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I was wondering..what would be some good mods..with some great HP gains..but not so expensive? Im putting on SLp loudmouths..ahhaha i no thats not gonna help much! I was looking towards steeda intake. They say it gives about 26 horse to the rear wheel.:winks WHat do u guys think?
 

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Has any one tried the Xcal2 with the tune or a CAI? I would really like to get some feedback on the Xcal2 with the flash from alternativeauto.

I just ordered a set of sway bars becuase the V6 suspension feels a bit mushy. I will post my impressions once they are installed

 

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I have the JLT CAI and the SCT 2 tune. And I must say:
:laughlitt:kooky::laughlitt:kooky::laughlitt:kooky::laughlitt:kooky::laughlitt
 

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I have the Xcal2 + Steeda CAI. I was able to feel the Steeda differance right away... Got it on Ebay for a lil bit cheaper then steeda.com w/free shipping and no tax... I will say, that I felt more actual power from the CAI then I did after I tuned it, but the tune gave me power, but a differant feel of power. Great power from both though.
 

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fishingjts said:
If I could only do one mod... it would be an SCT X-Cal2.... And if you do other mods... it comes in handy there too! Gear change, tires size change, datalogging...

But even just a "tune" will pick up some nice HP gains:

http://www.alternativeauto.com/prodserv/05mustang_tune.html
I second that! Easy choise! A pakage deal is good if you can afford it, CAI + Tune with XC2!
 

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Sean2005 said:
Has any one tried the Xcal2 with the tune or a CAI? I would really like to get some feedback on the Xcal2 with the flash from alternativeauto.

I just ordered a set of sway bars becuase the V6 suspension feels a bit mushy. I will post my impressions once they are installed
I bought my X-Cal2 from somewhere else... when I heard Alternative Auto was offering tunes for the V6 I immediately bought it.... Lidio made some adjustments for my MMR CAI (with tube). I think if you have a laptop you could probably collect some data and Lidio would be able to adjust for ANY CAI.... He is amazing to watch work! LOL!

As far as the tune itself... It was amazing! Especially the shifting! His 89 Octane tune shaved .25 off my 0-60 time over the 93 Octane tune I was running!

If you really want to feel comfortable give them a call... Lidio will explain/answer any question you might have! One thing though... they are still a little backed up from the Woodward Dream Cruise... Ask for Lidio... You'll most likely have to leave a message... but he WILL return your call... Just be patient! LOL!!! This guy really knows his stuff... (do a google on Lidio and Alternative and you'll see what I mean!!)

Here's Lidio's write on his V6 tune... including the before and after dyno graph...

http://www.alternativeauto.com/prodserv/05mustang_tune.html
 

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OMG!fishingjts nice Mods.1/4 = 14.922 at 90.43 in a V6!
Saw your vid at the track.........man you gave that guy a run for his money! Stang looks great.:worship

I didnt know Lidio broke into the 11's with that auto.Not posted on his website.
My jaw dropped when I saw that ET flash up.

Bookmarked your website.
I'll be watchin ya......yup:thumbsup :D
 

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Any good CAI that breathes alot of air "like the Steeda" will required you to buy an X-Cal or Diablo and re-tune the motor to trick the computer into running a richer fuel level...

If you don't re-tune, the Steeda CAI will trip the engine "check now" light...

All other CAIs the do not require a re-tune "DO NOT BREATHE" as much air therefore do not require a re-tune and make less horsepower...

HP Mods in order of importance:

1. A Quality CAI
2. A Re-tune from an X-Cal or Diablo
3. Underdrive Pullies
4. An Electric Water Pump
5. A Supercharger which will require you to change the underdrive pullies to stock again
6. Adding a supercharger withiout 39# injectors and a 90mm MAS Air will not generate the type of horsepower that the supercharger is built to deliver
7. A smaller pulley for the supercharger creates more boost
8. A freer flowing exhaust system with Race Cats

Hope this helps your HP!!!

Dave :eyebulge: :eyebulge: :eyebulge: :eyebulge:
 

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discofan said:
Any good CAI that breathes alot of air "like the Steeda" will required you to buy an X-Cal or Diablo and re-tune the motor to trick the computer into running a richer fuel level...

If you don't re-tune, the Steeda CAI will trip the engine "check now" light...

All other CAIs the do not require a re-tune "DO NOT BREATHE" as much air therefore do not require a re-tune and make less horsepower...

HP Mods in order of importance:

1. A Quality CAI
2. A Re-tune from an X-Cal or Diablo
3. Underdrive Pullies
4. An Electric Water Pump
5. A Supercharger which will require you to change the underdrive pullies to stock again
6. Adding a supercharger withiout 39# injectors and a 90mm MAS Air will not generate the type of horsepower that the supercharger is built to deliver
7. A smaller pulley for the supercharger creates more boost
8. A freer flowing exhaust system with Race Cats

Hope this helps your HP!!!

