[fastest95stang]

is the any kind of cable to ajust the cluch on a 89 lx 5.0?? if so where is it located.because the problem i am having is the clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedel is pushed down.and does not have much movement at all before it engages from the disengaged position.other wise everything works fine!..thanks a lot for any help

 

[speedytang]

Stock Mustang clutch you just pull up on the clutch pedal and the unit has plastic gears that adjust the cable. If it will not adjust anymore than your out of range and need either a new cable or get the adjustable kit for $89 which is the better choice.

 

[BadlandsGhost]

Stock Mustang clutch you just pull up on the clutch pedal and the unit has plastic gears that adjust the cable. If it will not adjust anymore than your out of range and need either a new cable or get the adjustable kit for $89 which is the better choice.

Yup on both counts. you should feel the pedal "ratchet" when you pull up on it. But if you dont and/or you can afford it, upgrading to an aluminum quadrant and (preferably) firewall adjuster is your best long term option.

Hope it helps,
J

 

[lxarlo]

www.maximummotorsports.com i got my clutch cable, quad, and firewall adjuster from them. along with a steel front bearing retainer, the clutch actuation is as slick as the greased up deaf guy on family guy.

 

[mustang8719]

I bought this kit from UPR Products for less than $100.00.
http://www.uprproducts.com/

Was easy to install and works great.

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

Adjustable cable + metal quadrant is the only way to go. I've busted two stock plastic ones and that was not fun at all to replace.

I love my steeda kit. That UPR ones looks excellent too.

 

[fastest95stang]

well thanks a lot guys there was no ratchet action happining at all with the stock clutch so i guess i would be better off to just replace it any way.hopefully it is not too hard to get to and change and all.keep the links and any other tips comming. thanks!!

 

[fastest95stang]

well i ordered the upr clutch quad today and will be installing it this weekend.(without too much trouble i hope).i will let ya'll know how it goes or if i need any help along the way.

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

When you make your final adjustments, there should be enough slack so you can push the clutch pedal down 2" before you feel any resistance.

 

[fastest95stang]

hey man thanks for the tip...everything helps..especially with me lol

 

[88 5ohh]

Just to kind of hitch myself onto this exsiting thread...
I have a firewall adjustable clutch cable w/a metal quadrant, Dont know which brand as it was already installed when I bought the car.
I currently have it as tight as it will go without sacrificing the inch or so endplay, and I cant even get my car to start properly.
The clutch just wont disengage even with the pedal all the way to the floor... This kind of just happend within about 10 miles of driving today for the first time in 4 months...

So how do you adjust and already adjusted cable?? lol.. I really need some help on this one guys... :sosad:

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

You loosen the nut on the clutch cable after it meets the clutch fork to create more slack.

 

[88 5ohh]

I think if anything I have TO MUCH slack... So can you also tighten said nut on the clutch cable after the clutch fork to REDUCE slack??

I got it out of first gear by messing around with the firewall adjuster... but it still wont engage or disengage anywhere near drivable conditions. Sigh... :sterb:

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

It's as simple as this

Too much slack = Tighten the nut
Not enough slack = loosen the nut.

It helps to put the firewall adjuster in the middle and get it close to where you want at the cable end. Then make any fine tune at the firewall.

 

[speedytang]

If your out of thread on the clutch fork and you have a firewall adjuster and it is maxed out then your cable has stretched to much and needs replaced.

 

[wonderbred2nded]

clutch doesn't ratchet

my clutch pedel will pull up but it doesn't make a ratcheting sound. Is this correct or is somthing wrong. I've been feeling the clutch slip latley so I am hoping an adjustment will do.

 

[88 5ohh]

Yes, upon closer inspection today the cable seems to be worn. I have no idea why, or how it was rubbing, or where... So this will be a seasonal replacement unless I can find the culprit.

I swear, I dont know why someone hasnt gone hydraulic. I know all the mustang purists will jump on me for saying that, but it just seems alot more practical then having to **** around with cables and ****... Not to mention the heavier pedal weight of aftermarket clutches.
Perhaps a new spring project is in order..

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

It's called $$$$

 

[88 5ohh]

Granted, a hydraulic set-up would take a bit of thinking, and probably double that in cash... but when you think about how much money the average stang owner spends on his ride, why wouldnt this be in the list of mods on more peoples cars??

Frankly, I dont see a disadvantage other then having to service the lines every so often, and the pain it would be to locate a spot to mount the slave cylinder.
The pluses would be less clutch pedal pressure = faster shifts... thats always a good thing!!

Anyone got a reason why hydraulic clutches are just crap?? Other then the obvious costs involved in retro-fitting one?? I am just at a loss as to why it hasnt been done... :dunce:

 

[speedytang]

The problem on the Fox would be room even using a street rod kit. If you went to manual brakes you would have the room and the line-tob-pedal assy will only set you back $250. I have used many kits and most are based off of the Nissan Pickup truck assy. I myself have 146k+ miles and my cable was still good but changed to adjustable cable because of my pressure plate was so stiff I figured the plastic adjuster would break.