You're trading a 2012 for a 2012, why would your aftermarketmparts not be compatible? I have a manual but I've read quite a few articles that say the auto is quicker in the 1/4. I don't race so didn't matter to me. I got the stick for the fun factor.
Advice on trading in the stang
After driving the stang for over a year ive decided that i regret getting the auto and might trade it in for a used 2012 mt-82 v6. My only concern is that ive already put a good amount of money into upgrades(listed in signature), which brings me to my question. Should i put the stock parts on and try to sell the aftermarket parts that arent compatible or should i try to use them as leverage at the dealer, or maybe a private sale on craigslist? Any help is appreciated.
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I highly doubt the dealership is going to give you anything close to what you spent on aftermarket parts. Bring it back to stock, then figure out if you want to transfer the parts or sell them.
What were you going to do with the stock parts if you left all the aftermarket stuff on?
What were you going to do with the stock parts if you left all the aftermarket stuff on?
Some dealers will want to give a little less in trade for "custom" cars because they say they will have to find a customer who likes the changes that were made. Keep your parts and return to stock. If you had a gear change before you're going to want one again. Why spend money twice on the same items?
The only thing I don't think will transfer is the driveshaft... unless the auto and manual shafts are the same? The cai and gears I will transfer.
Out of curiosity are you doing the gear change yourself? If you have a tune you might want to put it back to stock just to avoid the dealership voiding the warranty when you go to trade it in. I have a 12 V6 manual with 2.73's and am interested in changing the gears also.
Definitely no leverage at the dealership with the aftermarket parts on it. You are going to be loosing money no matter which option you choose on those parts.
Now, as far as the car cost goes, you could possibly break even buying a used manual transmission 2012 Mustang. It depends on your credit rating, how much you put down on the car originally, what interest did you get on the auto Mustang financing with what you would get now for the manual interest-wise.
Trading in your 2012 auto Mustang may get you only around $18000, while purchasing a used manual 2012 Stang will likely cost you more. Is moving to a manual really worth it?
Now, as far as the car cost goes, you could possibly break even buying a used manual transmission 2012 Mustang. It depends on your credit rating, how much you put down on the car originally, what interest did you get on the auto Mustang financing with what you would get now for the manual interest-wise.
Trading in your 2012 auto Mustang may get you only around $18000, while purchasing a used manual 2012 Stang will likely cost you more. Is moving to a manual really worth it?
I won't be installing my own gears and I will return it to stock for sure.Out of curiosity are you doing the gear change yourself? If you have a tune you might want to put it back to stock just to avoid the dealership voiding the warranty when you go to trade it in. I have a 12 V6 manual with 2.73's and am interested in changing the gears also.
Perfect credit score and purchased the mustang outright didn't take out loans or anything. As far as whether its worth it that's why I made a thread, for opinions on the idea.Definitely no leverage at the dealership with the aftermarket parts on it. You are going to be loosing money no matter which option you choose on those parts.
Now, as far as the car cost goes, you could possibly break even buying a used manual transmission 2012 Mustang. It depends on your credit rating, how much you put down on the car originally, what interest did you get on the auto Mustang financing with what you would get now for the manual interest-wise.
Trading in your 2012 auto Mustang may get you only around $18000, while purchasing a used manual 2012 Stang will likely cost you more. Is moving to a manual really worth it?
How much stop-and-go traffic do you sit in? If the answer is more than an hour a day, five days a week I wouldn't trade it in.
But I can relate to wanting to trade it in for standard transmission. It's a completely different driving experience. I would go for it.
But I can relate to wanting to trade it in for standard transmission. It's a completely different driving experience. I would go for it.
Auto is quicker on the strip and stick is quicker on the street. Why you letting that bug you? A tuned auto or geared auto will kill a manual
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Dude... just keep the auto, trading for a used manual car is a stupid idea anyways.
Why don't you just put a turbo on the car you have now! The money you will loose in trading your car will pay for most of it. If you get a stick you 'll need to get an aftermarket shifter, the stock one isn't up to the job under stress.
......................WHY.
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The reason I want to is for the fun factor. I couldnt care less about track times. My (probably) unrealistic mind thought was an auto is worth more then a manual so I might be able to get a straight trade and then sell the drive shaft to help pay for a manual one?
Please... keep your car.The reason I want to is for the fun factor. I couldnt care less about track times. My (probably) unrealistic mind thought was an auto is worth more then a manual so I might be able to get a straight trade and then sell the drive shaft to help pay for a manual one?
You can thank me later.
only way i could see is a used 5.0 or a new 2013 v6....
if you get 18k for your car then fork over another 6k (hypothetically maybe you can find a used 5.0 around... or just finance the 6k which shouldnt be terrible).
if you get 18k for your car then fork over another 6k (hypothetically maybe you can find a used 5.0 around... or just finance the 6k which shouldnt be terrible).
Just make sure if you do it, it is a very low milage car, and the shifting is crisp, issue free. I would hate to see a thread about you trading in your car for another one with a horrible shifting mt-82, lol.
As far as I can tell the reports are rather small, but at the time I got my stang, the bad PR on the tranny was a deciding factor, as well as the horrible traffic around here. Most ppl I know fixed any and all issues with aftermarket parts. Personally I would just trade one in for a new 2013 instead of a car someone could have possibly dawged out.
As far as I can tell the reports are rather small, but at the time I got my stang, the bad PR on the tranny was a deciding factor, as well as the horrible traffic around here. Most ppl I know fixed any and all issues with aftermarket parts. Personally I would just trade one in for a new 2013 instead of a car someone could have possibly dawged out.
Trade in your Auto v6 for a manual 5.0. Increased fun factor all around, then sell all your mods and buy new mods for the 5.0. I don't know about in your area, but in Southern Cali Premium 5.0s with 8k miles are going for 26k sticker.
G
I think you're underestimating the costs of what you're about to do. Dealer is going to give you $14-15k for your car, then you'll spend about $18k for a manual. THEN you get to pay TTL, another $1,500. So you're going to spend about $5k just to go to a manual. In monthly payment, every $1k financed is $20 a month. So you're adding $5k in debt and $100 to your monthly payment.The reason I want to is for the fun factor. I couldnt care less about track times. My (probably) unrealistic mind thought was an auto is worth more then a manual so I might be able to get a straight trade and then sell the drive shaft to help pay for a manual one?
All of that sounds like a terrible idea. If you want to do all this, look for a used GT.
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