Dave :eyebulge: :eyebulge: :eyebulge: :eyebulge:
Dave,

You have many good points! Please let me clarify a few thins though...

We don't "trick the car into running richer" Fuel/Air is about the same, we're just telling the computer that it's okay to add fuel according to its new air readings received from the new MAS that comes with the CAI.

There is only one CAI out there that i KNOW will not require a tune and that's the K&N unit. There are a few more 'stating' that 'no tune is needed' but that seldomly works out, MMR and MAC comes to mind.

An important note/fact is that K&Ns CAI produce the HP without a tune! It is an awesome, well designed product, kudos to their R&D dep!
For an example: [please disregard my round numbers... and I'm using Steeda, could be anyones product!]
Tune on a stock car (less HP trap if there was one)= 15 RWHP
Steeda CAI = 15 RWHPs + a CEL (Check Engine Light)
Steeda CAI + Tune = 25 RWHP
K&N CAI = 15 RWHP
K&N CAI + Tune = + 25 RWHP
So now, who's product is better?

Hence a CAI should always come with a tune(-er), if you can only afford one of the two, or if you go step by step, start with a tuner!

The numbers we see online for the elec H2O pumps is balony! I saw an install and the following tunes and dyno runs, 3.2 RWHP!

A S/C with stock injectors is a very bad idea, you'd run lean, unsafe, or very underpowered for your aplication. The stock fuel pump is good but you'll need a Boost-A-Pump or similar to make sure you always have the pressure! Don't forget the fuel press gauge so you know you have it before steping on it!

If/when you pulley down your S/C you might need 60 lb injectors, a better pump and a fuel return system might be a good idea...

I will also make sure I have a forged bottom end before starting to blow in the two digit boost number... but that's maybe just me...??

Sorry guys... just felt I needed to put my .02 Euro Cents in, and Dave, didn't meen to be a jerk or to flame you, just add some info... :eyepoppin
 

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I probably went backwards, but i put the Steeda CAI in my car, and had it for a good 2 months before I bought my Xcal, and I never saw a CEL, or anything adverse as far as performance; Maybe I was lucky... haha. Listen to the experts on here :)
 

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Stangers said:
OMG!fishingjts nice Mods.1/4 = 14.922 at 90.43 in a V6!
Saw your vid at the track.........man you gave that guy a run for his money! Stang looks great.:worship

I didnt know Lidio broke into the 11's with that auto.Not posted on his website.
My jaw dropped when I saw that ET flash up.

Bookmarked your website.
I'll be watchin ya......yup:thumbsup :D
Thanks for the compliments!

Lidio's car is awesome! And he is such a great guy! I've learned SOOOOO much from him!

About the MMR not requiring a tune... I agree with KJ... we found that the MMR was pretty much goofing things up... Lidio can explain it better... but basically it was causing the car to run very lean and that's what was causing the increased performance... I think it was something like... the MMR flows more air than the computer thinks it's flowing??? Anyways Lidio took one look at the datalogs and knew right away something wasn't right! So he adjusted for it... Like i've said before his really knows his stuff!

And as far as my car.... hehehehe... hopefully in a couple weeks I'll be able to post some new times... or at least a new dyno graph... LOL!!!
 

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kj_cinci said:
Dave,

You have many good points! Please let me clarify a few thins though...

We don't "trick the car into running richer" Fuel/Air is about the same, we're just telling the computer that it's okay to add fuel according to its new air readings received from the new MAS that comes with the CAI.

There is only one CAI out there that i KNOW will not require a tune and that's the K&N unit. There are a few more 'stating' that 'no tune is needed' but that seldomly works out, MMR and MAC comes to mind.

An important note/fact is that K&Ns CAI produce the HP without a tune! It is an awesome, well designed product, kudos to their R&D dep!
For an example: [please disregard my round numbers... and I'm using Steeda, could be anyones product!]
Tune on a stock car (less HP trap if there was one)= 15 RWHP
Steeda CAI = 15 RWHPs + a CEL (Check Engine Light)
Steeda CAI + Tune = 25 RWHP
K&N CAI = 15 RWHP
K&N CAI + Tune = + 25 RWHP
So now, who's product is better?

Hence a CAI should always come with a tune(-er), if you can only afford one of the two, or if you go step by step, start with a tuner!

The numbers we see online for the elec H2O pumps is balony! I saw an install and the following tunes and dyno runs, 3.2 RWHP!

A S/C with stock injectors is a very bad idea, you'd run lean, unsafe, or very underpowered for your aplication. The stock fuel pump is good but you'll need a Boost-A-Pump or similar to make sure you always have the pressure! Don't forget the fuel press gauge so you know you have it before steping on it!

