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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so here's the story, Hope the tittle's descriptive enough

Back in 06 I started a 302 build up, found out it was a 68 mustang block (not BOSS) from the casting numbers.

I had a bunch of work done to the block:

*Pressure test
*Acid Bath
*Bored .020 over
*New Cam bears, Freezeout plugs, etc.

The guy did a great job, F & A Machine shop in Patchogue. Cross hatching looked good (mind you this is my first engine build, so I'm going off of pictures and stuff online. I did a lot of research, but apparently not enough heh.), and I was happy.

Whoops, turns out I threw out the main caps, so I ordered the Milidon main caps, and no front or rear caps.

ouch right? I was told I would be better off starting from scratch with another block.

Here are all the parts I currently have:

*.020 Hypereutectic Pistons with coated skirt (if someone can tell me how to pronounce that word I would appriciated, right now I'm like hyper...electric...something-or-other). 10.5:1 compression ratio with stock heads
* .020 Ring set
*Forged rods (stock length)
*Forged neutral balance crank shaft (stock radius)
*Milidon 8 quart oil pan, with crank scrapper/gurdle
*Milidon Main caps 2-bolt, (only three)
*cam bearings (installed in the block already)
*Freeze-out bearings (installed in block already)
*Oil pump
*Oil Pump drive shaft
*Oil pump pickup

Original plan was a 400-500HP engine with a redline at about 8000. Yeah I know the things I bought and listed above are super overkill, but I figured why not be safe?

Now I have a 95 GT convertable, 302 5spd. Cold air, and cat back (came with the car).

I've been told the stock crank can handle the power, and that the block will break before the crank will.

My main questions are:

Do I REALLY have to scrap the block?
A. I don't have too much money too spend, so keep cost effectiveness in mind.

Can I use the main caps from my current 302?

I found front and rear main caps on line for a couple hundred each, are there cheaper ones?

Being that some of the stuff I bought is over kill (neutral balance crank, which I now realize is going to cost me another $1000 between neutral balance flywheel and damper), should I sell some of it (crankshaft being the main one) and just build up the 302 in the 95 with the remaining parts?

I would like to know what the right thing to do is, and what the cost effective thing to do is.

I'm not looking to get too crazy with power, I'm going to put 3.55's in (I have them for free, otherwise I'd probably pick 3.73's). Realistically I'm not going to use the power too often. I'm a spirited driver that likes auto-cross style racing and drifting, Bracket racing too. Mind you I haven't had a car I can take to the track yet (fixing the stupid problems with the stang before I go run it).

Top end of the engine is currently up in the air, although the heads that came on the engine originally had 2.02 intake valves and 1.85 exhaust. crazy huge. I don't know what kind of heads they are as I haven't looked up their casting numbers (they say ford on them).

Any information is greatly appreciated :)
 

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I would pull your main caps off your old 302 and slap them on the 69 block and take it to a machine shop. Have them test the main bores for out of round and taper. You might need to get it align bored which isn't that much.

Sell the crank you got and use the stock one. It will hold up fine. Again have your machinist check the oil clearances with the new main caps. He will tell you what size bearings you will need.

those heads you have don't sound like any factory ford head. Not even 351c heads have exhaust valves that big. Are you sure those are the valve sizes?

And hypereutectic is pronounced hyper-you-tectic
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The intake number I'm 100% positive on, the exhaust could be 1.65 instead of 1.85.

I've been told Align boring is $200-400, trying to find cheaper (doesn't look like it's going to happen).

I'm assuming I'll need to have a custom Chip made for the engine swap because of the difference in the compression, heads, cam, etc....right?
 

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If it's going into a 1995 model, you might want to prepare for a dyno tuning and custom chip to get the most out of it. Chances are that picky 1995 computer will get fussy.

Find what numbers you can on those heads, we could help find out what they are and then maybe if they'd be worth using. Big valves doesn't mean they'll be any good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll also re-measure the valves tonight when I get the casting numbers. I don't have the micrometer I borrowed before, but I can get a rough idea.

Is there any where I can buy the front and rear main caps? I want to finish one engine before I plop it in as I can't have to much down time (it's my DD)
 

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If you don't mind getting dirty, you could always go to a junkyard and find something with a 302 in it and take the sway bar off, then drop the pan and yank the front and rear caps that way.
 

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i'm not seeing the overkill parts for 400-500 hp and 8k rpm or the crazy huge heads you mentioned. A more realistic goal is 350 fwhp @ 6600 rpm with production ford heads, its going to take more than an oversized valve to make 400 hp. keep the 0 balance stuff, its lighter and will make the car feel faster w/o actually making more power.

Call your machine shop and tell them what happened. they will probably have a junk older block there they can rob the caps from and align bore yours. you will have to have it cleaned again and have new cam bearings put in it since it will get full of shavings. Get a total price tag on it, you're probably looking at around $3-400 worth of rework, less if they aren't out to screw you.

who talked you into hyper pistons for your goals? and will they clear the bigger valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't remember exactly how or why I chose the hyper pistons, but when I brought everything down to the machine shop, he said that those pistons were good for the 8k red line on an N/A motor because they were light. and the 10.5:1 compression ratio (or maybe 10.1:1) for better gas millage and because I do not fear premium gas :D. I'm 90% sure the valves will clear the pistons, but I did look into cutting the valve recess' on the pistons just incase. I'll have to wait for assembly to find out I guess.
 

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What cam are you planing on running?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not 100% sure on the cam right now, depending upon what I decide on the red line and how much money I want to spend, either a hydrolic roller full mechanical. I've been looking at comp cams Xtreme series I believe.

Any suggestions? I'm looking for street/strip. I want at least what I have now for gas millage.

And like I said before I'd like to get to the 400-500HP range.
 
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