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adjusting valves

1037 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  kenash
ok ive read all the post about adjusting valves. I have a hydraulic lifters and roller rockers. asking how others adjust theirs. I set mine at zero lash then half turn and had no compression so I left it at zero lash. compression before zero lash and after is 140-145 for each cylinder. cant load video but its on my profile. that's before I set them.
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Shawn, That's strange, no compression unless you set them at "O" lash.

This first thing that jumps out are
-Collapsed Lifters
-You have Solid lifters and not hydraulic
-Not at base circle of cam lobe when adjusting the lifter

Have you thought of adjusting them while the engine is running? its a little messy but a very common method. You could cut out the top of an old valve cover giving access to the lifter adjustment and use that to avoid a mess while its running to adjust your lifters
Shawn, I know you understand Ivy's response and explanation. You should also keep in mind that you are using Rhoads lifters which will "leak down" quicker than a conventional hydraulic lifter so you need to get the RPM's up when adjusting these. Rhoads lifters are designed for higher rev engine and cam profiles for higher RPM's.

I know you say you just painted the engine bay area and don't want to mess it up but if you cut the top out of an old valve cover so you can adjust it under RPM's, you should be fine. If you really want to adjust it with the crank static, then when your at the bottom of the lob base, loosen the rocker. Push down on the push rod into the lifter to make sure it springs back and is not collapsed. screw the rocker down by hand until the push rod touches the rocker and there is no play (zero lash) aside from the lifter spring. (make sure you can still push the push rod down into the lifter). Turn the polylock another 3/4 turn max for preload and set the lock (set screw).

The engine running method is really the better way to go.
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