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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my mustang died on me today. threw the codes P1152 and P0152. i just bought new O2 sensors. it idles terrible (needle jumps around from 350ish-800 RPM). what could be going wrong with it? ive heard O2 sensors (which i just changed), MAF, cam sensor, etc....
it also doesnt accelerate, and exhaust sounds like popping. i have no clue whats going on and need some help. im gonna shoot a video and post it up on you tube later or tomorrow to show you guys and maybe someone will know.
 

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Maybe I can help

Hey I noticed this thread and I am having this issue with my 1993 2.3 4 cyl. The problem with mine is that when the car gets warm the idle gets really low, almost like its going to stall and my engine light comes on randomly when this is happening. I'm getting an 02 sensor tomorrow and I'm going to put it in and see if it fixes my problem. (Maybe look into your fuel pump/fuel things, I had my whole fuel tank/pump replaced) It has the same symtoms as you are seeing but mine got so bad the car wouldn't start at all. (sounded like a popping noise too) Hope this helped out even though mine is a 2.3l. :bigthumbsup
 

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I would start by looking into the ignition parts, plugs, coils, etc. Sounds like there's either a spark or fuel issue, tho I'd bet on spark. The codee indicate a rich condition and a sensor problem, a bad O2 sensor can cause that, but so can a spark issue, the popping in the exhaust means that fuel isn't burning completely in the cylinder and is continuing to burn in the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
my dad thinks its the MAF
if it is the MAF that isnt working, can i run the car without it and if its running the same as it is now, would the MAF be the problem? i would hate to buy a bunch of parts for it and still have this problem. well i made a vid but the car idles fine in it. A/F ratio gauge does show its running rich, so rich its off the gauge. will shoot another video tomorrow when i drive it to show how bad the idle is.
 

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I doubt its the MAF, but if you disconnect it the car won't run, or if it does it'll run like s**t, tey usually don't go bad, ford made them pretty well.
 

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eddyroxx:

Did the poor operation problem start with the new O2 sensors? OEM Ford O2 sensors are highly recommended. If you installed a different brand then the sensors may not be compatible (so you'll have to get the right ones).

Next, clean your MAF. The K&N filter may have let a little oil pass and contaminate the MAF sensor (hot wire anemometer, if you want the details). You can buy MAF cleaner (spray can) or you can take the sensor out and CAREFULLY swap it with 90% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-Tip. Don't break the wires. They are very, very thin and very, very brittle.

Are there any other codes? Any exhaust work done recently? Air getting into the exhaust ahead or near the O2 sensors will cause a lean condition.

Check the wiring at the O2 sensors. If you have a broken or bare wire or pinched wire, the sensor will not function properly and this will generate a code.

Back to the O2 sensors: if you can datalog O2 sensor voltage, you should see them switching between 0 to 0.1 and 0.9 VDC. The frequency should be even on both sides and the two sides should follow each other. If they are slow to respond or one is "flat-lining" then there is something wrong with that sensor or the wiring serving it.

Chris
 

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Spark

I would start by looking into the ignition parts, plugs, coils, etc. Sounds like there's either a spark or fuel issue, tho I'd bet on spark. The codee indicate a rich condition and a sensor problem, a bad O2 sensor can cause that, but so can a spark issue, the popping in the exhaust means that fuel isn't burning completely in the cylinder and is continuing to burn in the exhaust.
I'm with you, racin366... I'm thinking its involving the coils, with the limited data we have.

We need more knowledge to judge, though.

OP: Was the car running well BEFORE the recent parts? Have there been modifications done recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i ran it today without the MAF and it ran better. i read this info from Ford Mass Air Flow Sensors

i replaced the o2 sensors with the same ford supplies. i believe they were motorcraft

the code i got before was P0152 (high voltage bank 2 sensor 1) thats why i changed the sensors

i am no longer running the k&n fipk because it did start giving me trouble after the 1st week of use. ive been running borla stingers since the beginning of this year and havent been getting problems from those.

im gonna borrow a MAF from a friend and if it runs better i know i need to get a new one.

so what do i do if im getting a high voltage? i know the volts is what makes it run rich or lean but i dont know how to fix that. i tapped the bank 1 sensor 1 wire for an A/F ratio gauge but its bank 2 thats coming up on the trouble codes.

right about know im guessing new sensors aren't going to fix the high voltage
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
video will be up soon
you tube is not up and running right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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eddyroxx:

Thanks for posting up your mods and the video. That's a rough-sounding engine at the moment, lol. Good choice on Motorcraft O2 sensors!

If the MAF has failed, it should cause a CEL and the computer will run off a map (so your car can limp along OK -- not great, just OK). It is more likely that the MAF element (the part that is inserted into the plastic housing) is dirty from oil carryover from the K&N. This is fairly common with oiled filters and it is easy to fix (see previous post).

The next thing you can try is what "racin366" and "tripleblack" have suggested: hunt for an ignition problem, likely to be a failing coil-on-plug (COP). Pull a COP off, one at a time, and see if the idle changes. If it does then that COP is OK. If it does not then that COP is the problem.

Do you have access to a datalogger (like an XCal2 or Predator or similar)? Data will tell you quite a bit if you can get access to it.

Chris
 
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