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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody installed one of these yet?? I got under the car went to the o2 sensor next to the cat and looked at it and saw the 4 wires, I sliced the grey one and connected the gauge to it. My guage is reading LEAN, I mean it only lights up one bar on the whole thing. When I floor it It goes too two bars. Did I hook it up to the wrong o2 sensor or do I need new spark plugs already?? I got the ATI Procharger on it and when I dynoed it they said I was at 10.0 AFR.

2005 Mustang GT, Dynoed 447rwhp
 

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10.0 sounds low! I'm not sure what they are suposed to be at with the S/C... I'd be careful, it cannot be a safe tune!

And you have the fuel upgrades, pump, injectors, and a good tune?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
From what I hear 10.0 isn't going to cause no serious damage, Maybe foul spark plugs or o2 sensors, It's better then 14.0 or something (That is what I was told atleast). I still run the stock fuel pump and I have the 39# injectors. I got the base SCT Tune with no adjustments. I got X-Cal 1 so I can't make any changes to the tune or anything. I need to get my own wideband and X-Cal 2. I guess those will be my next toys to purchase!!! I just got my tokico adj shocks/struts so I will be installing those today.
 

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I called Ken and am waiting to hear back on that A/F ratio... It is a 'safe' tune but in addition to the mentioned parts there is the valves... Obviously you get enough fuel without the fuel pump upgrade... I was told to get a Boost-A-Pump... Where you dyno, can't they tune for you?

Where did you get the Tokicos? I've been looking for those! Are they on yet? You likie? What other suspension parts do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I live in hawaii and just last night I found somebody who says they can tune so I will be headed up there to see if they can today. I am probably going to pay 3x more then I should but I always do on this island.

For the Tokico go to www.stangsuspension.com !!!! I got the tokico WAY CHEAPER THEN ANY PLACE!!!!. I love them too!!!!! I installed them yesterday and raced my budddy's ninja 636 and he BARELY beat me. Not to mention my supercharger was a bit heatsoaked plus I had all tools and car parts in the trunk so if I had cold motor correct tune and no parts in the back I would of been dead even with him.
 

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Tunes with at least three dyno runs (with tuning inbetween) run about $120 here in the mid west...

Le'me know how it went! Good luck!
 

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I beleive you have it hooked into the wrong wire. There are four wires. One for heater power, one for heater ground, those two are easy to figure out. The last two wires are a yellow with a tracer that I can't remember and a red with a black tracer and that is the signal wire you are looking for. It sounds like you have it hooked to a ground, the A/F gauge is basically a voltmeter that read the O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks!! This is what I saw when I hooked it up, 4 wires cause it is heated, 2 white, one black, one grey... That is the o2 by the cat, I seen another one by the headers and don't know if thats the one I should put into or not
 

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Discussion Starter #9
okay I just got out from under my car, the o2 sensor wires have 4... 2 white, 1 grey 1 black, but it's short and goes right into a connector and from there you have 1 red, 1 yellow, 1 grey and 1 really dark grey colorish, I tapped into all 4 of those and my guage sat at 1 bar rich like it wasn't working at all... I'm really lost and no idea what to do!!! Has anybody got them to work?!?!?!
 

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You want to hook it into the O2 sensor in the manifold or headers and make sure you hook it into the harness side incase you need to change and O2 sensor someday. The car needs to run a minute or two to go into closed loop before the sensor will start working. I have an air/fuel gauge installed on my car and it workes fine. I tapped into the wiring on the drivers side harness.
 

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You realy need a wide band a/f gauge. You sound like you are using a narrow band gauge.You will never be able to get a good reading with that. Dyno jet and AEM both make a wide band kit. The narrow bands are nothing more than a light show.
 

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botlefedpony said:
You realy need a wide band a/f gauge. You sound like you are using a narrow band gauge.You will never be able to get a good reading with that. Dyno jet and AEM both make a wide band kit. The narrow bands are nothing more than a light show.
That's what I was told too from the guys in the know how... Yes, it will show you lean or rich but is not very exact... Then if you want a wideband unit you might as well go with one that can do everything... these are kinda pricey and maybe not neccessary in a 'not racer'...?? I got boost and fuel pressure which will show me that all is okay to get on it. As I'll know I have a safe tune (from tuning and data logging on the dyno and driving) I'll know that if the boost and fuel press is in range all is good to get on it! One is off I'll take it easy, look that all 'externals'; Vortech, Boost-A-Pump, filter etc. is in good working order... If all that is good I'll take the X-Cal-2 to it and hopefully see where the problem is...

Sorry long text... I guess what I'm saying is that if your fuel pressure and boost is good you're good to go assuming that you have a sound tune from the shop... too much air or too little fuel you're in trouble... you might get a red bar on your narrow band A/F but you'd see a drop in fuel pressure on a fuel press gauge sooner...

Here is a nice A/F unit!
http://www.modulardepot.com/index.php?cPath=21_48_90
 

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dynojet does everything that kit does,ite around 400.00 depending on where you get it from.Not knocking your set up or anything but........just a thought. ..........filter blows off blower........same fuel pres. no more boost,more air........lean out. injector gets cloged,same boost,same fuel pres......lean out.Not knocking you in any way but I have the procharger on mine,when it was getting tuned I was shocked in how little it took to change air/fuel. through every dyno pull we were flat lined at 11.2.Every thing looked great.after getting the car home and on the street we found the a/f was closer to 10.0(a tad rich) we found the hood pad was getting sucked into the cone filter.......the dyno runs were with the hood open. Would have never caught it without the dynojet gauge. We made 489 at the wheels so its moving some air through the filter. it was sucking it around the cone and cutting off air.the boost gauge still read 11 though the whole time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea that's a good point for everybody!!! The hood padding gets sucked into the air cleaner!! I took my padding off like 3 weeks ago cause I noticed it was stuck in the filter so I ripped mine off. I am just going to buy a wideband and install it, I don't want to blow anything up just yet.

Redfire you were right, I didn't let the car run long enough to get a reading, I just started the car and let it run for like 15 seconds and it was dead so I figure it was wrong.

Thanks for the help!!!! I need more money now lol.....
 

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Talked to Ken at MD today... 10.0 is very safe for the engine for a while, in the long run it can be very costly due to parts mentioned above... A good safe tune would be in the 11's, 11.5-12 for the most SAFE power...

The wideband I previously mentioned is 399 complete and suposedly the best you can get... it can also be used for datalogging if you wanna get even more hightech...

Great point on the hoodblankie beeing sucked in! Had never heard about that one! Tx!
 
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