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Yuyo507

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 90 Mustang convertible 5.0 motor with lots of mods but just recently i put in new msd set up with msd distributor, msd box, msd coil, and msd wires. Soon as i dropped the new distributor in the car was running a bit off but i drove it any ways since it was the only car I had. Few weeks went by and I found a bit of time and tried to get the timing done by this so called mech. he pulled the distributor out but didnt mark it so now the car will not turn over the engine it cranks and cranks but will not start. I tried removing #1 plug spinning crank till pressure builds and replacing plug and wire but when i go to drop in distributor I'm lost do i just drop it in?? can some one please help....a
 
This is fragmentary advice.. I may not have it all correct so I welcome anyone correcting me ....

You have to find cylinder#1, and know the firing order of a small-block Ford. I think#1 is closest to the radiator on the passenger side of the hood.
Disconnect the battery so that you don't start the engine by turning her over and get your arm mangled in the fan/belts should she want to start ( you say she is so out of time that this may not happen, but you don't want to lose any limbs here ... )

Take out the spark plug to #1. Suggest you use a socket wrench to turn the crank pully, do so until you hear the rush of air indicating the piston has travelled all the way up the stroke ( this is called Top Dead Center, or TDC ). Since the head is installed and you only have the spark plug hole, you can't see this very well/at all, unless you have a the neck of a giraffe.
If you stick your finger in the hole you should feel the rush of air as she comes up towards the cylinder head ( compression ).
Now you get the distributor assembly, find which wire is to #1. Make sure the rotor is right underneath the terminal to cylinder / wire #1.
This may take some doing to attempt to keep the distributor shaft from turning...Set the distributor in and secure with the bolt. It ought to be facing front like all normal appearances ( not towards the firewall ! )
Reinstall the spark plug to #1, and reconnect the spark plug wire and the battery. Hit the starter and pray ( a lot ). If she runs, get a timing light on her and set to specs.

The aim of all of this is to get the piston where it should be mechanically ( top of the stroke ) with the rotor positioned under #1 spark plug wire so when the current shoots thru to generate a spark from the plug the piston is where it should be at Top Dead Center.

When I was in my later teen years, I took the heads off the 289 that was in our Country Squire wagon and had a valve job done on the heads, then reassembled the heads/intake etc. I think I marked the distributor before I pulled her out ( chalk/paint marks on the engine & side of the distributor but I remember it was touchy setting her back in. I did this in the early/mid 1970's so it is long ago. A '67 289 was very simple to work on but yours is still a small block Ford ( still my favorite engine of all time ).

Good Luck, and see if you get any other advice from other forum members before you proceed. I'm going on memeories of almost 40 years ago....:kooky:
 
This is how its done.Pull the #1 spark plug (passenger side front).With you finger over the plug hole slowly rotate the motor using a socket on the balancer bolt.As soon as you feel air trying to push your finger off the plug hole you are now on the compression stroke slowly bring the motor to TDC.Now drop the distributor in lining the rotor up with the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap.Put the plug back and check and double check your plug wires to be sure you have the correct firing order.With the spout connector removed start the car and set you base timing to 10-14 degrees before TDC.Put the spout connector back in and you are good to go.Be sure to snug the distributor hold down as well.
 
I have to add that when you drop the distributor in, since the gears are on a helix, when it falls into place it will turn slightly. Common mistake is to turn the distributor once it's dropped it like that, which is what being a tooth off means. Make sure when you drop it in, the rotor is still pointing at the #1 wire without having to rotate anything.
 
I usually do it by getting the timing pointer to TDC or 0" on the balancer. check that the dizzy is at #1, If not you are 180" out. rotate crank again 1 time to 0. You are now on the #1 cylinder. It's a 50/50 chance you get it right the first time. My way just saves you from pulling the plug. BTW, after that "so called mechanic" reinstalled the dizzy, did the car run? if not, he probably set it 180 out.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
thank you guys I was getting everything right but where I was messing up at was that i was pointing the rotor at the #1 spark plug itself like the so call mech said but im about to go out and get on it will return with feedback thanks:bigthumbsup
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
ok so for some reason there is no spark coming from the coil tried replacing the coil and nothing.. One concern is that when I connect the battery wires it seems like something is staying on cause the wire sparks kind of hard any reason anything would be staying on
 
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