I need to replace my front wheel bearings and I dont know where to get them. What do I require to change them out. Do the A2 and A6 fit I went to auto zone and they said that they may fit. Please help.
Do you have drum or disc brakes, bearing may be different but not sure. Best thing is to take the inner and outer bearing from one side and let them cross reference the number on the old bearing. Get new grease seals also.
Grease the new bearings with some good wheel bearing grease and install in the reverse order that you took them out, doing one side @ a time with the other still together if you need a reference. Not hard to do.
Yes i have drum brakes..and i beleive they are the stock spindles.Can any body give me details on how to performe the actual removal and install of the bearings. other than grease seals is there any alse i need to replace.
Also is a Idler arm repair kit a good thing to do or should I just repalce the whole arm.Thanks for your feedback.
Get a shop manual for your year from any mustang parts supplier they are <$50 and you will use it a lot. The manual will walk you through the steps and explain how to torque the spindle nut. You need to get the spindle nut the right tightness (you don't just tighten it down) or you will wear out the bearings/spindle in short order.
4 bearings (2/side), 1 seal/side, wheel bearing grease and some paper towels and you should be ready.
If your idler arm is in good shape and just needs a fresh bushing you can change that, no need to change the whole thing if it's not all wobbled out.
I can see you are in good hands on this BUT
I would like to explain a little so you know what you are
This is a pretty simple job but must be done correct.
I strongly agree with the purchasing of a shop manual,
it sill help a LOT n the future.
When doing the bearings you have a few options, I will
Some people only swap out the bearings and not the race
that is your choice - I like to swap them both.
The race is the collar that the bearings run against.
So this is a quick explanation of what is involved.
I like to remove the front tire one at a time.
With the tire off - -you will see the center "hub" that is covered
with a "dust cap".
Look at the side of the dust cap where it meets the drum. You can take a
screw driver and wedge the dust cap off.
Now you will see a large NUT with a cotter pin through it.
Straigten the cotter pin and pull it out.
Back off the nut - -then remove the large washer behind the nut.
You will now see the outer bearing. "you have both outer and inner bearings.
With the nut and washer out, the drum should rock a little allowing you to
pull it off the lug nuts.
You will be working with the drum.
The outer bearing comes right out in your hand with the drum.
The inner bearing requires more work. Turn the drum over and you will see
the inner bearing inside the center hole of the drum.
There is a seal that is pressed into the back of the drum. OInce again - you pry
it out using a screw driver. Now the inner bearing will remove.
So you now have the inner and outer bearings out.
Some people only swap the bearings at this point - -BUT - bfore installing you need to "Pack" the bearings with a good bearing greese.
Force the greese into all the little bearings - - they make a tool for this but it can be done by hand.
Now for the races - - -these are the metal rings that the bearings ride on.
Look at the drum from the back side looking inward to the hole.
You will see where the "race" sits in. You take a punch and hit the race outwards.
So to remove the front or outer race - you work from the backside.
There is a few ways to remove the race BUt I will try to keep this simple.
Once the outer rac is out - - flip the drum over and remove the inner in much the same manner.
Once the races are out - -you start the re-install.
Put in the new races - -the packeked inner bearing - then the seal for the inner.
Now you install the drum onto the spindle - -then install the outer bearing
the washer - the nut and adjust the bearing. As mentioned - -you need to load the bearing with the correct pressure.
For now a starting point is to tighten the nut and back off the nut 1/2 turn.
Install the cotter pin correctly - - install the dust cap and you are pretty close to done. I am at work so I don't hav e the torque number for the bearings here.
The idler arm is a pretty simple bolt in.
This is meant to give you a rough idea of what is in store. NOT gospel as I may have left out something.
Wow thanks that helped out a lot. If you have a chance can you give me the torque number. So Im not sure are you saying it would be ok If get a rebuilt kit for the idler arm or just replace the whole thing. Once again thank you Print Dad.
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!