If/when you pulley down your S/C you might need 60 lb injectors, a better pump and a fuel return system might be a good idea...

I will also make sure I have a forged bottom end before starting to blow in the two digit boost number... but that's maybe just me...??

Sorry guys... just felt I needed to put my .02 Euro Cents in, and Dave, didn't meen to be a jerk or to flame you, just add some info... :eyepoppin
Dear Kj Cinci,

Point taken!! and thanks for the indepth explanation on the issue...

I will make sure that I have them install #60 injectors, a fuel pressure gauge and all other essential equipment before I plan on 450RWHP...

D
 

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discofan said:
Dear Kj Cinci,

Point taken!! and thanks for the indepth explanation on the issue...

I will make sure that I have them install #60 injectors, a fuel pressure gauge and all other essential equipment before I plan on 450RWHP...

D
No worries, my pleasure! I just didn't wanna sound like a BezWiz...!!

And on that note, 39# injectors will be good up to 10-12 PSI and well above 500 RWHP. At least I hope so as I'm planning on pulling 500 with those... :tongue

I have seen a Paxton with stock pump and 39# injectors pulling 345 but that was border line for the fuel pump to keep up so I guess that's the limit for the stock pump...?? (The guy ended up installing a stronger pump to be on the safe side.)

Don't foget to get a fuel pressure tap-in/adapter as there is none... The ZEX unit is very nice!

I didn't mention it before but a boost guage is also pretty much needed as you will need to know that is working too. With the Fuel press and boost in normal range you know fuel/air is in normal range. Many also get a F/A guage but I didn't... (Didn't want 3 guages in my A-pillar, boost and fuel press show 'the same', a good one (showing the mix) is pricey...)

There I go again rambling on... Good luck with your mods and keep us posted! I'll let you guys know how mine is coming as soon as I get it going... (Looong story why the wait...)
 

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Fishingts is right on with the SCT XCAL2. This has got to be the biggest bang for the buck in terms of mods and a great place to start. I bought mine from a very experienced tuner - VMP Tuning / Velocity Mustang Performance
-Phone 321-206-9369
-SCT Chips, Flashers, and Dynotuning on our in-house Dyno-Jet 224x
www.VMPTuning.com

Talk to Justin, he'll treat you right.. I had my car Dyno Tuned locally by Dan DeSio at http://www.pro-dyno.net/ Dan is also very savvy and was able to tweak my car with a custom tune loaded into the XCAL. It made quite a difference as you can see.
 

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rgensemer said:
Fishingts is right on with the SCT XCAL2. This has got to be the biggest bang for the buck in terms of mods and a great place to start. I bought mine from a very experienced tuner - VMP Tuning / Velocity Mustang Performance
-Phone 321-206-9369
-SCT Chips, Flashers, and Dynotuning on our in-house Dyno-Jet 224x
www.VMPTuning.com

Talk to Justin, he'll treat you right.. I had my car Dyno Tuned locally by Dan DeSio at http://www.pro-dyno.net/ Dan is also very savvy and was able to tweak my car with a custom tune loaded into the XCAL. It made quite a difference as you can see.
Nice curve, and nice power gain!

What's that drop in the middle?

Why is the tuned curve in MPH and not RPM?

I guess run 1 was better than run 2, did you tune it back or was it temp related?

PS. Please don't use that font, it's kinda obnoxious/pushy... thanks!
 

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First, thanks for your comment regarding the font. It actually looks good going in, but you are right, it may not display well on all computers. The bump is somehow related to the torque converter locking. If you look at the stock run, there is a similiar bump. My car has an auto transmission and I doubt you'd see that with a stick. Considering that my mods are not that radical, I was very pleased to see that much gain at the rear wheels. It's pretty obvious the mods pay off, especially when you compare my run to the bone stock run and that's why I included the stock graph for comparison.
 

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rgensemer said:
First, thanks for your comment regarding the font. It actually looks good going in, but you are right, it may not display well on all computers. The bump is somehow related to the torque converter locking. If you look at the stock run, there is a similiar bump. My car has an auto transmission and I doubt you'd see that with a stick. Considering that my mods are not that radical, I was very pleased to see that much gain at the rear wheels. It's pretty obvious the mods pay off, especially when you compare my run to the bone stock run and that's why I included the stock graph for comparison.
Thanks for the new font! :)

Oh, I knew about that one... yes the autos do that, think on the GT there is often two bumps...??

190 stock was not bad either! Can't rmember, sorry, feeel ignorant! But aren't those 220 stock? That's only a 15% loss...?? Same as a stick!??! I must be wrong, maybe they are 240...??
 
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