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Discussion Starter #1
Many said I was crazy to try to complete this swap for my car, but now it's done...
behold the 8.8 Rear End Swap!
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The 8.8 rear end from a 2001 Ford Mustang GT
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The rear coated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
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The old 7.5 out
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All mounted up and working

So here's why i did it... 8.8 rear ends are stronger, parts are easier to find for them, it has a limited slip which puts both wheels to the pavement, and my 7.5 is garbage that leaks, whines, and moans.

The swap was not easy, took me and the old man 2 days. What made things difficult was that the bolts would not budge, even with an impact. I do not have picture per step included so i'll try to do my best explaining.
  1. Take off the wheels
  2. Remove the brakes, just undo the bolts and leave it hanging by wire so you do not have to bleed the brake system
  3. Remove the rotors
  4. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear end, it is 4 bolts i believe that require a 12 point 12mm socket
  5. Place a jack, we used a mini jack, under the shock to support it, undo the bolt, and let it down , repeat on the other side
  6. Next, remove the upper contol arm bolts holding up the rear end
  7. Now do the lower control arm bolts and remove the springs

Now this may not be the correct order of things since we did this without thinking, we just jumped on the project. It takes lowering and raising to get most of the bolts holding the rear out. This was a backyard mechanic job, it worked... but this write up is just to let the forum know what we did to tackle the swap. I'll accept any criticism or compliments on my work. :bigthumbsup
 

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who told you that you were crazy to swap the rears? its a ridiculously easy thing to do..
 

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Very comon swap that is well worth the effort if you plan on upgrading the power of your engine.
 

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Torches make this easy. It can be tuff up in the rust belts to get cars apart that are 10 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had guys at the shop say I was crazy to even think of it, I had little tools to do this to start with, plus work to go to in the middle of things.... all in all happy with it. I didn't use a torch because of the rubber bushings.
 

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I had guys at the shop say I was crazy to even think of it, I had little tools to do this to start with, plus work to go to in the middle of things.... all in all happy with it. I didn't use a torch because of the rubber bushings.
hah what idiots...
 

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I did this swap with an 03 cobra rearend with 3.73 gears and put lowering springs and new control arms at the same time. The 3.73 gears have really made a difference!
 

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No it was a straight axle 8.8
well.. 03 cobras came with IRS not SRA. sure it could have been swapped in but.. its not originally from that car, be aware.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you look at the pictures you can see it's a solid axle not an IRS. An IRS would be a better swap if you choose to do more of autocross events since the axles move vs just staying in one place.
 

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I'm aware. It really doesn't matter, but I'm just telling you, an 03 cobra did not have a solid rear axle from the factory. His axle came from some other car before that.
 

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Great job :bigthumbsup

What gears does it have?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My 8.8 rear came off a 2001 Mustang GT, 3.27 gears
 

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My 8.8 rear came off a 2001 Mustang GT, 3.27 gears
That's identical to what I pulled for my '97 auto. An excellent swap, even with the 4700 RPM redline. Just enough gear for an otherwise unmodded engine/drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I plan to swap the whole V6 drivetrain out when the money comes around. I'm debating whether to go 2v 4.6L V8 or 4v 4.6L V8.
 

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if you're going to swap, go for the 4v. the 2v is just not worth it for the effort
 

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I'm not an expert so i probably shouldn't have even spoken up to begin with. Just saying if you're going to do a swap, swing for the fences. Best source for a 4v swap is probably its own huge debate in itself.
 

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What kinda engine can i put in? I heard the mark 8 is a good swap
The Mark VIII engine is basically a 96-98 Cobra engine with a more restrictive intake maifold. I do not know if it will fit, hook up, or any of that. You will need the 4.6L Mustang k-member, I'd bet.

2v vs 4v is about more than a better engine. The 2v is not a bad engine if you're only shooting for 300 WHP. It's actually a much better candidate for forced induction, as the 4v engine does not have much room for intercooling, ehxaust routing, etc. Kenne Bell doesn't even make an intercooler for the 96-98 Cobra engine, as far as I know. There just isn't enough room. This limits boost tremendously.

If you're going for 500+ WHP in a high RPM, NA package... Bump a 4v with B-heads(96-98) and an MMR intake to 15:1 compression and run it up to 8500 RPM, using E-85 of course. It won't be street-friendly at all.

I would say go 2v, unless this is going to be a dedicated race car.
 
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