed they rushed the job.

Anyway, I'll try your suggestion, what type of rubbing compound should I use? Also, any suggestions on protecting the rest of the paint job, waxes, sealants, compounds, etc?

Thanks
 

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If they messed it up that bad, there probably isn't enough clear on it to even try color sanding the imperfections out. If you cut thru the clear you will have a mess. Since you had it painted instead instead of doing it yourself, no offense, I doubt you have the skills to fix it.
 

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Agree with Lizer on the razor blade method. Do not use sandpaper and a block on runs because it will remove the surrounding clear as well as the run and you might sand into the base coat. If that happens, you will have to shoot another coat of base and clear on the area.
Here is a really good clip from Autobody101 Paintification video the shows how to get trash and runs out of paint.
You will have a good idea of what involved to fix the run.
YouTube - Razor Blade to Level Trash / Auto Body Painting

YouTube - Razor Blade to Level Trash / Auto Body Painting Part 2

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Agree with Lizer on the razor blade method. Do not use sandpaper and a block on runs because it will remove the surrounding clear as well as the run and you might sand into the base coat. If that happens, you will have to shoot another coat of base and clear on the area.
Here is a really good clip from Autobody101 Paintification video the shows how to get trash and runs out of paint.
You will have a good idea of what involved to fix the run.
YouTube - Razor Blade to Level Trash / Auto Body Painting

YouTube - Razor Blade to Level Trash / Auto Body Painting Part 2

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
Thanks for the videos, that sure as hell makes it alot more understandable and doable. I'll try to get that done this weekend.

After wet sanding, do i need to apply sealer or wax?
 

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After wet sanding with 2000 you will need to buff the sanded area with a buffer and compound. I really like 3M Perfect It compound but it may be pricey if you are doing small touch ups. It is easier with a buffer and pad but if you are only doing the small areas, you can do it by hand. Be REALLY careful on corners and edges. I think everyone has their favorite products for buffing.

You do not want to wax a new paint job for a few months because it needs to "gas out" the solvents. Applying wax will seal them in.

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Ron i'll keep that in mind about the wax on new paint jobs. So what is the best way to protect the new paint, maybe a sealant? Or just leave as is for about 6 months and just wash and dry it properly?
 

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I would not apply sealer or wax for awhile. Your clear coat is tough stuff and really does not need much to protect it.

Did the painter cut and buff (wet sand and buff/polish) the paint job?

If he did NOT cut and buff, you will have to do it to get it to shine.
There are many ways to do it but this is the way I did it:
Wetsand 1500
Wetsand 2000
buff with wool pad and Perfect-It compound (3M)
Buff with medium cut foam pad and Perfect-It compound (3M)
Buff with fine cut foam pad and Perfect-It compound (3M)

Lots of choices with foam pads, wool pads, compounds and ways to do it.
These YouTubes show you a couple of methods:
YouTube - Detail King High Speed Buffing: Makita Buffer
YouTube - How to Repair Car Paint Damage : Black Pad Buffing a Car's Paint Job

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks ron, I'll try to get that work done over the weekend and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks alot for all your help:bigthumbsup
 

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However you decide to fix your situation, I'd strongly suggest that you first practice your technique on some painted surface other than your Mustang. At least that's the advice I got from some very experienced paint and body guys when I was considering fixing some paint issues on my own. In this situation, the more experience you have , the better. I've attached an article about wet sanding. Hope it's helpful.

Good luck and take it slow and careful!
 

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