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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey y'all.
I'm having a fella replace my clutch for me since my low mile oem replacement crapped out. The majority of the friction material was gone. So, I'm having a dude put in Centerforce dual friction. He also replaced the motor mounts. They weren't broken but the rubber was dry rotted and cracked. They're probably eight or nine years old. Getting the motor mounts were a fiasco. The first time they ordered the wrong ones and the second time they gave me two lefts and one of the lefts was in a "right" box.
But overall progress thus far: Rear main seal in.
Rear main wear sleeve in.
Pilot bearing in.
Sealed rear of pan and retorqued.
I have a whole pile of rear end stuff I wouldn't mind having him do (that's what she said), but it might have to wait depending on how hard he nails me for labor on the clutch job. A set of 3.31 gears to replace my 3.73's arrived today. I think that's the last of the parts to add to the pile.
Speaking of piles, my spare parts pile that I'm never going to use is starting to pile up. After the rear end work I'll have a stock diff, 3.73 gears, and 28 spline axles lying around. What would y'all do, scrap it? I wonder what someone would pay for all of that plus a CAI? The shipping would probably be more than what someone would pay for a used 5 lug axle no? Maybe a fox dude wanting five lugs might want the stuff. What's fair to ask?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the clutch is done but the driveshaft is still out but I believe next week he's going to start doing the rear axles and such.
If aluminum driveshafts weren't so expensive it'd be a good time to get one but I don't think I'd get $300+ worth of performance out of one.
 

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I'm partial to Steeda products, but there are cheaper ones out there that will do the job just fine. I bet it'd be really easy to fabricate one...

As for the aluminum driveshaft, it's hard to say whether or not it's worth it. I splurged on one when I rebuilt my axle, but I didn't notice a difference with it. That's probably because I took my dear sweet time with the rebuild, and the car was out of commission for a few weeks. I wasn't able to compare them back-to-back on the same day.

Eh, U-joints don't cost much. Wouldn't hurt to just throw some new joints in the stock driveshaft and keep running it. You can always change your mind and go aluminum later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm partial to Steeda products, but there are cheaper ones out there that will do the job just fine. I bet it'd be really easy to fabricate one...

As for the aluminum driveshaft, it's hard to say whether or not it's worth it. I splurged on one when I rebuilt my axle, but I didn't notice a difference with it. That's probably because I took my dear sweet time with the rebuild, and the car was out of commission for a few weeks. I wasn't able to compare them back-to-back on the same day.

Eh, U-joints don't cost much. Wouldn't hurt to just throw some new joints in the stock driveshaft and keep running it. You can always change your mind and go aluminum later.
Yeah man I bet the dude who's putting it in could make a loop but he might charge more than if I bought one. AM had a Lakewood for $50.
I thought about doing u-joints, and I believe I probably will.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dropped the axles off to have the abs rings and wheel studs pressed in and I talked to 'ole boy and he quoted $450 to install the axles, diff, 3.31 r&p, and replacing bearings and seals. That's pretty much in the ballpark of what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The red speedo gear arrived.
But y'all know what sucks? I was going to have ole boy weld the driveshaft loop in and I was worried it wouldn't arrive before he put the driveshaft back on so I paid for two day shipping. So I tell him I had one coming and if he didn't have the shaft put in yet I'd like to do it. He replied, "Yeah it's no problem, I'm not going to be doing any work on it this week because I'm going on spring break." I was like what the F!? What grown-azz man goes on spring break!? He's about fifity and he works for American Airlines. He has a couple of college aged sons so maybe he's going to be doing something with them. A grownup on spring break.. Gimme a break.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TLqh73y9Cpg
 

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Maybe his spring break involves a different kind of red speedo. HEYO
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Before I brought ole boy the driveshaft loop and he’s going to weld it in before I get it home. That’s all that it lacks now so I guess I’ll have ‘er back home shortly. I kinda wish I did the rear myself just for the learning experience, but this go round letting him do it was probably for the best since he has a lift and tools out the ying-yang. He did a lot of work ole blue: new motor mounts, clutch, rear diff, ring and pinion, and axles. He’s slow but thorough.
I need to put 500 miles on it to break in the clutch.
Is there a break-in period for new rear ends?
 

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Looking good! I haven't seen a specific break-in procedure for this per Ford, just the new-car one that breaks in the engine and whatnot. I did come across this video, though:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looking good! I haven't seen a specific break-in procedure for this per Ford, just the new-car one that breaks in the engine and whatnot. I did come across this video, though:
Thanks my man! Dang, change oil after 500 miles huh.. Kinda stinks a little. I didn’t do that the last time. I guess maybe I ought to, but think of the millions of cars on the road that have never had a gear oil change in its “life.”
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Crap report.
The dude broke the hood latch cable. I think he broke the handle off but I’m not sure. He took the drivers seat out so he could weld a plate for the shaft loop to bolt to and he can’t get the seat to line back up to get it in because the forward/backward gears need replacing. It won’t go fwd or reverse w/out helping it along. It’s been needing replaced for sometime now, I just haven’t gotten to it because it’s expensive and boring. I’m gonna have to show him how to get it lined up so I can get it in and home.
There’s a dude that sells reman racks and parts for them. The reman rack w new motors and gears for $320 + $100 core. He also sells the gears and motors but the track needs to be trimmed to make them work. It’s bunk either way for a poor boy.
http://www.2men1garage.net/Ford-Mustang-1994---1998-Parts.html
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had to order a hood latch cable assy. Ford was $33, dorman was $13. I went Ford. I was surprised to see ford still sold one.
In need a new seat rack bedause a track is bent. What’s his face said he was heading to a pick n pull on Wed and he’d look. He talked about a manual rack, but f that. I doubt he’ll find a working power seat, I’ll just have him wrestle the old one back in there and break down and buy the high-azz reman power rack I guess..

Cable
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F4ZZ-16916-A-CABLE-ASY-CONTROL/dp/B000O0K19Q

Rack
http://www.2men1garage.net/Ford-Mustang-1994---1998-Parts.html

This sucks..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I went out to the wrecking yard. They had one 94-98 mustang with a power seat. I don’t know if it works or not though. They didn’t really want to sell me just the track, they wanted $70 for the whole seat. Track and all. The seat was pretty rough rough though but I don’t need it anyway.
All of the bolts were to where I could get them though so that’s about the only positive. I do need a seat track though, not just new motors. My up and down motor works and the fwd reverse motor makes noise. The fwd/R gear is messed up. It’ll go if ya force it and I think doing that bent the track over time. So I guess I could buy that seat and rebuild that track if need be. I don’t want a manual because they sit too low.
 
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