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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 GT convertible with only 36K on the odometer and it is real time capsule.

I have noticed that after I wash the car there is water inside the truck lid. I do not know where it is coming in but it seems to collect inside the rubber grommet that allows access to the nuts fastening the spoiler. Is there a gasket between the trunk lid and the spoiler and could this be entry point? Can they be replaced?

Also, she seems to run a little hot, at least the gauge runs up to where I feel a little uncomfortable. (It has been flushed and the coolant changed several times.) Can a later model fan shroud be installed? Do I also need to change the fan? Will the wiring just be a plug in?

dp
 

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I don't believe there is a gasket there. I recently pulled the spoiler off my 96 V6. IIRC, there seemed to be RTV compound on the backside of the nuts. When I replaced the spoiler, I put a ring of black RTV around the base of the stud bolts on the spoiler and on the back of the nuts before I screwed them on. I haven't noticed any water intrusion yet, but it hasn't rained much lately nor have I washed it lately.

I'm not familiar with V8 engines in particular, but the stock gauges are not known for their accuracy. Is the fan coming on about when it should; sitting for a while in traffic, when you turn the A/C on? Correct thermostat installed?

During normal driving my gauge is pretty much right in the middle, only going to then far side of the "M" before the fan turns on. But if the gauges have been removed or replaced, the needles may not have been reinstalled exactly in the same location.
 

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+1, take the nuts off and put some RTV. Are you going off the stock gauge? like mentined, they are not that reliable. Is the fan kicking on and when was the last time you change the thermostat?
 

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I recall reading a Ford TSB about a design change to the 96 MY GT radiator. Apparently some cars were running hot so Ford changed the design.

Please don't ask me for the TSB number. I no longer own a 96 and my access to 96 TSB's expired some time ago.

If you are in good with your local Ford dealer, maybe they could look it up. Or perhaps someone reading this with access to TSB's could look it up.

If you wish to get access to Ford TSB, go to alldatadiy.com and sign up. You would be surprised what kind of information are in TSB's. This would also get access to the Ford service manuals and wiring diagrams.

I would assume that a new radiator would be of the new design (otherwise there would be 1000's of other ppl out there with this problem).
 

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I recall reading a Ford TSB about a design change to the 96 MY GT radiator. Apparently some cars were running hot so Ford changed the design.
Maybe this is it. I didn't think about there being any TSBs before.
Article No.


96-25-12
  • AIR CONDITIONING - AIR CONDITIONING SHUTS OFF IN HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES AND VEHICLE MAY OVERHEAT - 4.6L AND GT OR COBRA
  • COOLING SYSTEM - OVERHEATING AND/OR VEHICLE GOING INTO THERMO PROTECTION MODE - VEHICLES WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND GT OR COBRA
Publication Date: DECEMBER 2, 1996
FORD:
1996 MUSTANG

ISSUE:

In severe operating environments (ambient temperatures above 38°C/100°F and/or extended high engine rpms) some vehicles may experience engine overheating and/or enter into the thermo protection mode. In thermo protection mode, the A/C system will shut off accompanied by a reduction in engine power. This may be caused by insufficient cooling from the cooling system in these types of environments.
ACTION:

Install a severe duty Cooling System Kit. The kit will increase the vehicle's cooling system capacity to operate more efficiently in severe conditions. Refer to the following text for additional information.

The Cooling System Kit will include a larger radiator, larger cooling fan, a revised A/C condenser and all necessary hardware.
NOTE: THIS TSB ARTICLE PRIMARILY AFFECTS THE WARM SOUTHERN UNITED STATES (ALABAMA, ARIZONA, CALIFORNIA, COLORADO, FLORIDA, GEORGIA, LOUISIANA, NEVADA, NEW MEXICO, OKLAHOMA, SOUTH CAROLINA, TEXAS AND UTAH).

APPLICATION CHART Vehicle Part Number GT w/manual trans. and w/o ABS F6ZZ-8005-EA GT w/manual trans. and w/ABS F6ZZ-8005-FA GT w/auto. trans. and w/o ABS F6ZZ-8005-GA GT w/auto. trans. and w/ABS F6ZZ-8005-HA Cobra F6ZZ-8005-JA

PART NUMBER PART NAME F6ZZ-8005-EA Cooling System Kit F6ZZ-8005-FA Cooling System Kit F6ZZ-8005-GA Cooling System Kit F6ZZ-8005-HA Cooling System Kit F6ZZ-8005-JA Cooling System Kit
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:

NONE
WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 962512A Install Modification Kit 4.1 Hrs.
DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 8005 11
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It seems a little strange that there is no gasket between the outside of the deck lid and the bottom of the spoiler. I will back off the nuts and put some RV silicone on the nuts on the inside of the deck lid to prevent water getting into the trunk, but won't the water lay around the top of the bolts and rust the lid or the hole that the bolt goes through? Should I pull the spoiler and silicone on the top of the deck lid to prevent this?

The fan seems to be operating fine and pulls down the gauge when it comes on, but when the needle gets to touching the A in NORMAL, I get a little nervous. I thought I read that the 96's did not have a fan shroud and they had overheating problems and then Ford redesigned things for 97 adding the shroud and removing the honeycomb grille to improve air flow.

I was hoping to just get by with a bolt on solution to avert a potential problem. Maybe I should leave well enough alone, what do you think?

Thanks for all the help,

dp
 

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I pulled my spoiler off because I noticed rust forming and creeping out from underneath the spoiler mounts on the top of the deck lid.

I pulled the spoiler off, lightly sanded off the rust, and then sprayed a rattle-can rust preventer over the rust and bare metal on the deck lid. I then covered the rust inhibitor spray with the actual car color, though most of the rust inhibitor got covered by the spoiler mount anyways.

I guess, if you really wanted to keep water out from underneath the spoiler mount you could use a clear tube of gasket maker or caulk to go completely around the base as well as around the bolts and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
EPILOGUE - Before removing the spoiler, I discovered the nuts were fairly loose. I tightened them down a little more and that seemed to take care of the leak. I tried to be careful not to overtighten so as to cause the spoiler to crack the deck lid paint. All seems well.

dp
 
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