[Pcakes]

Hello all, and sorry in advance if this is in the wrong location... I've been working on a fox body project for a while now, and I've been all over with the work on it, and it doesn't help that it was barely running when I bought it... As of right now I'm pretty confused as to how some of the vacuum lines are routed, and what can be capped off as I removed my smog pump and blocked off the heads/exhaust. Could anyone please help explain what and where the vacuum lines go in the attached pictures? (there is also one electrical connector I am unsure about) Right now the third picture, is the one where I currently have a vacuum leak from, but I'm not sure what it's for as it disappears under the intake, next to the fuel regulator vacuum line. Overall if someone can help explain what each vacuum line does, and which I can remove with the smog pump being gone, I would really appreciate it. I wasn't sure if the two sets of vacuum lines on the passenger tree, under the EGR system, were strictly smog pump related or where to cap anything. In the end, I'm trying to maintain my EGR for now, but have deleted the A/C and Smog Pump, and want to get as much out of the engine bay as possible...

 

[wbrockstar]

1st pic=
The wiring harness youre holding in the first picture belongs to the ac clutch cycling pressure switch,which is screwed into the accumulater/drier tank(deleted on your car) Just tape it up to keep the elements out.

2nd & 3rd pic=
The two seperate sets of vacuum hoses are normally plugged into each other by a white plastic block/splice with 4-5 male ports on each side of it,but its apparently missing on your ride.You can see it in the picture at the bottom.Those hoses in each picture plug into one another with this part.You dont have to use it though.It was put there as a way to quickly disconnect those hoses from each other.If you grab each one of those hoses and pull really hard,they will pop loose from the rubber block and you can just use a regular vacuum splice to connect each hose to its matching hose on the other rubber block.Once you pull the hoses out of both rubber blocks,this is what they belong to::
(Red hose)=connects to the black hose leading to the small port at the back of the upper intake.If the black hose is the one youre getting the vacuum leak from,it will go away once you connect it to the red hose.
(Green hose)=connects to the white hose leading to the egr valve.This hose should only have vacuum during cruise conditions.If it has vacuum during idle,acceleration or wot,the evr solenoid is most likely defective.
(Black hose)=can be plugged/capped since it normally connects to a smog valve
(White hose)=can be plugged/capped since it normally connects to a smog valve

4th pic=
Your last picture shows the evr (egr vacuum regulator) solenoid.It supplies vacuum to the egr valve and is controlled by the computer.
The red vacuum hose I just referred to above should connect to the black hose leading to the small port on the back of the upper intake.
The green hose I just referred to above should connect to the white hose leading to the egr valve.
The top port of the evr solenoid goes to the egr valve.
The bottom port goes to the fitting on the back of the upper intake.


A picture of the upper intake is shown below.It has all of its ports labeled as to which hose belongs with each fitting.

The vacuum diagram shown matches your vacuum route except for the hose leading to the map sensor.So ignore the map sensor hose but all other hoses belong.

 

[Pcakes]

1st pic=
The wiring harness youre holding in the first picture belongs to the ac clutch cycling pressure switch,which is screwed into the accumulater/drier tank(deleted on your car) Just tape it up to keep the elements out.

2nd & 3rd pic=
The two seperate sets of vacuum hoses are normally plugged into each other by a white plastic block/splice with 4-5 male ports on each side of it,but its apparently missing on your ride.You can see it in the picture at the bottom.Those hoses in each picture plug into one another with this part.You dont have to use it though.It was put there as a way to quickly disconnect those hoses from each other.If you grab each one of those hoses and pull really hard,they will pop loose from the rubber block and you can just use a regular vacuum splice to connect each hose to its matching hose on the other rubber block.Once you pull the hoses out of both rubber blocks,this is what they belong to.
Red hose=connects to the black hose leading to the small port at the back of the upper intake.If this is the hose youre getting the vacuum leak from,it will go away once you connect it to the red hose.
Green hose=connects to the white hose leading to the egr valve.This hose should only have vacuum during cruise conditions.If it has vacuum during idle,acceleration or wot,the evr solenoid is most likely defective.
Black hose=can be plugged/capped since it normally connects to a smog valve
White hose=can be plugged/capped since it normally connects to a smog valve

4th pic=
Your last picture shows the evr (egr vacuum regulator) solenoid.It supplies vacuum to the egr valve and is controlled by the computer.
The red vacuum hose I just referred to above should connect to the black hose leading to the small port on the back of the upper intake.
The green hose I just referred to above should connect to the white hose leading to the egr valve.
The top port of the evr solenoid goes to the egr valve.
The bottom port goes to the fitting on the back of the upper intake.


A picture of the upper intake is shown below.It has all of its ports labeled as to which hose belongs with each fitting.

The vacuum diagram shown matches your vacuum route except for the hose leading to the map sensor.So ignore the map sensor hose but all other hoses belong.

Thank you very much for this reply, this actually helped clarify a lot. Unfortunately I do know which white plastic connector you were talking about... my work space is a mess so I had no idea what it was and just kicked it away . If you also happen to know... I'm also curious about the two solenoids/ vacuum line setups under the egr solenoid as well... I thought I read somewhere that these were for the smog pump as well, but I wasn't sure... are these possible to delete?

 

[wbrockstar]

Thank you very much for this reply, this actually helped clarify a lot. Unfortunately I do know which white plastic connector you were talking about... my work space is a mess so I had no idea what it was and just kicked it away . If you also happen to know... I'm also curious about the two solenoids/ vacuum line setups under the egr solenoid as well... I thought I read somewhere that these were for the smog pump as well, but I wasn't sure... are these possible to delete?

If your catalytic converters have been removed,you can absolutely delete them.They were put there to supply vacuum to the tab/tad valves,which were the valves that were inline with the smog pump.Smog pump air was sent to the heads when the engine was cold and sent to the converters when it was hot,through the valves and hoses youve removed.These components are only needed if converters are still in place.The parts youre referring to are called the tab/tad solenoids.
Tab(thermactor air bypass) Tad(thermactor air diverter)
They supply vacuum to the tab/tad valves you removed.If you dont wanna get codes for the solenoids,after you remove them,you can simply buy two 75ohm 3watt resistors,bend both ends of each resistor into a 90° angle then insert each resistor into the wiring harness plug for the tab/tad solenoid.That'll prevent you from getting codes 81 & 82 on a koeo/koer test.However,having these codes present wont cause a check engine light or driveability issues so you dont have to add the resistors if you dont want to.Some guys do it because they dont wanna see those codes popping up,but those codes wont cause issues even without the resistors in place.Codes 44 & 94 might be present still,but theres no way to rid these codes and they wont cause a cel or driveability issues either.So after doing the resistor trick,if you run a koeo/koer scan and get code 44 & 94,its the equivalent of having code 11(system pass) If youve deleted the smog components,canister purge valve and the egr valve,its normal to get codes 33,81,82,84,85,44 & 94.These are called soft codes and wont cause a cel or driveability issues.
Theres no downside to keeping the egr valve.During part throttle cruise conditions it:
1) Reduces combustion chamber temps
2) Allows for a leaner fuel mixture
3) Increases timing advance

You can use the vacuum diagram below (ignore the map sensor hose portion if youve got a 89-93 model) to delete the vacuum related components you no longer need like the lines to the solenoids,solenoids,blue vacuum check valve and even the vacuum canister inside the fenderwell,if you want.Removal of the passenger front wheel and plastic splash shield will grant you access to the canister & lines.The bulb shaped vacuum reservoir is for the ac system so dont remove it.The reservoir thats shaped like a can is the one for the solenoids so you can remove it if you want to.

Hope this helps.