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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, just looking for some advice from those of you that have had some experience with this. I have a 66 coupe with a 289 that was running fine and driven into a shop 12 years ago and parked. It has 55k miles on it. It has not been moved one inch since. I have cleaned up the car and changed the fuel tank and rad hoses and put new tires on it. The motor is seized, it will not turn by using a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley nor will the starter spin it over. I changed all of the plugs and the old ones were Autolite originals. I also changed the oil and filter and the oil that came out was a full 5ish quarts and did not look bad at all.

Does anyone have a trick or suggestion to free up the motor without pulling the motor out of the car? It did not need to be rebuilt so I would hate to remove it if not needed.

Thanks for reading the long post, I wanted to give as much detail as possible.
 

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Pull the plugs and squirt some transmission fluild in the cylinders and let it sit for a while then try to break it loose again...may work, may not. Be sure if it pops loose to run a compression check to make sure the rings still seat. My guess is you'll probably have to rering it.
 

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^ great advice.

Since it's sat that long I'd also pull the valve covers and squirt oil on the rockers, shafts and pushrods and also pull the distributer and spin the oil pump by hand or drill and prime the motor with oil before trying to turn it over. Alot of parts may be dry after sitting for over a decade.
 

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other than the tranny oil, i have had good luck with marvel mystery oil. like said earlier, let it sit for a bit than work it by hand.. good luck !
 

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There is another product called "PB Blaster" that comes in an aerosol can. Spray it down into the spark plug holes every few hours, when ever you think about it, and continue doing this for a couple of days. It should help to break it loose.

You'll need to prime the oil pump. Take a 1/4" socket and tape it securely to a long extension, so that it doesn't come off and fall into the sump, and install it into an electric drill. Spin the pump counterclockwise until you see oil coming out of the pushrods. This will lube all of the bearing journals as well as the lifter guides. Some of the hydraulic lifters won't get primed because they're not positioned where their oil ports will lube them,(the ones holding the valves open), but they'll prime after the engine gets turned over. Because of this you may not see oil coming out of all of the pushrods when you prime it

My best guess is that the aluminum pistons may have swollen a bit from corrosion. With some patience the engine should break loose.

Don't put too much torque on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer. You don't want to snap the bolt. It's best to use a tool that will bolt to the balancer itself. These tools have a provision to use a socket on them.

You'll need to replace all of the rubber hoses, fuel and vacuum. The vacuum advance canister that's on the distributor has a rubber diaphram in it that may be ruptured too. You won't have any vacuum timing advance if it's gone bad. Also check to see that the centrifical timing advance weights aren't frozen in the dist. To check, rotate the rotor slightly CCW, it should snap back to it's original position easily.

Getting the carb rebuilt is going to be a must, after all of these years. Any rubber components in there are going to be shot. The small orifices in it may be clogged too.

Don't forget to check out the transmission. I'd change out the fluid, if automatic, or the lube, if manual. Sometimes the clutch disc may be frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate, so be aware of this when checking out the clutch operation, if equipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all for the great ideas.

I do plan to replace anything worn out and get it back to 100% but I am worried for now that it may have been damaged from sitting so long. I will try the stuff in the cylinders this weekend and spinning the oil pump with the drill for starters. I really hope the rings are not shot, i would like to be able to drive it around for a little while at least while I have my other coupe down for a restoration. I will have to look for one of those crank tools so I don't break the bolt off too. Would they have that at a parts store like NAPA or is it a specialty thing?

I will let you know what happens on it next week.
 

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Hi,

I just wanted to ditto the transmission fluid down the spark plug holes. An old mechanic told me this once and it worked for me; he told me to leave it sit overnight and put the plugs back in (finger tight) and then remove and try to turn the motor over.

I will say this: If you get it to turn over by hand, leave the plugs out and give it a good cranking with the starter. This will throw out the oil from the cylinders. Clean the plugs of oil, replace, and then try to start it up.

If you get it going, it will smoke like a grassfire for a while, until you burn off all the oil from the cylinders and what's been coughed up into the exhaust. So let it run a good half hour or so to get to full heat and burn it off.

Good luck, and do keep us posted. If it was running when it was parked, I bet you get it going again!

Michael
 

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My dad used paint thinner once and it worked really well. blew smoke for about 3-5 minutes but after that the car ran like a champ for years until i sold it. Good Luck
 
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