ABS light and traction control light on...

78668 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by GT2012, Mar 9, 2017

Sonic-Blue-GT

Discussion Starter · Apr 4, 2012

Okay so I am having a problem with my abs. The light will come on with the traction control intermittently but traction control works fine. The abs doesn't work and I can't turn traction off even though the light says its off. The problem is that I cannot get my CarMD to pick up a code when I plug it in. Seems like it comes on when I don't want it on and when I do it won't come on!! From what I have read it is a dirty wheel speed sensor. But i am not sure. How would I figure out which one it is? Also how would I clean the sensor if it is the problem. I am loving the car but this is the only thing that is a dislike.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

RadRacer82

· #2 · Apr 4, 2012

The Bosch 5.3 EBTCM module (ABS computer) is known to develop a loose connection on the inside of the device. It's not just our year mustangs either, it's affects several dozen other car makes and models that use this type module to control the ABS and Traction Control systems.

Initial Symptoms include the ABS light coming on occasionally then turning off. Eventually the frequency of the light coming on will increase until it finally stays on almost all the time (this happened to me and it stayed on 99.9999% of the time except for the coldest days of the year) until finally I researched and confirmed it was the module by bringing it to a Ford dealership and they used their special computer to try to communicate with it and pull a code, but it was unable to. They said the module needed to be replaced, quoted me $855.05 for the part (still have the estimate sitting on the desk behind me).

I found out because it's a common problem there's repair shops out there that will fix the module if you detach it and ship it to them.
Found this guy on Ebay:
EBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Didn't even pay him the full price either, I offered him $80.00 and he accepted. Used the Youtube video as a guide to detach the module (in the ad) and successfully got it fixed. My ABS and Traction Control work fine now.

Total Cost= $80.00 + $11.85 shipping + 3 hours labor total of my weekend time
:bigthumbsup

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RadRacer82

· #3 · Apr 5, 2012

To clean the wheel sensors just spray them with brake cleaner readily available at all autoparts stores and most hardware stores. I really don't think this will fix the problem for you unfortunately.

Ford (St)Dealerships have the special tool required to read the ABS computer (provided that it feels like talking). They will charge you between $80-110 to try to pull the code for you. Ripoff, but it's the easiest way to localize the problem fastest possible way.

Incase you're interested in seeing the physical connection causing the problem (those 2 silver wires):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqtowdSDbxU

Please don't attempt the fix above, it's not as easy as it looks!
Yea, I've researched this problem a lot...

Sonic-Blue-GT

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 5, 2012

So it could be the module:cursing:. Is there a chance it is a wheel speed sensor? Because I saw the guide on YouTube on how to remove the module and it doesn't seem too difficult but the guy kept mentioning be careful not to bend the tubes. I can see myself doing this(knock on wood) and causing myself a lot more money and headache.

RadRacer82

· #5 · Apr 5, 2012

It's not possible to say with certainty whether it's the module or not without having Ford try to pull the error code.
Based upon your description of the symptoms and my experience with this I would say it probably is the module.
The system will trigger the lights and disable ABS and Traction Control ( both are part of the same system btw) if 1 or more of the wheel sensors report a problem, which could be caused be a dirty or faulty sensor.
But the ABS and Traction Control lights will usually stay on all the time if that is the case.

It's not that big of a deal though, the guy in that video makes it seem a little more difficult than removing the module really is.
I have to admit I was like you, really dreading the idea of having to take the part out, but i grabbed a wrench and torx screw driver one day after work and before I knew it, I had the part off!
Putting it back on the car took me no time at all since I knew exactly what I was doing at that point.

The hardest part is finding a good position to hold the screw drivers and wrenches to take off all the bolts on the shield and screws on the ABS unit itself. Take the air intake out before you start too!

