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Discussion Starter #1
My old switch is functional but intermitent. I have seen some "good used" ones for decent, but high prices under the circumstances. BUT (again) I have a hard time putting a used one back in. So, I'm looking for alternatives or any info that would lead me to developing my own.

Any good solutions out there?

What are the amp requiremnts for the switch?

Is the switch a 3-way, double pole?

I can not really tell from the wiring schematic and the washer pump switch makes it even more complicated for the not-so electrically inclined.

I am considering putting in a electric washer pump, but may keep the washer pump pedel for the actuation. Just open to anything really.
 

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nobody sells a reproduction switch yet. I bought 2 of them on ebay so I would have a spare. I also am trying to figure out an alternative to the washer pump. so if you come up with a good solution post it up here ok?
 

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I've got a 1968 switch with part number C8ZB-17A553-A1 which is a 2 speed wiper switch (there is also a single speed wiper switch.
My wipers were intermittent also and would not auto cancel to home position. I installed a known good switch but the problem remained.
On page 15-64 of the 1968 Cougar Fairlane Falcon Montego and Mustang shop manual it explains the procedure on how to clean and inspect the two speed wiper motor.
If you haven't done so, I would highly recommend that you purchase a copy of the shop manual. 99.999% of the questions can be resolved by doing some homework.:winks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The problem with my switch is that it is loose as a goose (it's more loose now that it is clean) I think that the plastic housing has become loose or swollen and the inards are worn so that it is possible to get air gaps between the contacts. This yields sporadic power to the wiper motor - it can't be good.

So, if anyone knows any specifics about the switch, like it's...

throw and pole?

amp rating?

Or better yet a good substitute for a different location maybe?

How about a laymen explaination of how the pump switch and wiper switch work together? That's got my scratching my head.

I'm goanna bet that a later model Mustang switch would be a good candidate.

McCance - My initial thoughts are to replace the machanical pump with an electric one, but keep the pump lever and pump switch in tact so that the switch can be used to activate the pump. I still have some learning to do before I can say that this can be easily done, so check back with me in a month or so. Right now my harness is a speghetti mess and I'm just getting started with the electrical phase.
 

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The attached photo shows the bottom of the switch and
arbitrary numbers for the 5 terminals. The operation of the switch is as follows:

12 volts comes in to Pin 1; Pin 1 is connected to Pin 3 via an internal
bi-metallic fuse.

Low speed operation - Pin 3 is connected to Pin 4.
High speed operation - Pin 3 is connected to Pin 2.

Activate washer switch - Pin 5 is connected to Pin 4.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
------
Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for jumping in Craig and welcome to the club!

I have studied what you said along side the wiring diagram and it all makes good sense, but I still don't know exatly what kind of switch would be able to replace it. I have found similar looking switches (for truck heater fan speed control), but they are 3 (or 4) way-single pole-single throw switches. Our little buggar is some kind of crossbreed, best I can tell. Anyhow, the study continues. Hopefully I can get to looking at the guts of my switch this week and make some more progress.

And Craig, if you have intrest in this sort of stuff, check out another thread of mine that I have not yet overcome....

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/303997-how-do-67-wipers-washer-work.html
 

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Here's info on the current draw for a windshield wiper switch measured on a 1967 Mustang. The nominal current draw for a clean windshield with a lubricated motor was 4A - 6A; a dirty windshield and/or poorly lubricated motor required 6A - 8A.

The current draw increased to 12A for a seized motor and then dropped to 0A as the bi-metallic fuse opened.

Regarding the current rating for a replacement switch, a standard switch that is rated at 6A @120VAC will typically be de-rated to [email protected] for a non-inductive load. The requirements for the wiper motor switch are much higher since the motor is an inductive load. An automotive relay rated at 20A or higher would be able to withstand the inrush and steady-state current draw of the wiper motor.
 
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