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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched the site and have surely missed the thread but dont kill me just yet, I am trying to find the vacum specs for 5.0 mine just does not seem to run 100% i have a wideban a/f guage that shows almost pegged at 18 when it starts and idles and will not richen up and at cruise 80 [email protected] it reads 14-15 and fuel pressure is 38-40 with line off. It also has what feels like a dead spot after about 2500 rpm and then picks up again about 3500. All this may be related or not just looking for a little help
 

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I have searched the site and have surely missed the thread but dont kill me just yet, I am trying to find the vacum specs for 5.0 mine just does not seem to run 100% i have a wideban a/f guage that shows almost pegged at 18 when it starts and idles and will not richen up and at cruise 80 [email protected] it reads 14-15 and fuel pressure is 38-40 with line off. It also has what feels like a dead spot after about 2500 rpm and then picks up again about 3500. All this may be related or not just looking for a little help
Hey 5.0 do you have the org.map sensor you may want to look in that direction. Ken S
 

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where is the map sensor located there does not appear to be any sensors on the upper intake is it built in to the maf sensor or seperate
 

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I was also wondering if I have too much tb on the motor I really thought about changing it to a 65 since I dont have boost but I am going to change the heads and possible cam this year is a 70 too much
 

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Heck no

I was also wondering if I have too much tb on the motor I really thought about changing it to a 65 since I dont have boost but I am going to change the heads and possible cam this year is a 70 too much
Throttle body and Mass air are fine, some people say that its over kill, but i wont get into that right now. Ill just say it aint true. Nothings wrong with the injectors either.

MAP/BP sensor is on the firewall beside the vacuum tree. its a black box with a 3 wire electrical connector on it.

I suggest running the codes, just follow the link below and post up the codes you get. Both KOEO and KOER.

DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure

It also give abbreviations on words I may use, so you will understand some of the BS Ill be saying.
 

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alright i went to the car thinking a code or two would pop up but i got about 5 codes and then realized i would not remeber by the time i got to the pc so i grabbed a pen and paper and ran the test again and now i get an 85 code and it looks like it flashes 11 i did get a 33 for sure the first time. why would the codes go away do they clear after you read them? also i still have what looks like original map but could just be old. my tps is set at .94 and reads about 4.6 wot that looks fine to me
 

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Discussion Starter #8
also the egr is still on the intake but no pipe is run to it so pretty much blocked off
 

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also the egr is still on the intake but no pipe is run to it so pretty much blocked off
EGR is internal on Fox Body's, so no down tube to the H-pipe.

Re-run the KOEO test and as soon as codes start to flash, remove the jumper wire(not the test light), turn key off. Hook back up jumper and rerun KOEO and KOER self tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i will do that when i get back to the shop in the morning but another weird thing is after checking the codes the a/f went to about 13-15 start up and idle still cruise at 14-15 but seems to be running a little more rich and i did not change a thing. weird i will get back to you
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I still only get the one code and what ever happened it seems to be running much better does the computer override the sensors if failure is detected kind of like limp home mode on newer cars? dont know but for now it is running great
 
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