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XDrizzleHellX

· #6 · Apr 7, 2012

most of the time it is a dirty sensor or a dirty or damaged abs ring. i havent had any personal experience with reparing the unit but it doesnt seem to bad. if this is going to be the first time you are ever trying something like this i would get someone who is good at this to be ready on standby just incase something does go wrong. best of luck to ya man. dont forget to check simple stuff like the connectors for the wheels speed sensors because the locking tabs break easily and it just might be enough to cause this as well.

Sonic-Blue-GT

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 7, 2012

Thanks for the replies. I am crossing my fingers hoping it is just a sensor. But if it is the module then it is what it is. It shouldn't be that big of a deal I will just take my time and not force anything.

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Anabolic

· #8 · Apr 8, 2012

have the ABS scanned.

if the light's on there IS a code.. if there's no code try another scanner applicable to your application because THERE IS a code
go from there, if it's a bad wheel bearing or what the code reader will tell you, don't mess wirth the module yet and put more stress on yourself.

a regular auto repair shop shoul dhave the scanner.
no need to get ripped off by good ole' ford some more

RadRacer82

· #9 · Apr 8, 2012

Anabolic said:
have the ABS scanned.

if there's no code try another scanner applicable to your application because THERE IS a code
go from there

What do these words mean?

Anabolic, go to your repair shop and ask them if they have anything that can read your mustang's ABS system.

Sonic-Blue-GT

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 13, 2012

So I went to a couple places today to get my code scanned. I tried Ford $100 so I didn't get it there. Went to autozone and it came up with error when he tried to read it. He sent me to a mechanic with another obd2 scanner and same thing it was an error. The mechanic said that there was something not letting him check the abs codes. He said he could check everything else. He told me he would have to run a full diagnostic to figure out why he couldn't pull a code. So at this point I am thinking of just trying to fix the module since the light is not always on. If push comes to shove I will just leave it as is and learn to live without abs and traction on most of the time. I guess its less fun that way but saves me money on tires! I'm not sure what to do though.

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RadRacer82

· #11 · Apr 13, 2012

It's up to you, it's not like you're in grave danger with the way it is now. The only change is that your car will brake slightly less efficiently in certain conditions.

There's been generations of cars prior to ours without ABS...

That light might drive ya nuts if ya know what i mean!

Have you tried cleaning your wheel sensors yet? I'm pretty sure you can also use a multimeter to try to get a reading on them to see if they're bad too.

gnr_70

· #12 · Sep 8, 2012

Hello

I have the ABS light on, was intermittent for a while, now it is on all the time...your info is very helpful! I want to repair my Mustang myself to save some $, where is the CONTROL MODULE PUMP located and is there a special precaution when replacing the old with the new? Thank You.

RadRacer82 said:
The Bosch 5.3 EBTCM module (ABS computer) is known to develop a loose connection on the inside of the device. It's not just our year mustangs either, it's affects several dozen other car makes and models that use this type module to control the ABS and Traction Control systems.

Initial Symptoms include the ABS light coming on occasionally then turning off. Eventually the frequency of the light coming on will increase until it finally stays on almost all the time (this happened to me and it stayed on 99.9999% of the time except for the coldest days of the year) until finally I researched and confirmed it was the module by bringing it to a Ford dealership and they used their special computer to try to communicate with it and pull a code, but it was unable to. They said the module needed to be replaced, quoted me $855.05 for the part (still have the estimate sitting on the desk behind me).

I found out because it's a common problem there's repair shops out there that will fix the module if you detach it and ship it to them.
Found this guy on Ebay:
EBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Didn't even pay him the full price either, I offered him $80.00 and he accepted. Used the Youtube video as a guide to detach the module (in the ad) and successfully got it fixed. My ABS and Traction Control work fine now.

Total Cost= $80.00 + $11.85 shipping + 3 hours labor total of my weekend time
:bigthumbsup

Sonic-Blue-GT

Discussion Starter · #13 · Sep 9, 2012

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=/&gl=US

This is how to replace it.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App

gnr_70

· #14 · Sep 9, 2012

ABS Light

Went to a local shop here in San Jose, CA...$40.00 to have it diagnosed, compared to the Ford dealership who was charging 100$.

