Sorry for the late replay PhoenixSheriden I haven't gotten the codes off of it yet. Going to by a code reader later today. For the tune up I put new spark plug wires, new belts, new egr valve, new fuel filter, new K&N air filter in, new spark plugs (was told gap to be set at .044), and I cleaned out the throttle body and idle control valve too. In facted I just cleaned out the throttle body about 200 to 300 miles ago. Not sure if I did a good enough job if it is idling like this now. Should also add that my gas mileage seems to be going down too.
91 2.3 idle problem manual trans
Just adding this info in because it may help solve my problem. A month or so ago I posted how my check engine light comes on and my rpm gauge jumps all over the plays. Even though the gauge jumps, it does not effect the true idle of the car. Now my car starts up fine goes to idle around 800 to 1000 then drops to 500 or lower. At that point it ether stays idling around 500 or just dies. Car will start right back up after it dies. If i feather the pedal and keep the rpms around 800 for 5 minutes and let go off the gas the car will idle fine or if I drive it for a few minutes it does the same thing. The only changes i have done to this car lately is that the day before the idle problem start witch was this last Friday. Is that I disconnected my negative cable to hook up a new socket for the light under the hood. I also put on a new clutch cable. I did a full tune up about a year ago and I have only put 5000 miles on it scenes then. I am bout to just take it down to the Ford dealer and have them run an engine diagnostic if i can't get this fixed over Thanksgiving week end.
Thank you for any help
Thank you for any help
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I bought some specific cleaner for the mass air flow sensor and I will try that out. I was going to get the equus 3145 code reader for the fords but did not end up buying it. The guy at the store told me scenes the check engine light doesn't stay on all of the time I won't be able to pull codes off the computer if the check engine light is not on. The check engine light only comes on every so often when I am driving and shut off when I come to a stop. Kind of weird. He did offer at least one suggestion. Told me to check my heat sensors by the thermostat and exhaust manifold. Told me if one or both are bad that if could effect my RPMs and my gas millage will go down too. Any ideas on that.http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&...w=131&start=0&ndsp=52&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:86
So i finaly got the code reader and all it would give me was ether 000 or 10. Damn connector and wires where so corroded that I had to cut, strip and put new connectors on the ends. Odd thing is when I did the first test the radiator fan turned on for a few seconds. Not sure if that happens you any of you guys. Should also add that I did the test a few more times after that and I only got code 10 on the first test. Maybe I am not doing it right. But I fallowed the instruction book on every set
Positive that I go the 10, but it was only 1 time out of the 4 other tries. Other wise it always showed 000. I will check the wires again and make sure the connection is good. As i posted the wire harness was corroded and one of the wires was broke. So I had to put on new connectors. I don't like changing the wire harness but I didn't have much of a choice. When I get a chance I will post some picture and will try it again tomorrow.
Ok. So i redid the connectors and even used a wire brush on the copper wire too. With the new ends I got a good enough connection to get codes of off the car. I got 111, a 10, and a 224. Ignore the 10, that number was just put in to separate 111, and 224. Sorry no video.
111 was from the O test, key on engine not running. The 224 is from test C witch is the continuous memory.
111 was from the O test, key on engine not running. The 224 is from test C witch is the continuous memory.
1 - 6 of 11 Posts
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