89 5.0 Oddly wont start...

In the video,it sounds like the engine is turning over faster than usual?? It might be a timing issue.
If you don't hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on,make sure the inertia switch isnt tripped and make sure the fuel pump wiring harness didnt get pulled loose in the hatch area or pump area since you were working near there.

(Timing)
Did you remove the distributor completely when you replaced the ignition module??
If yes,follow the procedure in the next paragraph to make sure the distributor is indexed correctly and timing is set correctly.Indexing= to drop the distributor in the block so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug post on the distributor cap with the distributor fully seated in the block.

(Procedure)

1) Use Witeout and draw a line across the 0° & 10° btdc mark on the balancer.

________________
10 ' ' ' ' 0* ' ' ' ' 10*
atdc<< >>btdc


**NOTE** If you run 91-93 octane fuel & you prefer running base timing at 14° vs 10°,draw your Witeout line across the 14° mark instead of the 10° mark,mentioned above.

2) Remove the #1 spark plug
3) Stuff tissue paper into the plug relayslightly or get an assistant to plug the hole with his/her finger
4) Use a torque wrench/socket & rotate the crank CW until the paper blows out or the assistant feels compression then stop once the 0° mark is aligned with the timing pointer
5) The rotor should now be pointed at the #1 spark plug position on the distributor cap.If the distributor is indexed correctly, the rotor should be pointed almost straight ahead between the two front upper intake bolts (just like shown in the picture at the bottom of this post)
6) If the rotor is pointed in this direction,the distributor is indexed correctly.If not,it needs to be removed then reinstalled correctly.
7) Once its indexed correctly,its time to connect a timing light,start the engine, pull the spout plug,check timing with the light & adjust the distributor if needed.
8) ** NOTE** If you've still got the factory installed block and distributor in place,both of those components had score marks put in them at the factory by the Ford engine builder who assembled your engine.These represent the factory 10° base timing setting (A picture will be posted below)
If the 0° balancer mark is aligned with the timing pointer & the rotor is pointed at the #1 position at the present time & the score marks are present,all you've gotta do now is loosen the holddown bolt and rotate the distributor until its score mark is aligned with the block score mark & you'll now have timing sitting at 10°,without needing/using a timing light.


(Ignition Module)
Did you use the correct thermal compound on the back of the ignition module?? The wrong compound or no compound will burn the module up within hours to minutes.
Is it a parts store module or oem Ford module?? Generic modules are notorious for only lasting days/weeks.Heat sink kills them.A kit can be bought or pieced together to relocate the module to a remote mounted heat sink.A oem Ford module stands up to heat better,but it too,will go out from heat soak with age.


(Fuel Pump)
The following link shows some detailed test procedures for the fuel pump/relay/etc.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...-diagnosis-101-1986-1993-mustangs.html#/enter

Do the following two quick tests.
Hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine and if it sounds as if its fixing to start,release the pedal to see if it starts.If it starts, you've got a flooded engine condition present.
If it doesn't start, cycle the key on/off 4-5 times then try to start it.If it starts,you've got a pressure or bleeddown issue,since key cycling allows the pump to build up adequate pressure.

apex2624 said:

Sorry for not replying after only one reply. Life got me so I didnt have time to work on it for a while.

To answer some of your previous questions:
we have yet to check timing
its a stock maf
idk if he reconnected the hose back when he sprayed fluid in it

I took a video of its current startup state if that helps. it did this with and without the spout connected. https://youtu.be/0-yvMociD0I

Click to expand...

apex2624 said:

Sorry for not replying after only one reply. Life got me so I didnt have time to work on it for a while.

To answer some of your previous questions:
we have yet to check timing
its a stock maf
idk if he reconnected the hose back when he sprayed fluid in it

I took a video of its current startup state if that helps. it did this with and without the spout connected. https://youtu.be/0-yvMociD0I

Click to expand...

My brain must have been lacking oxygen when I asked if the car was still SD or converted to Mass Air,since all 89-95 & 88 Cal. models came from the factory with a MAF sensor.

The reason I asked if the air intake hose was connected or not,when you attempted a restart after spraying starting fluid in the throttle body,was to verify whether your paps done the procedure correctly,because the results will differ if its done incorrectly on a Mass Air car.
Correct= pull the crankcase breather tube,connected between the passenger valve cover and the port on top of the throttle body,off the throttle body port,spray starting fluid into the port,reconnect the breather tube then attempt startup.
Incorrect= pull the large air intake hose off the throttle body,spray starting fluid into the throttle body opening then attempt startup without reconnecting the hose.This creates a vacuum leak so big,the car will never start & run because too much unmetered air enters the engine,triggering an excessively lean condition and this prevents startup since the mixture needs to be rich during cold starts & warmup mode.

** JFYI **
The maf sensor measures then tells the ecm exactly how much air is entering the engine and the fuel mixture is set to match that specific amount of air.
Therefore,any air that makes its way into the engine from somewhere other than the air filter side of the maf sensor,will be considered "unmetered air"
(i.e.-vacuum leak) & fuel wont be added to compensate for that additional air.This is what triggers the lean condition and subsequent symptoms.If the vacuum leak is small,like occurs with small vacuum hoses,gaskets,etc,the car will usually run,but it'll have a mis,stumble,hesitation,etc.However if its a large leak,like the purge valve to intake vacuum hose or the large air intake hose,it will cause the engine to stall as soon as you start the engine,because its too big of a leak for the engine management system to overcome.Think about it,if you pull the air intake hose off the throttle body then try to start the car,the ecm is providing fuel for the amount of air thats entering the air filter side of the maf sensor,but in reality since the hose is disconnected at the throttle body, the engine is actually sucking in however much air the throttle body opening is allowing,so the ecm really has no clue as to how much air is truly being ingested.


If you develop a no start condition out of the blue and you follow the Correct method listed above,it will indicate what you're missing.
IOW- if the engine starts and runs for a few seconds then dies,you've got a No Fuel issue.If it doesn't start at all,you've got a No Spark issue.If your timing is out enough to trigger a no start issue, the starting fluid trick is not gonna help since the timing issue will prevent it from starting regardless of anything else you do until its corrected,but if you use the trick and the engine does start then die,you've got a no fuel issue.