Anyway, the Control Module was the culprit. The shop called several vendors, and only the dealer had it in stock. Ford dealership was asking for 620$ for the module. OUCH! I passed on it, since as everyone agrees on, cars from previous years did not have ABS and the brake still works. I'll try my luck for a used ABS Control Module at the local junkyard first....:gringreen

Also, how do I determine if my '00 GT Automatic has NON TRACTION or TRACTION CONTROL in order determine which control module to buy? Any suggestions is really appreciated. Thanks all.

gnr_70 said:
I have the ABS light on, was intermittent for a while, now it is on all the time...your info is very helpful! I want to repair my Mustang myself to save some $, where is the CONTROL MODULE PUMP located and is there a special precaution when replacing the old with the new? Thank You.

SoCal2V

· #15 · Sep 9, 2012

Does your car have the TC button? If so then it is (or was, when the abs was functional) equipped with TC.

My abs light has been on and no abs or tc since before I bought my car. There was a time when I intended to deal with it and get it fixed, but honestly as time goes on I find myself caring less. One of these days I'll probably "fix" it by removing the light from the cluster. The TC is little more than a nuisance that most people turn off permanently with a tuner, and I'm pretty good at making the car stop under a variety of conditions without causing the wheels to lock up.

Off topic, but gotta ask about your screen name... Wouldn't happen to be a reference to a certain kick ass band would it?

mwc

· #16 · Sep 17, 2012

I'm not sure where to post this so here goes. I have an 03 GT. I think it was March my ball joint on passenger side broke. I fixed myself, and a couple of weeks later the other side broke.
When I was finished putting in new ball joints I started hearing a oooooh sound sometimes that sounded like it was coming from front passenger side wheel. Only thing I could find was caliper seemed to be dragging. I put new caliper on and sound seemed to go to back wheel and ABS light would come on sometimes, it never stays on more than 4 or 5 miles. I do mostly rural driving. A couple of times my trac control dash light has also come on. I think both problems are related to the sound I am hearing but I cant figure it out. The sound and ABS light don't come on every day and I don't notice a difference in braking when the light is on. The sound is more common at 30 mph or less, ABS 50 or so. Today the light was on and when it went off I thought I heard a click sound in rear wheel on passenger side. I've had that wheel and brakes off to see if I could find anything. Brake pads are ok and caliper seems to work fine. I'm not sure what the gear behind the wheel hub is but if I had to guess I would guess that is the area the click came from today.

Got a little long but I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks

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GT2012

· #17 · Mar 9, 2017

Traction Control/ ABS Light on Simultaneously - 2012 Mustang GT

Hello,

I had this issue and just had it resolved. I just got my car back the other day. My traction control light and ABS light were coming on at the same time.
To make a long story short, I was hit by a deer and had the body work done. They checked into the light and ordered and replaced the tire rack. After that,
the lights were still coming on so I took it back. This time they recalibrated the tires. Same thing, a few days go by and the light comes back on. So finally
they refer me to the dealership. After the dealership made several calls to the Ford hotline, they said it was sending codes to the module that did not exist! So they said
bring it back if it comes on again. Sure enough, a few days later it's back on. This time they noticed that the left front tire was a different size tire than the other
three tires! They replaced the tire and sure enough, it worked like a charm. I'm not sure if other peoples fix will be this easy, but check that first.

So, after all was said and done the insurance paid for:
damage to vehicle
tire rack
calibration of tire

I'm not sure how much this would have cost out of pocket, maybe $2500 ?

My out of pocket expense was the Pirelli tire, $248 after installation, tire balance and labor.

This went on for several months. I'm putting this out there so the next person will have an idea on what to tell the dealership what to look for. I know most of us
dread going to the dealership, but they did get it repaired after 3 trips!

Hope this helps.

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