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66 Mustang front brake drum rusted to shoes

2813 Views 9 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Driveway
Hi all, this is my 'new guy here' intro but I want to be direct to the point. I have a stuck drum front right so I have tried all fluids to free - no luck, unbolted the cylinder and drilled out the pins holding the shoes and removed the spindle nut and bearings but the drum will not turn or (lots of hammering) move forward away from its position. It will rotate a little left & right but even with long screwdrivers on each side the most I can say is maybe I have bent the springs leading to the post at the top above the cylinder. Now the drum is almost out to where you can't see the threads on the spindle. Before I stopped I sprayed more PB Blaster into it all around inside the drum. There's not much room in the storage garage but I could try a scissor jack and a pipe wrench to push the drum upward so the bottom moves away from the normal position in attempt to bend/break the springs inside. Any better ideas?
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Welcome to the site!! I moved your thread for a better response.
Cut the drum off with a mini grinder.
hi. ok the brake pads are not metal therefore they can not rust to the drum. . really need some photios was your adjuster too rusty to turn? . . it sounds like the shoes migh be crooked now because they are still on the top pin . cutting springs will not help either way. . if they are on the pin one option is to remove the pin by grinding the back of it off behind the backing plate.
Its probably just me, but you did not mention retracting the brake shoes with the adjuster tool. Depending on how bad things are inside, you may have to retract them pretty far. A screwdriver or the cheap adjuster tool is your best bet. No offense intended if it is obvious that you have already tried this.....Good luck!
Yes they can rust to the drum (stick to the drum). Take a hammer smack the drum see if they will break loose. If not break the drum with hammer it's just cast iron.
Hi, Coupe. Past experience has shown me that it's very unlikely that the shoes are rusted to the drum. Much more likely is that the adjuster has expanded to the point that the shoes have dug into the drum (severe grooving of the drum.) If you have been able to move the drum away from the backing plate as you have stated, you should be able to see the self-adjuster. Look between the drum and backing plate at the bottom of the drum. You are looking for threads on the adjuster; turn the star gear (should be counter-clockwise) until the threads disappear. At this point, hopefully, the drum will fall off. Good luck and keep us posted.
try spray PB through the adjuster hole,,let it soak maybe overnight,,,try turning the adjuster with a adjuster tool,,put something under the car so it doesn't fall on you,,,,last resort,,cut/brake the drum off..
Hello. :) This is actually pretty common on these cars when they have been sitting in one place for a really, really long time. The first thing that you want to do is disconnect the brake hose from the wheel cylinder and then hit the back of the wheel cylinder a few times with a hammer. Then take that flat bladed screw driver you have and shove it in between the backing plate and the drum on one side and try to pry it out one point at a time, walking around the drum. You will notice it trying to creep out a little bit at time. It is very annoying task, but it will eventually turn loose. :)
Sounds like you are trying to remove the hub and drum at the same time. It is possible the inner bearing is binding up on the spindle and it is not really the brakes holding up everything. Have you ever had the drum off the hub? Likely not. The studs are crimped just outside the drum to hold it all together during the assembly line. Grind, file, or chisel the 4 crimps on each stud. Then beat the stud back maybe 3/8". Then you may be able to beat the drum off the hub and you can then see whats going on inside.


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