My 67 mustang now isn't starting. Charged the battery, nothing. Took the battery to autozone to get it check and they said it was fine just need a little more charging. So I charged it some more and put it back in and still nothing. I turn the key and nothing happens, lights come on and everything just the engine wont even attempt to try and start. Could it be the solenoid? Or do I need a new battery?
67 289 wont turn over/start
Seay67
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My 67 mustang now isn't starting. Charged the battery, nothing. Took the battery to autozone to get it check and they said it was fine just need a little more charging. So I charged it some more and put it back in and still nothing. I turn the key and nothing happens, lights come on and everything just the engine wont even attempt to try and start. Could it be the solenoid? Or do I need a new battery?
- Reaction score
- 3,394
- Location
- Sedgwick, KS, USA
9 times out of 10, when this sort of thing happens, it's a problem with the battery cables. Oftentimes it's the ground. Check for corrosion, make sure the terminals are clean - not just on the battery terminal end, but on the other end too.
And lastly, check the solenoid. They more commonly stick 'on', when the starter is engaged and won't shut off, but sometimes they just refuse to engage, too. You can test it simply by using a crummy old pair of pliers or something similar to bridge the main terminals. If there's a big fat spark and the starter kicks, then you can be sure it needs replacement. (just be sure the car's in Neutral or Park if it has an auto!!) IF you have the key in and on 'run', it should start, too. While the low (12 volts) are not going to shock you, don't hold your pliers on the terminals too long, or they will get very hot, and probably weld themselves together, or to the terminals. High amps are weird like that. It's a good idea to wear a glove, just to avoid hot spots.
And lastly, check the solenoid. They more commonly stick 'on', when the starter is engaged and won't shut off, but sometimes they just refuse to engage, too. You can test it simply by using a crummy old pair of pliers or something similar to bridge the main terminals. If there's a big fat spark and the starter kicks, then you can be sure it needs replacement. (just be sure the car's in Neutral or Park if it has an auto!!) IF you have the key in and on 'run', it should start, too. While the low (12 volts) are not going to shock you, don't hold your pliers on the terminals too long, or they will get very hot, and probably weld themselves together, or to the terminals. High amps are weird like that. It's a good idea to wear a glove, just to avoid hot spots.
- Reaction score
- 1,726
- Location
- Poteau, Oklahoma
Check the I terminal on your solenoid to see if there is voltage when the key is turned to the start position.
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90 Posts
- Reaction score
- 36
- Location
- eastern iowa
it's also possible that the brushes in the starter are toast, or the armature is fried
When you say nothing happens, I assume you hear no click from the solenoid? Have you moved the selector from park to neutral and tried? Sometimes the selector switch gets out of adjustment. Is there 12volts going to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid when the key is in the START position?
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