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Hey All,

Recently bought a 66 Standard Coupe at a local auction for $1000. It was in decent shape though badly needed a paint job. The entire car was in tact but very dirty and looked like it had sat in a barn for 10 years.

I should note that i am not looking to return this to showroom quality or anything near that. I just want it to be respectable, look good and be a solid car for another 30 years. I have 3 years to get it done because my 15 year old son wants to drive it to his High School Sr. Prom. He doesnt want to drive my 2005 Mustang Convertible, but he wants the 66. The boy has good taste.

In checking the VIN number the car came with the stock V6 125 hp engine. However that is not what is in the car now. It appears someone started a re-build but never finished it, which brings me to my several questions but some more info first.

The current engine is a 351W (checked the numbers on the intake manifold) with a 4 BBL carb. There are also aftermarket headers on it and im not sure how they got all of that in the engine compartment. Its quite full.

The transmission hump in the car appears to have been cut off on the top and re-welded back. I am not sure of the rear-end yet as i have not gotten that far. The trunk was either hit and wrecked and put back together - somewhat - as the pipe from the gas cap to the gas tank has been broken and partially replaced with a rubber tube. There is still gas in the tank. There was also coolant in the engine which spilled out when i took off the radiator.

Seats are in great shape with only 1 small rip in the drivers side. I will need to replace both front seat mounting platforms. There are very few small rust holes in the floor panels. When i was sanding away the rust this weekend i started sanding off a hardened white substance in a few spots. I assume this is bondo. Windows are all there though i am replacing the front windshield.

So this leads me to the questions. It appears that the previous owner started a V8 conversion on this car. They did not do a great job but with a good paint job, all the panels back on and the seats and carpet inside, it would look like a very good car. I have removed the carb and it was clean. I removed one valve cover and it was almost pristine inside with no oil and sludge in there. I plan on taking the engine out and replacing all the gaskets at least.

Should i continue with this V8 upgrade? The engine VIN is from a 1980's truck. I plan on this mostly being a sunday driver in the mountains of NC so i really dont want to go back to the V6 as i do not believe it will have sufficient power. The engine is the main unknown, though i dont know a thing about the transmission yet. When i bought the car it was missing the alternator, fan and battery so i do not know the last time it was started. There is a good deal of rust on the frame where the bumper arm supports go and im really not sure how to get those bolts out as the "nut" of the bolt is somewhere inside the squared frame and cant get to them. There was a person with a local ad on craigslist that amazingly enough, was a V6 125 hp and a tranny for $700. He said the engine had 30k miles on it but is it worth it to go that route or stick with the 351W thats in there now?

Any advice is appreciated.

Mike
 

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I just did the exact build with my son.

I would recomend going a V8 and be aware you will need to change out the steering. Also, you should convert to disc brakes. CSRP has a kit for 525 dollars. You will also need a new 8 inch rear end to handle the power.

Look through our 2 1/2 year build.
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
We worked on it every weekend and some evenings. Be warned, there will be days you will have to drag him out into the garage!
 

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A mild stock 351W will push that 66 around real nice, not as much as a moderately modded 302 howwever. A 302 wil also give you more room under the hood, but in your position, I'd stick with the 351W to save money and time on your project.

BTW, the metal gas fill tubes are connected to the tank by a short piece of rubber hose from the factory. It should be a bout 4" long and be located at the top of the tank.

Like Resto said, front disc's will be very nice, especailly with the added weight of the 351. 66 did not come out with that heavy ov an engine to you will also want to get some 351W front coil springs. Check into getting 351W springs for a 69 model. If I recall correctly, the coil springs interchange from 65 through 70.

If your wheels have 4 lugs, then you will want to get the 5 lug front disc kit from CSRP (I did) and get a 5 lug rearend.

Make sure that you also have a larger radiator. The PO of my 67 did as little as possible to convert from an I6 to a 289, which best I could tell meant they swapped the motor and that was it. There are several articles on the web for "I6 to V8 Mustang swaps" that will give you good check lists for inspecting your car.

Now, with that said, depending on how much power driving you like - the I6 drive train back swap may save alot of money and time AND they have plenty of power to Sunday drive with. Here's a concern - I6 with only 30K, I'd say BS unless he has some rebuild receipts or something to at least date his claim. Maybe the odometer said 30K, but these old cars flipped at 100K.
 

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I just did the exact build with my son.

I would recomend going a V8 and be aware you will need to change out the steering. Also, you should convert to disc brakes. CSRP has a kit for 525 dollars. You will also need a new 8 inch rear end to handle the power.

Look through our 2 1/2 year build.
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification
We worked on it every weekend and some evenings. Be warned, there will be days you will have to drag him out into the garage!

Definitely will need a new rear end if you're going to have power. I have my engine built from bottom up, and FINALLY my rear end is seeing the last of its days. The seal, even though it's pretty old, finally broke up, spitting oil everywhere underneath. IF you decide to buy a kit to rebuild your 8, there's a guy named staticz2229 on Ebay who hooks up a deal with shipping price. I bought a trac loc, 3.40 gears, and new installation kit for 595 shipped. Charged only $10 to ship. Hit him up when time comes to rebuild or even replacing to a 9 incher.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all for the replies so far. Doing more looking at it today, which i should have done before i posted, my wheels are 5 lugs now so evidently that was upgraded doing the previous administration. The radiator is not huge so ill get a bigger one of those.

If the wheels are now 5 lug instead of 4, does that have any effect on if the rear end was changed out as well to support the v8 power? I want to say yes but i am not positive.

Do love, love love the website 66restmod. Thats a definite "keep me motivated" type website. Bookmarked now.

Mike
 

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Most likely you have a 8 or 9 inch Ford diff (I don't think there are 4 to 5 lug adaptors available). It sounds like the PO converted with some good manners. Here is my favorite Ford *8 & 9 inch Rear End page. It should help you determine what you have...

Kevinstang's Ford Nine Inch Differential Page +
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Noel and everyone else.

After finally getting the car jacked up so i could remove the tires, i was surprised with disc brakes on the front and drum brakes in the back. The rear end, from Noels page and description, appears to be 9 inch rear end.

Looks like i may be in luck?

Mike
 
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