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A Pony of a different race...

1235 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  5SpeedGT
Hello all. This is my first post on here due to the fact that I just got another mustang and I'm ready to gooo alll theee wayyyyyyyyy. Brief history...

I just received a 1979 Indy 500 Pace Car from my Uncle. It's been sitting in his hanger for over 10 years due to an oil problem and because he's in the military, he never had time to work on it. He was the origional owner and I have all origional documentation, receipts and even the origional window sticker.
The car was a complete mess when I first received it about 6 months ago. I was first planning on doing a full restro., but due to time and money I can't afford to do it right now. My plans for the car are to simply get it running and I'll worry about the rest later. Well, we all know how that goes.

This is the day my uncle drove the car up from Texas

Finally got her in the garage

My girlfriend helping out with the nitty gritty stuff

This is the motor as it stands right now. I can't go any further untill I get the heads.

You can't just start a project and NOT go all out. I'm using the origional block with the following:
- bored .30 over
- Summit rebuild kit 8.6.1 compression pistons
- Holley 4160 600cfm carb
- Edlebrock Performer intake manifold
- T/F Twisted Wedge heads (I'm actually getting these this Friday!!!)
- T/F 1.6 rockers
- Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/ 268, Lift .456/ .456

Does any one have any idea on the h/p and torque I could be looking at? The rep at Summit Racing was saying around 350 to the wheel but I want your imputs. Thanks.
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Thats awsome man! You should so leave it looking stock too. cause nobody really knows a lot about those out there. everyone thinks the old ones are slow. well you can teach them the truth! have fun with her, and kick some ass!
It looks like a nice combo that will probably net around 260 rwhp.

I would reccomend a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth instead of the Performer though. it's not that great of an intake and will choke the TW's. I would also look at the RPM cam: 224/[email protected], .496/.520, and also consider milling the TW's to get compression into the 9's. That should be good for 290-320 rwhp, and be very streetable.
looks like a straight car. cool, how does the interior look?
Nice car, keep her in good condition!
Only 260?

Only 260 RWH? That isn't a whole lot. I was going to buy those heads based on someone telling me over 300. Any one else have an opinion?

If that'll only put me at 260, I guess I'll just have to do a 100 shot of NOS. Ha. My goal was to be at 300 RWH.
It's the cam and intake that will limit the power. The heads can't do it all alone!
If I change out the cam and intake manifold, won't that change things a bit as far as the heads bolting right up? I've made sure everything is going to match.
Not at all. The Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth intakes will actually be a better match (Port size and flow) to the TW's than the Performer you have.
As far as bolting up, The TW's are designed to be used with standard small Ford bolt and port locations, so are the majority of aftermarket parts.

As far as the cam goes, as long as you stay with a hydraulic flat tappet style like you have now, nothing will need to be changed to accept a larger cam.

Like I stated before, the heads can't do it alone! They are capable of supporting well over 300 rwhp, but it's all in the combo. They need the supporting stuff like the right carb, cam, intake, and exhaust to do it.
Here's my stuff

If you have a second to go to, what is the difference between my intake and this one "EDL-21212." It's a Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds with Permastar. I think the permaster is just relating to the finish, but I really don't see a whole lot of a difference between the two. If I decide to go with the performer manifold you're sudgesting, will I see any increase w/o changing the cam as well? I really don't want to take i all apart again...Ha. here's the manifold I have now "EDL-2121," here is the carb "HLY-0-80457S," and here is my cam info:

Competition Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits

Basic Operating RPM Range:1,500-5,500 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:218
Duration at 050 inch Lift:218 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:268
Advertised Exhaust Duration:268
Advertised Duration:268 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.456
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.456
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.456 int./0.456 exh.
liftLobe Separation (degrees):110Intake Valve Lash (in):0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in):0.000
Grind Number:FS 268H-10
Computer Controlled:No
Lifters Included:Yes
Lifter Style:Hydraulic flat tappet

I should be getting the heads this wed so I plan on bolting everything up on thurs. The only thing I'm not too sure about is checking for rocker clearance, but I have a "how to" book(s) and it should go over everything.
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I'm reccomending the Performer RPM P/N 7121- It's a high rise dual plane, as opposed to the low rise smog version you have now.

Either that or the Weiand Stealth- P/N WND 8020. It's the same style as the RPM.

For a cam, I would try the Performer RPM- P/N EDEL-7122- it's designed to work with the RPM intake. I believe I posted the specs in my first post.
Check ou Summit for more detail.

The problems I see with your cam are: to little duration, too little lift, and a tight 110* LSA. For a street car, try and stick with an LSA of 112* or 114*

The Edelbrock has a 112* LSA btw.

Currently I'm running the Performer RPM intake, the RPM cam I mentioned, with GT40P heads and a Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. It idles at 800 RPM, temp's at 190* dead on, throttle resonse is great, and it runs like a raped ape! I am switching to an 80457 like yours though, I just think a Holley looks right and I've had good luck with this particular model in the past.

I would reccomend picking up a quick change vacumn housing ( HLY-20-59) kit, and a vacumn spring kit(HLY-20-13). It's $25 worth of stuff that will you will want to help dial it in.
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