a little off subject

It will bolt up to the engine w/o problem. Like you said, fabbing the crossmember isn't too hard. Drive shaft will probably need to be custom made.

The shifter handle is too short for a truck. Putting it in the truck makes the knob kinda low. Use a short throw shifter and a longer handle. It will shift like a truck, not a Mustang.

The tricky part will be the clutch linkage. Linkage in the 60's was a push rod affair. '95 parts use a cable pull. You'll have to adapt a cable linkage in there. SOmetimes easy, sometimes not. Or you could spend big bux and use a hydraulic ram or hydraulic throw out bearing.

well this project took a turn for the worst. when i tore into it i found the clutch was soaked with oil. so looked at the trans seal and rear main on the 351w. well trans is good no leaks. it was coming from the rear main, so i went and picked up a rear main for it, pulled the motor out of the truck again, poped the pan off then the rear main cap well the crank has a nasty little groove wore in it from the main seal, bearing was trashed. then i thought if that one is toast what about the other ones? pulled the main caps off and rods caps off all of them are burnt up not just gouged but all the caps are blued from heat. so that lower end is done no its going to be a 408 stroker. now what trans would be good behind this soon to be monster =]. i was thinking a built c4 from b&m. and what is a good stroker kit forged is all ways better. im thinking a kit from ford strokers would be the way to go


any and all thought welcome thanks:scratchchin

I have a 68 f100, that has a 390, i bought the tremec 3550 5-speed that is made to go behind a toploader 4-speed bellhousing, so i could use my stock clutch linkage. If i remember right i just had to move the tranny crossmember back about an inch and had a new diveshaft made. As far as shifter, i put a short-throw shifter kit, with an indy hurst shifter,it works really good. With 3:50 rear end gears, 28" tires it does 70 around 2 grand, perfect for cruising and weekend racing.

I would not bother to machine the block to fit a new rotating assembly. By the time you do the machine work, the cleaning, buy alll the parts, run back and forth to the machine shop a few times.... you'll have spent a bunch of money.

Take a look at the price of a good crate motor. Most of the time it's cheaper to buy the crate motor. Pull the old motor out, swap the needed parts, and drop it back in. Usually a one day affair; sometimes two.

It's hard to come up with a good reason to rebuild an old Windsor.