Ford Mustang Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So the rack and pinion on my car is toast it just leaks out all the fluid in a matter of hours, can someone please tell what kinda trouble is ahead of me (if any) gettin the old rack out and gettin the new one in.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Position a drain pan to catch the fluid from the power steering lines.
  3. Remove the one bolt retaining the flexible coupling to the input shaft.
  4. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie rod ends and separate the tie rod studs from the spindles.
  5. Remove the two nuts, insulator washers and bolts retaining the steering rack to the crossmember. Remove the front rubber insulators.
  6. Position the rack to allow access to the hydraulic lines and disconnect the lines.
  7. Remove the steering rack.
To install:
  1. Install new plastic seals on the hydraulic line fittings.
  2. Install the rack on the mounting spikes and install the hydraulic lines. Tighten the fittings to the following:
    • 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm) on 1989 vehicles
    • 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-33 Nm) on 1990-93 vehicles
The hoses are designed to swivel when properly tightened. Do NOT attempt to eliminate looseness by over-tightening the fittings.
  1. Install the front rubber insulators. Make sure all rubber insulators are pushed completely inside the gear housing before installing the mounting bolts.
  2. Insert the input shaft into the flexible coupling. Install the mounting bolts, insulator washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm) while holding the bolts. Install and tighten the flexible coupling bolt to 20-30 ft. lbs. (28-40 Nm).
  3. Connect the tie rod ends to the spindle arms and install the retaining nuts. Tighten to 35-47 ft. lbs. (48-63 Nm). After tightening, tighten the nuts to their nearest cotter pin castellation and install new cotter pins.
  4. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to OFF and connect the negative battery cable.
  6. Fill the power steering system with the proper type and quantity of fluid.
  7. If the tie rod ends were loosened, check and adjust the front end alignment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
After my recent rack and pinion swap (which faught me and a dealership mechanic of fords for 20 years the whole time) got it in and a new pump to finish the job. Everything went well untill i cut the low pressure hose for the power steering see pictures of gushed blood below! The cut went down took a nice slice into my finger almost to the bone... Luckaly the guy i was working with his wife happens to be a RN and she cleaned it out and got me all fixed up in a hurry to finush that rack haha! Anyways it steers like a mustang again :bigthumbsup


EDIT I forgot to add that i took these pictures while i was still bleeding so their was more blood as i was waiting for a towel :bigthumbsup
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,975 Posts
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Position a drain pan to catch the fluid from the power steering lines.
  3. Remove the one bolt retaining the flexible coupling to the input shaft.
  4. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie rod ends and separate the tie rod studs from the spindles.
  5. Remove the two nuts, insulator washers and bolts retaining the steering rack to the crossmember. Remove the front rubber insulators.
  6. Position the rack to allow access to the hydraulic lines and disconnect the lines.
  7. Remove the steering rack.
To install:
  1. Install new plastic seals on the hydraulic line fittings.
  2. Install the rack on the mounting spikes and install the hydraulic lines. Tighten the fittings to the following:
    • 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm) on 1989 vehicles
    • 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-33 Nm) on 1990-93 vehicles
The hoses are designed to swivel when properly tightened. Do NOT attempt to eliminate looseness by over-tightening the fittings.
  1. Install the front rubber insulators. Make sure all rubber insulators are pushed completely inside the gear housing before installing the mounting bolts.
  2. Insert the input shaft into the flexible coupling. Install the mounting bolts, insulator washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm) while holding the bolts. Install and tighten the flexible coupling bolt to 20-30 ft. lbs. (28-40 Nm).
  3. Connect the tie rod ends to the spindle arms and install the retaining nuts. Tighten to 35-47 ft. lbs. (48-63 Nm). After tightening, tighten the nuts to their nearest cotter pin castellation and install new cotter pins.
  4. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  5. Turn the ignition switch to OFF and connect the negative battery cable.
  6. Fill the power steering system with the proper type and quantity of fluid.
  7. If the tie rod ends were loosened, check and adjust the front end alignment.
What is the point of putting the car in the run position? You can just not push the button under the column so the wheel will not lock and you can turn the wheels freely by hand.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top