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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, i am looking for options to increase horsepower in a variety of ways, good combos or simple expensive ones. at this point i will say i have a budget of $1000 and all options are o the table. my first thought was to bore and stroke it, but i have heard of some overheating issues, since i am not racing, I'm mainly looking for street power, I don't take long trips, so I'm mainly looking for a torque increase for quick acceleration, but increased HP is always good too. I have a C4 automatic transmission, and a 2.75" rear end...so what you think? and remember all options are on the table :bigthumbsup
 

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I think you mean you have an 8-inch with the 2.75:1 ratio.
 

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First choice would be a aluminum dual plane intake (edelbrock or weiand) check out ebay and carb 470-600 cfm vacuum secondaries, if leaving the stock cam in stay near the 470 cfm if not then go for no more than a 600cfm (the 470 size gives good street performance. Next I would do a free flowing dual exhaust, tri-y's or headers optional. The next level up is a camshaft change this will really make the 289 come to life, if you have already done the intake and carb. Then the last upgrade is a set of free flowing heads with bigger valves. If you are planning on a bore and stroke change, go find a good 351W (windsor), a 302 can do 350+ horsepower, but you will find a $1,000 won't go far on building an engine, unless you can do all the work, or most of it, yourself. Good Luck.
 

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best bang for the buck, GEARS! get rid of the 2.75s and get a trac-loc. then when you add your other parts you will really feel them.
 

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I'm with above post, go with at least a 3.25:1, if you want to save money and don't mind the one wheel peel it will be much cheaper to have a new set of gears installed vs. going with a tracloc unit. You may even consider 3.50:1 since you don't sound like you'll be going >50mph often. Once that's done start looking for a good used dual plane alum. 4bbl. intake and 470-600cfm carb. Those will be a fun start.
Jon
 

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Thirded on the gears. You want the torque because you want the acceleration. But all you have to do is pop in different gears in the back (at least 3.25) and BAM. Instant improved mad acceleration with same old engine.

Otherwise I'd say 4 bbl aluminum dual plane intake with carb, and mild street cam like an Edelbrock peformer.
 

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2bbl 289's are just going to be slow, and that's a fact.
 

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sky is the limit

$ 1000 will get you cam , intake , carb

$ 1000 will get you exhaust

$ 1000 will get you some nice aluminum heads ( edeldrock )

$ 500 will get you gears and a trac lok diff

Stay away from the used parts unless you know the history ie: a friend. You never know what you will get ( cracked aluminum )

Stay away from the off shore crap, fittment sucks !


Nice ( reliable being the key word ) little street runner stay away from the stroker


if you go any more than 3:55 in the diff with a C4 you will hate it on the hwy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well it seems gears is the winning option, but i am more used to engine work, and have replaced carbs intakes, and cams before, so i think that is what i am going to do, however, if i do the gears at one point, will i have to replace the whole rear axle, or do i just simply swap out gears, because when i looked up axles on summit, they approached $1000 for the cheapest, and i want to stick with both wheels, not the one wheel peel
 

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I take it you have an original V8 car, if so it is an 8" conventional rear. The third member can be removed by first pulling the axles out ~6" as they clip into the 3rd member. 3rd member is heavy so be prepared. You can then take it somewhere to have gears installed. I don't think it's easy/wise to try to convert a conventional (one wheel driven) to a tracloc but a rebuilder can tell you what's involved and if it'll hold up.

You can purchase 8" traclocs already built (fleabay, etc.) but check prices, I've seen them $600-$800. Once you've got an 8" tracloc 3rd member with the gears you want you and preload adjusted by builder just bolt it in, snap the axles back in, add grease and tracloc additive and your're ready to go. Count the number of splines your axle has or the 3rd member has to make sure you get a rebuilt one that will take the same axles.
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
also, all carbs and intake manifolds say non-EGR, but i dont think these old mustangs have it, i know there is a tube leading from the passenger side valve cover back to the carb, but exhaust does not come back up into the valve cover, so should i just not worry about it?
 

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That's the heater tube for the choke, once you change the intake and carb you won't be using that, either elec. choke or manual with a cable (electric is easiest and most common). No EGR.
Jon

Edit, I reread you post, sounds like you're talking about the PCV valve hose, you will reuse that with a new carb.
Can you post a pic?
Jon
 

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well it seems gears is the winning option, but i am more used to engine work, and have replaced carbs intakes, and cams before, so i think that is what i am going to do, however, if i do the gears at one point, will i have to replace the whole rear axle, or do i just simply swap out gears, because when i looked up axles on summit, they approached $1000 for the cheapest, and i want to stick with both wheels, not the one wheel peel
Dude, if you buy a third member on ebay the gears are so easy to replace. Like Jon said, it's merely a matter of pulling out the axles a bit, unbolting your existing third member and bolting the new one back one. No new axles or anything else needed. The rest of the procedure is just details.

Ebay Ford 8" and you'll get lots of results.

This is what I'm talking about:

FORD 8 INCH MUSTANG MAVERICK FALCON POSI REAR CENTER | eBay
 

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also, all carbs and intake manifolds say non-EGR, but i dont think these old mustangs have it, i know there is a tube leading from the passenger side valve cover back to the carb, but exhaust does not come back up into the valve cover, so should i just not worry about it?
that sounds like the PCV valve.

The non-EGR is correct and will work. Whatever it says for the manifold if it's a manifold for a 289/302 will be correct.
 

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If I remember right, a conventional rear axle, applies torque to both rear wheels, the difference is if the traction of one wheel slips, the power to the other wheel is reduced to that amount also. I'm sure the engineers probably have a formula for this. I realize the importance of the increase in torque, from the taller gear ratio. You should have 2.80 gears. If the cam isn't too wild, you should do fine with the engine mods. (My opinion) Good Luck.
 
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