In the video,it sounds like the engine is turning over faster than usual?? It might be a timing issue.
If you don't hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on,make sure the inertia switch isnt tripped and make sure the fuel pump wiring harness didnt get pulled loose in the hatch area or pump area since you were working near there.
Did you remove the distributor completely when you replaced the ignition module??
If yes,follow the procedure in the next paragraph to make sure the distributor is indexed correctly and timing is set correctly.Indexing= to drop the distributor in the block so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug post on the distributor cap with the distributor fully seated in the block.
1) Use Witeout and draw a line across the 0° & 10° btdc mark on the balancer.
10 ' ' ' ' 0* ' ' ' ' 10*
**NOTE** If you run 91-93 octane fuel & you prefer running base timing at 14° vs 10°,draw your Witeout line across the 14° mark instead of the 10° mark,mentioned above.
2) Remove the #1 spark plug
3) Stuff tissue paper into the plug relayslightly or get an assistant to plug the hole with his/her finger
4) Use a torque wrench/socket & rotate the crank CW until the paper blows out or the assistant feels compression then stop once the 0° mark is aligned with the timing pointer
5) The rotor should now be pointed at the #1 spark plug position on the distributor cap.If the distributor is indexed correctly, the rotor should be pointed almost straight ahead between the two front upper intake bolts (just like shown in the picture at the bottom of this post)
6) If the rotor is pointed in this direction,the distributor is indexed correctly.If not,it needs to be removed then reinstalled correctly.
7) Once its indexed correctly,its time to connect a timing light,start the engine, pull the spout plug,check timing with the light & adjust the distributor if needed.
8) ** NOTE** If you've still got the factory installed block and distributor in place,both of those components had score marks put in them at the factory by the Ford engine builder who assembled your engine.These represent the factory 10° base timing setting (A picture will be posted below)
If the 0° balancer mark is aligned with the timing pointer & the rotor is pointed at the #1 position at the present time & the score marks are present,all you've gotta do now is loosen the holddown bolt and rotate the distributor until its score mark is aligned with the block score mark & you'll now have timing sitting at 10°,without needing/using a timing light.
Did you use the correct thermal compound on the back of the ignition module?? The wrong compound or no compound will burn the module up within hours to minutes.
Is it a parts store module or oem Ford module?? Generic modules are notorious for only lasting days/weeks.Heat sink kills them.A kit can be bought or pieced together to relocate the module to a remote mounted heat sink.A oem Ford module stands up to heat better,but it too,will go out from heat soak with age.
The following link shows some detailed test procedures for the fuel pump/relay/etc.
Do the following two quick tests.
Hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine and if it sounds as if its fixing to start,release the pedal to see if it starts.If it starts, you've got a flooded engine condition present.
If it doesn't start, cycle the key on/off 4-5 times then try to start it.If it starts,you've got a pressure or bleeddown issue,since key cycling allows the pump to build up adequate pressure.