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92 LX 4 cyl Code Help

1417 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  mg man 75
Replaced the catalytic converter.

Diagnostic throwing these codes. Looked on web, cannot figure out.

Could someone tell me what the following codes mean and what I need to do to fix.

Thought replacing converter would help, as it was completely clogged...barely runs...no acceleration. Replaced fuel filter, too.
Your help is very appreciated.

Codes:

126

157

181

223

224

327

328

Thank you again for your help.
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Ford OBD Trouble Codes –

Scroll down to the bottom and you'll see them but here I did it for you:

(R) = Engine Running test (M) = Memory code (O)=Key On Engine Off test

126 -(O,R,M)- MAP or BARO sensor out of range – ">MAP

157 -(R,M)- Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded – MAF

181 -(M)- Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control

223 -(M)- Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault – Ignition Systems

224 -(M)- Failure in ignition coil primary circuit – Ignition Systems

327 -(O,R,M)- EGR feedback signal is/was low – EVR or PFE

328 -(O,R,M)- EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low – EVR
Thank you for the response.

I'm admittedly a dumb one regarding auto repair.

What needs replacing?

My brother in law is a diesel mechanic but not sure he's going to know what to do.

Any suggestions?

Help is needed!
When was the last time the battery was removed? Because if you do it will reset the codes then drive it around until what happened happens again and then take the codes.. But from what used it could be the egr position sensor little greyish white thing that goes into the egr held by3 "screws" I don't know if your car has a map sensor but it says you do so check the lines for corrosion and then check the vacuum line. For the maf check to see if any wires are corroded before you change that and if you do want to change it look at a scrap yard for one. The ones with M means that they have been stored in the computers memory so it could have happened awhile ago or just recent that's why I ask about the battery.
Battery replaced when I got the car about 3 months ago.

A reset sounds like a good idea.

I'll check the thing's you've said.

Thank you!
Clear the codes and drive it as posted. There is to many codes. Start from scratch . peace tom
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Reset the codes and take them again either next time something happens or in like a few days
Battery Time

How long does the battery have to be disconnected in order to reset the codes?

Do I have to drive it for any length of time afterwards before getting the codes?
So to answer both your posts, either drive it until your car does something weird or for a few days, but it would need to do something weird or off to even get a code
Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, both coil packs, and reset the codes.

Engine is running better than b4 all this, but:

Seems about one half power and wants to stall when I stop.

What are your thoughts?

New set of plugs?
Replace MAF Sensor?
EGR?

Thank's!
Is the rpm reading like half the correct rpm? Near as can remember sign of one of the coil packs or ignition module on intake. Sorry can't remember which. Maurice
The RPM is not working.

I replaced both coil packs.
Did you pull codes again?
Yes Stustu07

They are

126 MAP or Barometric sensor out of range

328 EGR Valve Position

157 MAF Sensor fault

What would be your advice?

Your help is very appreciated
Caution: Do not drive it for very long with a misfire or you will need to replace the catalytic converter AGAIN. Misfires destroy cats.
If you do not know how to troubleshoot the DTCs that you have, you need to get help from someone who does. There are too many possibilities to try to fix all of this without being hands on to do some tests. There is no "turn that screw to the left" type fix for these.
Thank you Davido

Another dumb question

What does the MAP Sensor do?

Any opinion if this may or may not be a problem?
For the egr position sensor unbolt it from the egr and see if anything changes... As for the map, I honestly don't know how to check the besides checking the wires and vacuum line to it, I don't know if there's a way to take a voltmeter and check...
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