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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the deal. I haven't been real happy with my car's 60' times lately. They are usually in the 1.8 range with some 1.9's and 1.7's thrown in. I wouldn't care if they were always 1.8's as consistency is more important to me than getting the fastest time possible, but they are varying too much.

At first I was blaming the tires (bias ply ET streets) as they do have over 150 passes on them and are nearing the end of their life. I've come to the conclusion that the blame may not lie completely with the tires though.

I am still able to pull the wheels (a little) on launch and in looking at some good pictures taken by our track photographer I can see some pretty good wrinkling of the tires, so it seems they are still able to stick, at least initially.

What I think is happening is the tires are sticking at first but the front end is coming down too fast and unloading them a short distance from the start, causing them to spin. This would also be why I have a picture with my left front wheel off the ground as I hit second gear. The front end is acting like a pogo stick bouncing around with abandon.

I think I've got the rear suspension well covered with Baseline Suspension pro launch kit, MM extreme duty LCA's, Strange 10 way shocks, an ARB and SFC's, but the front suspension is all stock. The struts were on the car when I got it and probably have a zillion miles on them.

I'd like to get a pair of Strange 10 way struts for my car ASAP, which might still be a while with my budget. Will these give me the ability to tune this problem out? I'm not clear on exactly how they work. Can I adjust both how fast the front rises and how fast if falls or do the two go hand in hand? In other words if it goes up faster, will it also come down faster? Can they be set for a fast rise and slow fall?

Since the car is primarily a race car and I don't much care about ride quality in it's limited street use would I be better off buying a set of Lakewood 90/10's? Those are specifically designed for fast rise slow fall aren't they?

I won't be making any changes till this winter but am gathering information so I can make informed choices. I briefly considered putting my limited funds into a good set of heads because I know I could go a lot faster with them, but in the end I also know that for a bracket car it's more important to spend the money on something that will allow a more consistent launch rather that just going faster. For what the heads would cost I can get the struts, go coilover and maybe tubular K member and A arms, thereby removing a lot of front end weight.

So educate me on the struts as I know very little about them.
 

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With the 10-ways, when you turn the knob, it adjusts how fast it comes up and how fast it goes down.

So it would do exactly what you are looking for!

As for the heads vs. k-member setup. For your particular use, i'd get the tubular front suspension because you dont need to be crazy fast, unless you just have a number in your head that you want to run. And the lighter front end will also make you faster.

But might i suggest you not use a QA1 k-member and A-arms. They set the front wheels way forward and stick out of the wheel wells a bit. Me and my dad had to do a bit of fabrication work to get it to sit the way we wanted. I'd suggest UPR as I have heard great things about them.
 

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with the strange struts,the knob controls both settings..the stiffer you turn it,the slower the rise/slower fall..

i think you're better off going with a tad softer spring up front,then using the strut to control it..

mine for example..i had the fronts on 2(soft)..after watching some vids,i noticed my front end falling back down really quick after the initial weight transfer..so i went one click stiffer to 3..this dropped my 60's from 1.66 ish down to 1.62 ish on a regular basis

its too late in the season right now to do too much messing with my suspension,but the next t&t id like to try some other stuff

im runnign a 14-150 front spring..im thinking with the car being as light as it is(lighter than i had orginially thought it would be) i should have went 130 up front,and if they were a tad on the soft side,just use a stiffer strut setting

that being said,people are doing good things with 12" springs vs the common 14" recommendation these days,but you'd have to let a suspension guru advise better on that choice

you'd obviously have to play around and see what works best for your car,but i'd go with the 10ways over the lakewoods
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One of my friends at the track was telling me that I should get double adjustable struts which allow the rise and fall to be set independent of each other. I'd never even heard of double adjustable struts, but researched them online. They better be good as they're $320 each!

Strange 10 ways seem to be what most of the Mustang guys are using so maybe that's the best way to go. I'll keep gathering information before I spend any money.

I was looking at the tubular K members and A arms at MM's website as I have their SFC's and LCA's and was impressed with the quality of both. Good parts sure aren't cheap!

Oh well this is all for a winter project anyways. Right now the racing is going well and the car is staying together so the old "if it 'aint broke don't fix it" seems to apply.
 

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you'll need to look into the fitment of the strange struts on your pre-87 spindles..from what i've seen,the pre-87 spindles are a tad wider than the 87-later where the struts mount..im pretty sure they can be ground or machined(probably cheap like $25??)

the 87-later spindles should bolt right in..but.. im not sure if your brakes will fit the later spindles...ol' snowball effect..you know how that goes!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm aware that the Strange struts are not a direct fit on the pre-'87's but have been told a little work with a grinder is all that's needed. The holes are supposed to be off by 3 mm and the mounting pads are 1/8 inch too thick. A couple guys on another forum have assured me they can be modified rather easily.

I don't want to change the spindles as I have no desire to go 5 lug and that's the main reason people change them.
 
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Making the 10ways fit on a pre 87 car is a walk in the park....

only a minimal amout of grinding is needed......

so did you order them yet.......:rollgrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Making the 10ways fit on a pre 87 car is a walk in the park....

only a minimal amout of grinding is needed......

so did you order them yet.......:rollgrin:
Thanks for confirming it's an easy mod. Tools of destruction like grinders, saws and torches are my favorites. I feel sure I can make them fit. Sometimes parts don't see it my way initially, but in the end they will obey!

I wish I could order them now. If only I were rich instead of handsome! :gringreen
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not saying a word you make it way to easy........:rollgrin::rollgrin::rollgrin:
Hey I'm lobbing them to ya. Go ahead and swing!
 

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OK guys. Guess I'm behind the curve on these 10 way adjustable. Do they actually control the valving ratio like an 80/20 for example, or just remain a 50/50 ratio and just gets softer or firmer based on the setting? :eek:nline2long: Hope u understand what I'm trying to say.
 
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OK guys. Guess I'm behind the curve on these 10 way adjustable. Do they actually control the valving ratio like an 80/20 for example, or just remain a 50/50 ratio and just gets softer or firmer based on the setting? :eek:nline2long: Hope u understand what I'm trying to say.
they do actually to control the valving......

they are not a 50/50 base setting with (+/-) controls

That what them so great the settings are infinite......
 

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they do actually to control the valving......

they are not a 50/50 base setting with (+/-) controls

That what them so great the settings are infinite......
That's awesome to hear... Sounds like another product that allows you to eat your cake and have it to...
 
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