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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I have an 94 gt wondering if the egr tube is supposed to come apart where the corrugated part ends or is the tube supposed to be totally solid? Thanks in advance
 

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"The following info & picture is a quote from 99 Grumpy [email protected] the corral"

By design the tube is actually a 2-piesce design to look like one piece. When you purchase new, it will be all one tube, but is actully 2 pieces. But after time, the coiled section will seperate rendering it useless and a new one is in order.
The part that is the straight tube has a female bellow that wraps around the coil portion of the tube on the last coil. Some are bellowed, and others the straight tube are tucked inside the last coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mine comes apart at the bottom side of the corrugated tube it sits on top of it and there's a smaller diameter tube in the middle.
 

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It unscrews from the header and on the other end it unscrews from the egr valve.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It unscrews from the header and on the other end it unscrews from the egr valve.


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I already know and understand that I replaced the egr valve and position sensor was wondering if the tube was designed to come apart at the corrugated part of the tube I'm assuming not.
 

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If your tube has broken where the straight tube meets the corrugated section,you'd be much better off replacing it rather than trying to repair it.Its too thin to weld & JB Weld usually doesnt hold for more than a few days to weeks.That tube gets super hot & it eventually cracks or develops holes.The corrugated section was supposedly put there to reduce cracking,which can occur due to vibration.I would imagine it makes installation easier too,since the corrugated section allows you to bend the tube somewhat.Warpage can occur with heat too,so Ford might have put the corrugated section there to compensate for that too.
 

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I think 90lx might have a egr pipe designed like the one shown in his picture,which looks like it might be one solid straight piece of pipe,instead of having the egr pipe with the corrugated section,like yours?? Im just assuming though.

I imagine you could cut the corrugated section out,loosely reinstall the top portion of the pipe to the egr valve,loosely reinstall the bottom portion of the pipe to the manifold,slide a new piece of pipe in place that fits over top of the two (already installed) pipes,tighten the nuts down at the egr valve & manifold,put a hose clamp at both ends of the spliced in pipe then put JB Weld around the spliced in pipe at both ends.However, I dont know how long,if at all,this rigged up setup would last,so if it were me I would just replace it & save yourself the headache.If it already broke at one spot,it'll probably break in a different spot months down the road.
 

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Mine comes apart at the bottom side of the corrugated tube it sits on top of it and there's a smaller diameter tube in the middle.
Even if the pipe is designed to where the smaller diameter pipe,at the bottom,fits inside of the corrugated section,the pipe doesnt have any play in it.In otherwords,if you were to try pulling the bottom piece of pipe upwards so it would go back inside of the corrugated section,it would pull right back out again as soon as you tighten the bottom nut up again.It would still have to be JB Welded,etc to close it up again.
The only way you might possibly be able to push the smaller pipe back up inside of the corrugated section would be to buy a double sided fitting,female threaded on the exhaust manifold side & male threaded on the egr pipe side.You would screw this fitting onto the exhaust manifold then mount the egr pipe to the fitting.The inch or so height of this fitting would force the smaller pipe upwards so it would go up inside of the corrugated section that inch or so.Hopefully my description wasnt confusing.Basically right now,because of the pipe being seperated,the bottom part of the pipe is too short to fit up inside of the corrugated section,so adding a fitting between the manifold & egr pipe should give you an inch or so of additional height which will force the smaller pipe upwards by that inch or so.
 

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Even if the pipe is designed to where the smaller diameter pipe,at the bottom,fits inside of the corrugated section,the pipe doesnt have any play in it.In otherwords,if you were to try pulling the bottom piece of pipe upwards so it would go back inside of the corrugated section,it would pull right back out again as soon as you tighten the bottom nut up again.It would still have to be JB Welded,etc to close it up again.

The only way you might possibly be able to push the smaller pipe back up inside of the corrugated section would be to buy a double sided fitting,female threaded on the exhaust manifold side & male threaded on the egr pipe side.You would screw this fitting onto the exhaust manifold then mount the egr pipe to the fitting.The inch or so height of this fitting would force the smaller pipe upwards so it would go up inside of the corrugated section that inch or so.Hopefully my description wasnt confusing.Basically right now,because of the pipe being seperated,the bottom part of the pipe is too short to fit up inside of the corrugated section,so adding a fitting between the manifold & egr pipe should give you an inch or so of additional height which will force the smaller pipe upwards by that inch or so.


I still have the original (stock headers) and it's a B to screw it on to the valve. If it were to break I'd buy a new one vs trying fix it.


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I still have the original (stock headers) and it's a B to screw it on to the valve. If it were to break I'd buy a new one vs trying fix it.


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I agree,I'd replace it too (like I stated in post #9)vs trying to repair it.
However if he's dead set on trying to repair it,the fix I mentioned is one way to do it.
I dont know why Ford had to change the design so that you'd have to use a pipe setup like.Well I know why,so they can sell you a replacement pipe to make more money.Ive always hated any egr system thats connected to the manifold by a thin piece of pipe.The Ranger Ive got uses a thin pipe setup too connected to the manifold & its got a 4" long crack running down the center of it.Those pipes just dont hold up to that kind of heat.
On the pipes with the corrugated section,they tend to break when you start loosening the big nut because the pipe tries to rotate too when you break the nut loose.I dont know if it would help to spray some penetrating oil between the pipe & the backside of the nut or not,that way when you start turning the nut the pipe will hopefully not be stuck to the nut.Oh well.
 
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I agree,I'd replace it too (like I stated in post #9)vs trying to repair it.

However if he's dead set on trying to repair it,the fix I mentioned is one way to do it.

I dont know why Ford had to change the design so that you'd have to use a pipe setup like.Well I know why,so they can sell you a replacement pipe to make more money.Ive always hated any egr system thats connected to the manifold by a thin piece of pipe.The Ranger Ive got uses a thin pipe setup too connected to the manifold & its got a 4" long crack running down the center of it.Those pipes just dont hold up to that kind of heat.

On the pipes with the corrugated section,they tend to break when you start loosening the big nut because the pipe tries to rotate too when you break the nut loose.I dont know if it would help to spray some penetrating oil between the pipe & the backside of the nut or not,that way when you start turning the nut the pipe will hopefully not be stuck to the nut.Oh well.


Yeah it's also a B to get off too. It also reduces the selection of aftermarket hearers. I hate that damn stove pipe looking thing. It looks like a friggin gas line for a house.

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Yeah just went through this problem LMFAO if it should not be broken or cracked, if yours is broken into two different pieces you need to get a new one or fabricate one out of soft copper from like home depot or whatever because this is an exhaust leak in the engine bay and you could get carbon monoxide poisoning, but you'll need a pipe cutting tool, flaring tool and a set of pipe benders. I fabricated one that got me by for a about a week and a half until the used one I found on ebay came in. You can call "Mustang Parts Salvage" google it to get the number and ask them if they have one, that's who I purchased mine from on eBay and I've also done quite a bit of business with these guys and never had any kind of issue. Anyways from MPS is was 39.99 with free shipping but through LMR.com it was over 70$ and I felt that was a rip-off.
 

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you need to get a new one or fabricate one out of soft copper from like home depot or whatever
Will soft copper hold up to the heat thats created by the exhaust gases, and more importantly,the direct/indirect heat coming off the exhaust manifold itself?? I know it'll hold up to hot coolant,etc,but have you tested it on your ride before?? Im not doubting it,Im just curious.... Thanks WB...
 
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